Hi Everyone, I'm new to the C5 club. Just bought a Yellow 6 speed Coupe 4 days ago and i am really enjoying it. I not new to high performance cars, but just love the elegance, looks and refinement of the C5.

The car I bought from a used car dealer only had one key and it only works in one orientation (i.e. if I turn the key over, it wont turn the switch). It is visibly worn (car has 67K) so I don't just want to make a duplicate copy or the new key could have the same problem... or maybe not work at all.

I went to a local Chevy dealer and they said they could give me the key code from the VIN, but wanted $38 just for the code plus $40 more to cut a new key. Then the told me they didn't have the right VATS blank in stock, so they couldn't even make one if I wanted one right away.

I had already searched these forums (great source of info!!!) and found out how to determine the VATS code and ordered some blanks on eBay, but will I still have to pay the $38 for the code so a locksmith can cut make a new key? I don't mind paying a few bucks for the information, but this seems excessive.

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Paul R

 

Paul, I've got to believe the $40 quote from the dealer included the key. I followed the same route as you and ordered key blanks from e-bay. Think I paid $7 or $8 for them and then paid my chevy dealer $10 to cut them. All they asked for was to see my drivers licence and the car to verify that I was the owner, entered the vin into the key cutter and $20 and 10 min later I had 2 new keys.

Hope it works out for you.

 

It's called the VETTE Tax!!! Especially popular from the Stealerships but you will find the same when it comes to accessories. Apparently the theory is that if you want to play you got to pay.........

Can't help with getting the code to cut the key. You may have to pay for that. If you have access to another GM dealer perhaps try there. You might find one that doesn't want to get rich off you personally. Getting the blanks from the big auction site is a big step. Maybe they will cut your blanks at only a slightly unreasonable cost????

 

Nope, I ask him to clarify if it would be $78 (with the code "look up") for a new key and he said "yes". Several other dealers in the area, so I quess I'll go shopping. Thanks for the help! BTW, just checked my snail-mail PO Box and got blanks from eBay's "locksmithsource" (mentioned in a search related thread) in 2 days! $6 each plus $2 shipping

Paul

 

OMG....so much for spell check clicked it after a long post....poof....post gone. This is redone quick and dirty.

Paul, if you already ordered the vats blank, the resistance value IS the code. Just have the key cut by a regular locksmith from the one you have and you are good to go.

The vats pelet in the key is just a resistor. The vats number for a key is just a range of resistances assigned a number from 1 to 20 for the C5. So a pelet with a resistance of xxx - xxx is #1, xxx - xxx is #2 like that.

If you insert a key that was cut from your key with the wrong vats number in the ignition, the key will turn the lock but unless the system reads the correct resistance the starter will not engage. You could open the car with it but cant drive it.

Replacement key sets 101 (the really short version):

Key:

1) Get vats number for the key you have by either:
a) walking into dealer and asking them to put you key in the vats box and tell you the number (should be no charge for this) or
b) Read the resistance number of your key with a voltmeter, look up what range (and hence what vats number) the resistance falls into.

2) Get the correct vats blank (I think there are 20 vats #s for the C5) (I got mine online for $10)

3) Have the blank cut from your key at any locksmith, even home depot can do it ($2)

Fobs:

Two types:

**Prior to 2001, more expensive and had the passive lock/unlock feature.
**After 2001, cheaper.

There were two sets of keys and two fobs issued with the car. Thats why you have two memory buttons by the sideview mirror control on the door. The fobs are numbered 1 and 2 (turn the one you have over, there may be a large 1 or 2 embossed in the plastic, if not open it and get the part number). You could use two #1 fobs or two #2 fobs, they would both open the door (from the fob) and work fine, but you obviously would loose the second (whichever one you didnt have) memory setting, so the seat position and such would be identical no matter which fob you pressed to open the car.

1) Order the correct fob (either prior to 2001 or after and either #1 or #2). I ordered mine online, it was $15.

2) Train the car to respond to the new fob. The procedure is outlined in the sticky in the top of the Tech section and may also be in the owners manual. Its basicaly, step through the options on the DIC to Train fob, click the fob, poof....done.

Good luck.

 

Follow-Up:

I found another local dealer (Seaview Chevy, Lynnwood) who would look up the key code from the VIN for $15. Everett Chevy wanted $40! Guess who's going to get my future business for parts/service.


Jistari: Thanks for the post, but I need to correct you. There are 2 codes associated with the key. The VATS code that you mention, and a code that deterimes the actual cut profile. The 2nd is the one I needed from the dealer, since the key I got when I bought the car was too worn to make a good duplicate from. Mine was a 5 character alpha-numeric code.

I took this code, along with the 2 blanks I bought on eBay, to a local locksmith and now I am all set with 2 good keys.

Summary:

2 blanks from eBay (w/ shipping) $14
Key Code from dealer $15
2 cuts from locksmith $6

Total :$35

Having a spare if I lose a key: PRICELESS

Paul R.

 

Only got one when I bought mine too. The dealer (small town) measured the resistance for me (no charge), but wanted the same 40$ for another 20 for the blank and 20 to cut it. I spotted a mobile locksmith truck at the local bar so I stopped and asked about one. He said he would come to the house and cut one of his blanks for 30$! DEAL, after he got it done I found I only had twenties in my pocket, he didn't have change so just took a twenty!! Still wanted another fob, the next week I scored one on e-bay. Brand new GM still in factory package. 8$ & 2$ shipping! Total for a second set = 30 bucks. Programed the fob yesterday, worked like a charm.

Doesn't have the 50th Anniversary emblem on the key BUT

 

I am really surprized they charged you 15 to tell you the code, I took my key to my local dealer and they told me the code for free, I did have to supply proof that I owned the car.
Bill

 

I went the eBay route for the key blanks (after measuring the VATS on my original with a voltmeter) and the fobs. Local hardware store cut the keys for free. Total cost for 2 keys and 2 key fobs was $24. Can't beat that with a bat.

And in case anyone needs it, here's the chart to tell which key you'll need:

Vats #-----------Ohms

#1--------------- 402
#2--------------- 523
#3--------------- 681
#4--------------- 887
#5-------------- 1130
#6-------------- 1407
#7-------------- 1870
#8-------------- 2370
#9-------------- 3010
#10------------- 3740
#11------------- 4750
#12------------- 6040
#13------------- 7500
#14------------- 9530
#15------------ 11800

Now, your value might be slightly higher or lower depending on your meter, but it should still be pretty close to what's listed above.

 

DOH ! Hadn't thought of that

Well glad you got it straightened out

 

Im with this guy ohm reader at any car audio store FREE. key 9.00. Home Depot cut FREE they had no key to chargge me for. grand total 9.00

 

I only got 1 key when I bought my car. Called lock key shop, told them my VATS # I got from my voltmeter, and they had one in stock they had ordered for someone else but he never came. Key cost like $10 and $2 to cut, and FOB from ebay was like $25(?). Much cheaper than stealership. Although I must say, when I order parts thru stealership, they are not much more expensive than Gene's but no shipping involved so it comes out about the same.