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After talking about repainting my hood/bumper for over a year, I'm finally ready to start. I could use some info on what grade of papers to use. Also, after doing some research, some people wet sand-dry sand, so what is the best route to take? I already have a small and large sanding block. I need to get some wax removal and paper.
My car has already been repainted by the previous owner, a shade darker then the original carmine red. Should I start out dry sanding w/320 to get the first layer off? Then move to a 600 or 800 wet to finish? My hood has several spider cracks and the bumper has one area where the paint was chipped off, about the size of a nickel. The original paint looks shiny, so I don't believe the paint on the bumper was prepped correctly. Thats why I feel I should sand the paint down to the original coat.
A local paint shop said they would repaint my parts. If I can get 90-95% of the body work done I can save about 600.00. And w/two kids in college, thats a big help.
Finally, once all the sanding is done, should I wash the parts w/warm water, let dry, then go over with a tack cloth?
There are tons of good books on body and paint, try Amazon. If you have spider cracks anywhere, you'll have to remove ALL the paint or they will return.
From: Lower, Slower Delaware, formerly from Mobtown, MD (Baltimore)
Originally Posted by leo97
After talking about repainting my hood/bumper for over a year, I'm finally ready to start. I could use some info on what grade of papers to use. Also, after doing some research, some people wet sand-dry sand, so what is the best route to take? I already have a small and large sanding block. I need to get some wax removal and paper.
My car has already been repainted by the previous owner, a shade darker then the original carmine red. Should I start out dry sanding w/320 to get the first layer off? Then move to a 600 or 800 wet to finish? My hood has several spider cracks and the bumper has one area where the paint was chipped off, about the size of a nickel. The original paint looks shiny, so I don't believe the paint on the bumper was prepped correctly. Thats why I feel I should sand the paint down to the original coat.
A local paint shop said they would repaint my parts. If I can get 90-95% of the body work done I can save about 600.00. And w/two kids in college, thats a big help.
Finally, once all the sanding is done, should I wash the parts w/warm water, let dry, then go over with a tack cloth?
Leo,
It seems to me that from the questions you're asking, you may be a little on the novice side. Lot of variations involved when prepping and painting. The secret to a good paint job is in the prep. IMO, you might want to leave it to the professionals. You may prep, they paint it, it doesn't turn out right, everybody's going to be pizzed.
I know from what I speak, I too pretty much did what you're doing years ago, I was not happy, didn't turn out good at all, could only blame myself. Good luck anyhow.
Don't be afraid to do this yourself. Sanding is something you'll get the hang of quickly. Buy a palm sander if you don't have one. The kind that use a quarter sheet of the standard square sheets they sell at hardware stores. That way every sheet of paper you buy can be folded into quarters and cut. It will save you lots on sandpaper $ (you'll need a lot). I usually start with 220 and dry sand the whole car. Remember you want to break the surface of the paint everywere on the car to provide a good base for the new coat that's coming. This is what's referred to as "scuff sanding" Anywhere you have cracks, chips or peels go the whole way to the down to the surface of the car. As mentioned above, you don't want to leave anuy of the old finish around cracks or chips. Once you've scuff sanded the whole car and gotten your imperfections out, I like to use a foam sanding block. They come in different grits. I would get maybe a 400 and an 800, and a bucket of water. Then, go over the whole car again and smooth everything out. Wet the sponge block frequently. Anywhere you sanded deep to get rid of scratches you'll want to feather the edges. Make sure the transition from the surrounding edges of the old scratch/crack is totally smooth and undetectable to touch as it blends back into the surrounding old finish. A little trick is to use some gray primer on those deep areas after you've sanded. You'll quickly see a "line" around any area that is not properly feathered in. When you're all done wash the car thoroughly, and blow out all the nicks and crannies with compressed air if possible. Lastly, get a tack cloth and rub the whole car down again. I use a little rubbing alcohol at this step just to dry up any last traces of water hiding. I think the pros use some sort of a solution but I don't know what it's called. Good luck, and don't forget a respirator mask!
Step 1 - Wash the panels to be sanded with water and dawn dish soap!
Any wax, chemicals etc. need to be eliminated 1st. If you don't, you'll sand them into the panel and paint problems can result.
Step 2 - Sand off the paint. I prefer a 6" DA sander with 120 grit. Move the DA as you sand and don't let it dig into the bare material. The nose should be sandend completely, no primer remaining, just clean urethane.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm just doing the hood and bumper. I don"t think this project is over my head. The older I get the more projects I'll try doing myself -I totally remodeled my bathroom, new sub floor new shower, tiled entire floor. I enjoy a challenge. And with any project you get that sense of accomplishment knowing you did it yourself. Thanks again for the help-this forum is great
From: The Great Truth: "There ain't no free lunch"
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
And a nice challenge it is...Hope you like sanding....Get a respirator for sure...prep is everything.....Might go to "Paint and body forum" for help, although it's not a very busy forum.....You can do it....Have fun