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[Z06] Driver fender alignment

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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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Default Driver fender alignment

I just bought a new to me 2004 Z06. When I went to look at it, it seemed fine.

Now that I own it, I've noticed that the driver fender doesn't line up with the body properly. It must have been replaced at some point I suppose. (Carfax/autocheck showed no accidents, but that's not fool proof)

Is there any way to loosen it up and adjust it to fit properly?

I see that there are several screws on the top of the fender, but I assume there are more.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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Unless its a terrible misfit I wouldn't worry to much about it. My '01 has a few mis-matches particularly where the front bumper meets the fender. Think of the whole package, great suspension, motor, looks ect. just don't forget that after all it's just a cheve!
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pcbunn
Unless its a terrible misfit I wouldn't worry to much about it. My '01 has a few mis-matches particularly where the front bumper meets the fender. Think of the whole package, great suspension, motor, looks ect. just don't forget that after all it's just a cheve!
So it's not uncommon for the body panels on one side of the car to not match the other? Because also the passenger rear fender sticks out funky while the driver's fits flush.

The reason I ask is I got this car for a good price and I really don't want one that's been wrecked. I could flip it and only take a ~1-2K loss. (due to taxes)

I come from owning a Honda S2000 that all the body panels fit perfectly.

On a side note, the stock z06 suspension feels really soft. (in comparison to the S2000) What do I need to firm it up?

Last edited by 460cidpower; Jul 2, 2009 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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Exactly what part does not line up?
Can you tell by looking at the insides of the fender if it has been repainted?
It can probably be adjusted, but without knowing how much misalignment you are talking about, it is hard to say.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
Exactly what part does not line up?
Can you tell by looking at the insides of the fender if it has been repainted?
It can probably be adjusted, but without knowing how much misalignment you are talking about, it is hard to say.
Tomorrow once it get light out and if my digital camera will cooperate, I'll get some photos.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 12:12 AM
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Stiffer springs and sport shocks or coil-overs with adjustable shocks to stiffen up the suspension. But you need to really think about what type of driving you do most of the time. Too stiff a suspension can make your Z handle poorly on the street!
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 04:04 AM
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Not sure if it's the same situation as yours, but on both my past 2002 Z and my current 2003 Z, there's a slightly wider gap between the edge of the hood and front fender on the driver's side when compared to the front passenger side. Since it was on both cars in the same place, I assume it's "normal". I knew the owner of the 2002 Z before I bought it and it was never wrecked. My 2003 showed no crash history, either.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 460cidpower
Tomorrow once it get light out and if my digital camera will cooperate, I'll get some photos.
Yes, do that.

Take a look at the bolts, do see you any indentations around the bolts(in the fender) where they could have been before? Usually you can tell if bolts have been spun, but with torx screws it's harder.

ALL corvettes have orange peel. Is the orange peel texture consistent from panel to panel? Lots of times if a panel has been repainted, the body shop will color sand and polish the paint leaving less orange peel or a different texture. When I looked at a 2004 z06 a while back, I noticed the roof had no orange peel. As I looked further, when I lifted the weatherstripping I found paint lines from the masking tape. If you know what to look for, you can spot paintwork. Then again, some body shops do good work and it's very hard to tell.

As I'm sure you know, Carfax only shows what was reported, it does not tell the whole story, not even close.

Last edited by 03 Z-oh-6; Jul 3, 2009 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 Z-oh-6
Yes, do that.

Take a look at the bolts, do see you any indentations around the bolts(in the fender) where they could have been before? Usually you can tell if bolts have been spun, but with torx screws it's harder.

ALL corvettes have orange peel. Is the orange peel texture consistent from panel to panel? Lots of times if a panel has been repainted, the body shop will color sand and polish the paint leaving less orange peel or a different texture. When I looked at a 2004 z06 a while back, I noticed the roof had no orange peel. As I looked further, when I lifted the weatherstripping I found paint lines from the masking tape. If you know what to look for, you can spot paintwork. Then again, some body shops do good work and it's very hard to tell.

As I'm sure you know, Carfax only shows what was reported, it does not tell the whole story, not even close.
When I got up this morning I took it to a body shop that I trust and had the guy look at it. (my camera is not working)

He said that the panels were within the crappy tolerances GM has on 'Vettes.
He didn't think that any of the panels had been replaced.

I appreciate your help. The driver fender does have a small crack at the very bottom, but it doesn't seem to go all the way through. It looks like damage from a jack.

