Well i need new shocks....
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 1
From: Gibbstown New Jersey
Well i need new shocks....
I have a 99 with the i guess the f55 option where i have 3 ride choices, Perf. Sport. And Touring
My front left is bad. Was told because i have this option i'm going to need something to disable it? Where can i get it? How much?
And what shocks should i Buy? I'm thinking z06 shocks should be more then enough for a street car?
THanks
My front left is bad. Was told because i have this option i'm going to need something to disable it? Where can i get it? How much?
And what shocks should i Buy? I'm thinking z06 shocks should be more then enough for a street car?
THanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 9,420
Likes: 8
From: Southern New Jersey, The wet part at the bottom
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Brian, F55 didn't come available until 2003. Your '99 has RPO F45 which I'm told can be (after the shocks have been replaced) turned off (tuned) with use of a Tech2. If you know someone with access to a Tech2 (maybe a friend working at a GM dealership) they should be able to do the deed. If not I'd call Chris, Doug, or (Mike69 the best contact person up there) at ECS who can no doubt help you with this.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: "It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Brian, F55 didn't come available until 2003. Your '99 has RPO F45 which I'm told can be (after the shocks have been replaced) turned off (tuned) with use of a Tech2. If you know someone with access to a Tech2 (maybe a friend working at a GM dealership) they should be able to do the deed. If not I'd call Chris, Doug, or (Mike69 the best contact person up there) at ECS who can no doubt help you with this.
The various aftermarket tuning programs cannot turn off the F45, it must be the GM Tech II tool.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 3
From: Hawaii
or..... you can do this (from a forum member):
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 1
From: Gibbstown New Jersey
And the Zs?
300 bucks is meh the car rides fine. I may just not replace it for awhile and save up till someone is selling the z06 shocks? Can anything bad happen? Just drove the car tonight feels fine took it on the highway everything runs perfect
300 bucks is meh the car rides fine. I may just not replace it for awhile and save up till someone is selling the z06 shocks? Can anything bad happen? Just drove the car tonight feels fine took it on the highway everything runs perfect
Life Time NCM #2196
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 82,596
Likes: 1,712
From: Converse TX
or..... you can do this (from a forum member):
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
That is pretty much how I did my change to Koni-FSDs several years ago and at the moment PFADTs coil overs are going on
Life Time NCM #2196
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 82,596
Likes: 1,712
From: Converse TX
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 1
From: Gibbstown New Jersey
I love this fourm
Lemme know. I'm not going to rush into buying new ones.
I know its bad because the tuner at rpm plugged his laptop into my car. and said hey. Your front left shock is bad
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 30,317
Likes: 165
From: Reading PA
Might as well get the C6 Z06 shocks for the best bang for the buck!
10313647 – Z06 Front Shocks
25819268 – Z06 Rear Shocks
Both sets of front and rear shocks (4) 236.28
For the kit on our website, use part number c6z06shocks under Chevrolet make.
10313647 – Z06 Front Shocks
25819268 – Z06 Rear Shocks
Both sets of front and rear shocks (4) 236.28
For the kit on our website, use part number c6z06shocks under Chevrolet make.