I am not trying to take any short cuts however I do not have the Kooks instructions because I bought them used. The way I tried last night was what George from Kooks suggested I do. I will unbolt both motor mounts next time. Thanks

 

unbolt both and pry the engine over towards the opposite side of which ever header your working on.. I don't know how your jacking up your engine, but I did mine with an engine hoist and it gave me plenty of flexibility to pry the engine a decent amount..

 

Here you go



Kooks Custom Headers
1997/2004 C5 Corvette installation instructions

Thank you for your purchase, we appreciate your business

Do not attempt this installation if proper safety equipment isn’t available to you. Seek the assistance of a professional installer.

Kooks C5 headers install from the top of the vehicle. Raising and securing the vehicle with jack stands is a must if a lift is not available.
To install this system you will need only the general assortment of hand tools. But you will also want to have on hand the following, oil filter removal tool, and drain pan, four jack stands, one hydraulic jack, a gasket scraper, anti seize, a spray lube, [WD40], also surgical gloves, and safety glasses.
It’s a good idea to spray the WD40 to help loosen the connections and fasteners at this time. While the lube is doing its job, we can start the installation.

#1—Disconnect the battery using a 10mm wrench.

#2—Remove the plastic engine covers and the coil pack assembles.

#3—Remove the spark plug wires and the spark plugs. Also remove the alternator.

#4—Disconnect the air filter assembly from the engine.

#5—Disconnect the steering shaft at the rag joint.[just enough to separate it.]

#6—Raise the vehicle, and secure with jack stands. The vehicle will need to be 24inches off the ground.

Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com

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#7—Unplug front and rear oxygen sensors, but remove only the rears at this time. Also disconnect the two emission connections on the exhaust manifolds.


#8—Remove the starter, and disconnect the temperature-sending unit it’s located in front of the number one exhaust port, drivers side.

#9—Carefully remove the oil filter from the motor and disconnect the oil sender unit.

#10—Remove the manifolds and the complete exhaust system. [if being reused, the cat back system will need to be modified as explained below]If you are replacing the complete exhaust system, remove the two 13mm nuts that hold the connection pipes in place. They are located just forward of the flange of the connection pipes. You can then remove the two front oxygen sensors.

#11—With care, inspect and clean the exhaust port surfaces using a gasket scraper. These heads are aluminum.

#12—Both left and right headers install from the top. The engine needs to be raised. One side at a time! Also keep the opposite side motor mount bolt loose. When raising the engine to install the header, raise the engine as high as possible. On the driver’s side, remove the two ground wires from the block. Also remove the male and female rear oxygen sensor connections from
one another, and pop out the retaining clip that holds the sensor to the chassis allowing the connections to hang down, not to be in the way as the header is lowered into place.
[On the driver’s side, it may require some prying of the engine to one side in order to allow the header to slide in.]




Kooks Custom Headers – 200 Candlewood Road – Bay Shore, NY 11706
www.kookscustomheaders.com

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#13—Install the passenger side header, but do not secure it to the cylinder head until you install the starter first.

#14—Coat the threads of the oxygen sensors with ant-seize and install them into the Kooks headers, along with the emission connections. Then atach the headers and gaskets. Install the bolts, and tighten completely.

#15—Reinstall all items previously removed. The steering shaft, spark plugs and wires, air filter assembly, the engine covers, coil pack assembles, and the reconnecting of the battery.
Please note: Take extra care with all wiring, A/C hosing, fuel and brake lines, to see that there is clearance around the headers. You have just installed the finest exhaust system you can buy, enjoy it.

If you are using your factory catalytic converters. The inlet pipes on both converters will need to be cut at the weld. New inlet pipes will need to be positioned between the headers and the cat’s. Then they will need to be welded to the cat’s

You have just installed the finest exhaust system you can by, enjoy it.

Important note: All air fittings installed on C5 headers are made to be used. If fittings are no longer needed, we highly recommend the orifice be welded shut, and the fittings removed. Due to vibration we’ve discovered that the use of block off plates can cause welded fittings to fail. We highly discourage there use.

 

I put in LGs and I no trouble at all. My biggest problem was wiring up the O2 sensors because I tried keeping the wires farthest away from heat as I could.

 

From the top.

I had that problem with the alternator bracket, too. Had to take that off as well. The first time we were able to squeeze them in with the bracket on, but it's much easier without. There is one bolt on the alternator bracket I could only turn about 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and couldn't get a ratchet or ratchet wrench on it. It's worth taking the time to remove the bracket though.

 

I can't get the bracket bolts out because of the power steering pump pulley-it's in the way. How does that come off?

 

No need to remove alternator bracket, just the alternator.

I used a 2 x 4, that I slide in between the frame rail and alternator braket to roll the engine over to get headers out.

 

I just intalled my Kook's headers last week and they were a bear!!! Call me I can walk you through it with the right tools and people it will go smooth. On the drivers side you need to disconnect the steering shaft and move it up to get the header in! I had three nights in my header job! I can give you tricks to help!!! Jeff 216-905-1983

 

i fought with 1 7/8 kooks for a few hours. disconnected the alt., steering shaft, oil filter, starter, grounds and temp sensor and still a no go. even after lifting the engine one side at a time, both sides, etc.. i finally unbolted the four bolts from the front k member so i could drop it down from the rear. after that they went right in, both sides, from the bottom. it was a pita. i had to get it aligned when it was all put back together.

 

jeeze...note to self...buy a header that you dont have to do all this crap to get in......put in my LGs and my ARH without removing ****...valve covers stayed on....LGs....1 in from top one from bottom...ARH 1 7/8 both from bottom....even with starter in place

 

And just think if you need to remove them, you get to go through all of this crap again.

 

Success, got both headers in today. Didn't really do anything special to get them in. Had a different helper today and we got the drivers side in pretty easily. We had to unbolt and move the a/c line. So now I need new oil, coolant, and freon but the headers are in. Thank you everyone for all of your help.

 

freon, coolant, and a oil change....thats prob over 100 bux...could have put that 100 towards more expensive headers and not had to change all that...glad theyre in....if you ever sell the car...just leave those B's on haha
whens the cam going in?

 

It is never a good idea to pull an AC line. Anytime you disconnect an AC line you have to completely evacuate (vacuum) and recharge with the proper mix and volume of refrigerant and oil. It is not as simple as plugging in a R134 can from an auto parts store.

 

Had the coolant and oil already in preparation for the cam change. I will investigate further how to get the a/c system back in order. Kurt, I bought the Kooks used on this forum so I saved significantly. As far as the cam goes, I am getting a new hood painted for the car in a couple weeks and while the stock hood is off I'm going to do the cam. I have also told myself that I have to finish some jobs around the house first before more car stuff. In all honesty, if i had someone helping the whole time the header install probably wouldn't have been such a hassle. Now that they are in the fitment is really quite good. Thanks again to everyone for their help.