What can I put on the crack to keep it from cracking through?
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by pcbunn
Stiffer springs and sport shocks or coil-overs with adjustable shocks to stiffen up the suspension. But you need to really think about what type of driving you do most of the time. Too stiff a suspension can make your Z handle poorly on the street!
Is there a good kit out there I can buy? It is a street driven only car, but coming from driving an S2000, it just feels really soft.

PS, my buget for this car is pretty good. I'm willing to put ~2K in it to make it handle better.

Also, I know it will need a clutch pretty soon, (50K mi. on the stocker) will this SPEC kit work well? It has ~450HP @ the flywheel.

Product Information

* Application for Chevy / Corvette / 1997-2004 Aluminum Flywheel: $ 399.00
Stage3 clutch: $ 449.00
X 1 = $848.00
Quantity
* Billet Aluminum Pressure Plate Option X 1 = $289.00
Quantity
* Concentric Hydraulic Release Bearing/Slave Assembly X 1 = $109.00
Quantity
* Clutch Slave Cylinder X 1 = $95.00
Quantity
* Clutch Master Cylinder X 1 = $99.00
Quantity

Total Cost: $1,440.00

Last edited by 460cidpower; Jul 3, 2009 at 01:11 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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What color did you get?

If you want the best recommendations for upgraded suspension, I start a new thread.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 Z-oh-6
What color did you get?

If you want the best recommendations for upgraded suspension, I start a new thread.
OK. I didn't want to make like 3 threads and clutter up the forum. But if it's ok, that's what I'll do.

BWT, it's gray... :-)
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 460cidpower
OK. I didn't want to make like 3 threads and clutter up the forum. But if it's ok, that's what I'll do.

BWT, it's gray... :-)
You have an 04, that technically is machine silver. Machine silver does look gray in a lot of lighting conditions. I have an 03 z06 which is quicksilver. Quicksilver is a lighter silver. They're both very nice. Also, in some lighting conditions, especially with silver, you will notice your front and rear bumpers are a darker shade than the rest of the car. It's most noticeable with the rear bumper. This is NORMAL so don't worry.

This is a great forum. Start all the threads you want. Very helpful people around here.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 460cidpower
I just bought a new to me 2004 Z06. When I went to look at it, it seemed fine.

Now that I own it, I've noticed that the driver fender doesn't line up with the body properly. It must have been replaced at some point I suppose. (Carfax/autocheck showed no accidents, but that's not fool proof)

Is there any way to loosen it up and adjust it to fit properly?

I see that there are several screws on the top of the fender, but I assume there are more.
Search "Fender Replacement" and find the excellent procedure with photos. The visible screws on top of the fender are about half the total, and all can be loosened and the fender can be easily repositioned to your liking. (I used it after an off-track excursion moved some of my body parts, but don't tell my wife).
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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If you are even moderately handy and get yourself a set of shop manuals (~$100 - $130), one of the three manuals is dedicated to body panels. My front bumper was out of alignment with the hood and headlight on the driver's side from the day I drove it home from the dealer. Looked in the manual and saw how easy it was to take the whole bumper off, so I started poking around. Turns out that two of the bolts right near the hood/bumper intersection were loose (on the rail under the top edge of the bumper), and that made the bumper sag just on that side. Straightened up the rail, tightened the bolts up with some Loctite, and the bumper is nicely lined up again so that the bumper, headlight and hood are all flush at their intersection.

There are fasteners all over that you can loosen up in order to adjust body panel alignments quite easily, you just need to know where they are. Once the fasteners are loosened, the panels are so malleable (what with being composite plastic, as opposed to steel) that they are very easy to get lined up and then just re-tighten.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by imp zog
If you are even moderately handy and get yourself a set of shop manuals (~$100 - $130), one of the three manuals is dedicated to body panels. My front bumper was out of alignment with the hood and headlight on the driver's side from the day I drove it home from the dealer. Looked in the manual and saw how easy it was to take the whole bumper off, so I started poking around. Turns out that two of the bolts right near the hood/bumper intersection were loose (on the rail under the top edge of the bumper), and that made the bumper sag just on that side. Straightened up the rail, tightened the bolts up with some Loctite, and the bumper is nicely lined up again so that the bumper, headlight and hood are all flush at their intersection.

There are fasteners all over that you can loosen up in order to adjust body panel alignments quite easily, you just need to know where they are. Once the fasteners are loosened, the panels are so malleable (what with being composite plastic, as opposed to steel) that they are very easy to get lined up and then just re-tighten.
The first parts I ordered are shop manuals. Helms shipped them yesterday.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 460cidpower
The first parts I ordered are shop manuals. Helms shipped them yesterday.
Good call, they pay for themselves in no time!
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