[Z06] Drop on stock bolt question
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 22
From: Cary NC
Get it on a level floor. Take your measurements. Adjust. Go drive the car and let it settle. Adjust again. Then let is settle for a few days. Measure. Make a final small adjustment. Measure. When you have the ride height and rake correct. Go get an alignment. Then leave it alone.
Doing it on a lift sure makes it easier.
Doing it on a lift sure makes it easier.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,221
Likes: 987
From: Think BEFORE hitting "Submit Reply"
If you lower it the same number of turns at each corner, you won't have to worry about taking measurements, and it maintains the factory rake from rear to front.
Five turns equals about 5/8"- 3/4" drop at the wheel well, so go from there.
Five turns equals about 5/8"- 3/4" drop at the wheel well, so go from there.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 22
From: Cary NC
Yeah right. Good luck with that theory. Never measure ride height on these cars at the wheel well. They are not consistent. Measure under the frame rails near the jacking points.
You should be able to make equal number of turns in theory and it will be fine. I found mine was off. Might have been just right when it left the factory. I bought it used after it had 4 years sitting on its suspension. It wasn't right corner to corner.
On the front you can go all the way. On the rear make sure you have at least 2 threads showing.
You should be able to make equal number of turns in theory and it will be fine. I found mine was off. Might have been just right when it left the factory. I bought it used after it had 4 years sitting on its suspension. It wasn't right corner to corner.
On the front you can go all the way. On the rear make sure you have at least 2 threads showing.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Yeah right. Good luck with that theory. Never measure ride height on these cars at the wheel well. They are not consistent. Measure under the frame rails near the jacking points.
You should be able to make equal number of turns in theory and it will be fine. I found mine was off. Might have been just right when it left the factory. I bought it used after it had 4 years sitting on its suspension. It wasn't right corner to corner.
On the front you can go all the way. On the rear make sure you have at least 2 threads showing.
You should be able to make equal number of turns in theory and it will be fine. I found mine was off. Might have been just right when it left the factory. I bought it used after it had 4 years sitting on its suspension. It wasn't right corner to corner.
On the front you can go all the way. On the rear make sure you have at least 2 threads showing.
Quick question as well: Will it handle better/worse after this, or just about the same?
Definitely dont want to give up any handling whatsoever!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 22
From: Cary NC
Dropping 3/4" max from factory is about it. Do not cut the front bushings and slam the front and rear. It will handle like crap. Like Solofast says. Unless you use shorter shocks. I dropped my first Z06 like that. I think the front was at the lowest setting and the rear had maybe 5 thread turns showing. Then I got a very aggressive alignment for track and autocross use. I liked it.
Now I'm on my 2nd Z06 and use coilovers. They're different. It's nice having some shock adjustment. Also setting the ride height and corner weighting the car. Then aggressive alignment. It handle great. Not an easy going ride though.
It really depends on your goals. I know a lot of people don't like that 4x4 look on these cars and drop them to get rid of that. Then they go too low and the car handles badly.
Now I'm on my 2nd Z06 and use coilovers. They're different. It's nice having some shock adjustment. Also setting the ride height and corner weighting the car. Then aggressive alignment. It handle great. Not an easy going ride though.
It really depends on your goals. I know a lot of people don't like that 4x4 look on these cars and drop them to get rid of that. Then they go too low and the car handles badly.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
Most folks use four pads of plywood and shim them until they are level, you can use string or even better, a laser level to get them even.
When I had my house built I had one half of the garage set up with a laser level and poured to be level. Makes this kind of stuff easy...
When I had my house built I had one half of the garage set up with a laser level and poured to be level. Makes this kind of stuff easy...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 22
From: Cary NC
Yup what he said. I use left over linoleum floor tiles as shims until the car sits level. I use a laser level and string level. Last time I corner weighted the car in the garage. Then took it down for alignment. We put it on a level lift on accurate scales. I was within 1% cross corner. Not too shabby for a home mechanic hack. Some of it was luck. Thing is you get as close as you can. Then make final tweak at a shop with scales. Then do the alignment. You should be about as dead on as you will ever get or care about.
Note: After you do that. Go measure the distance from the center of your wheel well fenders to the floor. You'll know why not to use that place to measure. Both my 02 Z's sat different where the rear passenger tire was closer to the lip of the fender than on the drivers side.
Note: After you do that. Go measure the distance from the center of your wheel well fenders to the floor. You'll know why not to use that place to measure. Both my 02 Z's sat different where the rear passenger tire was closer to the lip of the fender than on the drivers side.