I've watched the video three times and can not figure out where George is indicating to attach the ground wire on the harness. Any of you who already completed the install help me out here.

 

There is a nut on the firewall right behind the battery. You can't locate it? Isn't there a photo that came with the instructions that shows you where it is? You remove the nut from the stud, place the ground strap on and tighten down the nut again.

 

I knew there was a nut there but didn't see it on the DVD. Thanks, will go have a look now.

 

I can post a pic if you can't locate it on your own, but I have the feeling that you already have...

 

You doing the HID's today?

 

As we speak, er type


Found the ground location

 

You can see a picture in the PDF version of the install I believe.

On another note. How long is it taking people to do aiming and adjusting?

I've spent 2 days already on just aiming and adjusting and it still isn't right. It's such a big balancing act.

You have to have the headlights aimed, but they may not fit the housing very well and the halo rings won't completely show. Then you have to adjust it so you can see the halo rings. Now it doesn't aim properly and you also have to worry about the headlights clearing the bumper. Then if you turn them too much the adjusting screw pops out of the plastic washer meaning you have to hammer it back in. Then, then, then.... LOL you get the point!!

Please tell me I am not alone!!!

 

You are not alone. The adjusters will only pop out when the module backs up against the stainless screws that are used with the spacers to mount the kit to the stock platform.

Were you in on the first or second GP? I thought that George was going to shorten the length of those bolts in the second go round. I wound up taking my Dremel cut off wheel and knocking a good 1/4" of those bolts on the outside (the two on the outside of the main beam) and that took care of that problem.

BTW, for any of you guys that have the adjuster screw pop out of the plastic cup, remove the plastic cup from the frame, place it on the ball end of the screw, THEN press them both into the frame TOGETHER.

As for the rest of the aiming, I took the easy way out.

I used my other vehicle with HID as a reference. Took note of where the brightest part of the pattern hit the sectional garage door, pulled the Vette up to the same distance and adjusted accordingly, stepping back behind the car to make sure the lights were lining up straight. To adjust the high beams, I just put the brightest part of the beams just slightly higher than the main beam hot spots. So far, no one has flashed me and I've got great coverage.

As far as the halo rings showing, just make sure you can see them when you are looking at the car head on.

 

I really gotta get to work on a set of non pop up projectors. I hate the pop ups.

 

Thanks! Makes me feel a whole lot better!

I was in on the second GP. Although, I'm not really sure why they pop out in the first place. It doesn't appear to be backing up into anything. I will be aiming and adjusting them all of tomorrow night so I will find out.

I don't know why I didn't just put the plastic cup on the ball end first! Sounds much more logical. I already have my 7mm socket ready for when it pops out so I can just hammer it in

Here's to another 4 hours of adjusting!!!

 

I guess I'm opposite. I love the look of the pop ups with the light cannons installed.

 

I love the look of them,until its night time and I have to use them. LOL

 

I'm assuming you do NOT have RadioFlyer's Light Cannons in that case!

Tupilo - With the shrouds off, check the two mounting bolts on the outside of the housing, next to the outer edge of the HID projector. What happens, is that the back of the projector housing, if pushed back far enough, will back into the tip of the mounting bolt, which prohibits the housing from traveling any further. As you continue to turn the adjuster screw anyway, it simply has no other option but to pop out of the socket. This is only happening on the HID projector side(s) of the lamps, yes?



I've only marked one of the bolts, but either one that is visible here can wreak havoc on your adjustments if they are too long and you're pushing the lamps too far back. This pic was right when I discovered what the problem was and before I shortened them.

 

If you're referring to the ground wire off of the relay, there's a small 10mm bolt to the rear/outside of the battery area:



The Aiming problem the JMc experienced has been corrected in all kits of the second GP by the use of shorter mounting bolts.

 

It'a not the lighting that's problem. Its the pop up that I don't like. I love them when they are down.

 

JMc thanks for the picture and tips. When it finally stops raining I will try to adjust again. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks again!

 

Tulipo, yes, I had the same issues that you are going through now. Funny when you mentioned it all as I went through the same exact things but I'll say, once you get it all sorted out and adjusted, and you just can't wait for night to drive, it is all worth it in the end. I can't wait to drive at night just so I can use the lights and with 4300K HID bulbs that I bought and that JMc suggested, all the better, though we/JMc and I are both wondering what 5000K bulbs look like.

I prefer to go to a dark, totally unlit road and aim my lights that way, then I know exactly where my lights are and where they will be.

 

When it's finally all sorted out I will post pics of my 5000k kit. The color really does look great. Almost looks like a silver when looking directly at it.

Just waiting for the rain to stop so I can work on my adjustments!

1

 

Well Tupilo, you've answered my question, then. I've seen some HID's on the road that had that brilliant, silver metallic look to them and I was wondering if those might be the 5000k. I love that look. Those look like "headlamps from the future" to me.