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I have searched the forums and found lots of info on replacing my front rotors and brake pads. It was a very easy process to remove the calipers and the rotors.
I have one problem.
My new pads are too thick to allow me to mount them back around the new rotors. I read where I can use a c-clamp to compress the piston, but I do not want to compress it in the wrong place and distort it.
How can I compress the caliper pistons back so I can put the darn thing back together?
Thanks so much and very sorry if this is a dumb question.
Make sure you take the master cylinder cap off before compressing the caliper. You may have to remove some fluid. I bought a turkey baster to remove fluid.
Use a c-clamp. I use a piece of wood on top of the cylinder...but whatever works. Compress it all the way so you can get the new pads on. Remember to use some of that anti squeak stuff on the back of the pads.
What I do is I place one of the old shoes between the c-clamp and the piston. I then push the piston in. Never had a problem.
Using an old brake pad with a c-clamp is the way to go. Just remember to check the fluid in the master cylinder prior to compressing the pistons. If the fluid is up to the top, remove some fluid. I have a brake bleeding tool, but a turkey baster works also.
I've got a cheap harbor freight tool that works but use the old pad at the base of the pistons and as above remove the master cylinder cap and maybe some fluid. This will be a good time to bleed your brakes if it has not been done for a while
Using an old brake pad with a c-clamp is the way to go. Just remember to check the fluid in the master cylinder prior to compressing the pistons. If the fluid is up to the top, remove some fluid. I have a brake bleeding tool, but a turkey baster works also.
Remove about 3/4 fluid before compressing the cylinders. In theory you should not need to open the bleed line. You probably will need to replace the caliper bracket mounting bolts. They are usually a one torque only. I've done them on the C4 which is probably much easier, but those bolts hold a lot of torque. I'd have to look the values up on a C5 setup. Best to review the FSM procedure for other items that must be replaced and not used, and for torque values.
Theoretically, if nobody has added fluid as the pads have worn (they shouldn't but some people do) when you push the pistons all the way back the fluid should come back to the full line. Watch as the M/C reservoir as you push the pistons back one caliper at a time. If the level gets close to the top then suck some fluid out. If you plan on bleeding the brakes along with replacing pads and rotors suck as much out as possible before compressing the pistons.
Make sure you take the master cylinder cap off before compressing the caliper. You may have to remove some fluid. I bought a turkey baster to remove fluid.
Use a c-clamp. I use a piece of wood on top of the cylinder...but whatever works. Compress it all the way so you can get the new pads on. Remember to use some of that anti squeak stuff on the back of the pads.
I agree with the suggestions shown above. I just redid my rotors and pads a couple of weeks ago. I took the master cylinder cap off when I compressed each of the individual calipers. I didn't need to remove any fluid, I just placed a paper towel folded over several times on the top of the Master cylinder to "soak-up" any small amount of overflow. This worked GREAT. I also put the master cylinder cap back on after each wheel was done and pumped the brake several times to get a firm peddle before going on to the next one. When completed everything worked perfectly and I didn't need to do any "bleeding".
Make sure you take the master cylinder cap off before compressing the caliper. You may have to remove some fluid. I bought a turkey baster to remove fluid.
Use a c-clamp. I use a piece of wood on top of the cylinder...but whatever works. Compress it all the way so you can get the new pads on. Remember to use some of that anti squeak stuff on the back of the pads.