I've already searched through all the threads about jacking, so I have an idea of the "proper" way of jacking, but I still have some questions...

Why is it that you are not supposed to use jack to lift the CENTER of the crossmember (inbetween the 2 jackstand locations)? It looks like a solid piece to me, if you can put jackstands on the sides of it, why doesn't a jack work? It's the same piece of metal.

I do notice that it's not a flat piece, and it's kinda like 2 edges (from side view) and middle is empty. So it's necessary that we place a block of wood there?

Is the rear the same? I just bought a set of rhino ramps today so the front shouldn't be much of an issue for an oil change. What about the rear?

I guess my concern about the wood is.. it doesn't feel safe as it could slip. When you lift a car, the angle of movement is not vertical, there has to be some horizontal movements too, since your jack doesn't move straight up like a bottle jack. I've looked how people have done it, but it's one of those easier said than done thing. Any photos would be nice too.

I want to do an oil change soon for peace of mind.. thanks.

 

Before I got my 4-post lift, I spent years jacking C5's with wood and a jack. The crossmembers are fine for jacking. I also have rocker rails I jack on and support the car on.





Just be careful you don't do this.

 

lol ^^^ how dare you jack the car up in the center of the crossmember!!!!

 

I use cross-members front and back, with a 12" length of 2x4 on top of jack, and of course jack stands when I get it to desired height.

 

For those of you that used wood on top of jack/under crossmember, do you guys see any chance of slippage of that block?

So a 2 inch thick by 4 inch wide vs whatever length (24 inch or w/e) block of wood is what I should go for? I'll go ask Lowes what kinda wood is strongest.

I just put my DD up in the air for oil change with the rhino ramps, I took like 4 attemps to get it up. I was really nervous about the angle and thinking I'll drive the car off, because the plastic kept making sound as if it's shifting as I roll down a little.. since I have to watch the throttle. I'm guessing vette might be a LITTLE easier since it's RWD but the air dam will hit the ramps though. Good time to practice it before I try it on my vette though

Thanks for the pics Patches, didn't expect less from you. I wish I can afford a 4 post lift. I see you had 2 pairs of ramps too, good safety in case jackstands fail. I might do that.

I did find another question to ask. My DD is an economy compact car, and the tires width almost fills up the ramps width. No need to measure, the vette's tires are much wider, so does anyone feel safe with part of the tire NOT on the ramp, hanging off? The ramps I got were the 8000lbs ones, I think the 12000lbs ones are a bit wider. What have you guys all used?

 

I've been using my 2x4x12 for two years now, no slippage, and I believe it's #2 pine, regular wall studs.

 

 

 

When you are going up on your ramps....if you don't someone to help, get wall type mirror if you have one & place it so you see out the drivers window just where your front wheels are. Cheap helper.

 

Cool, will check that out tomorrow at Lowes or something. Thanks for sharing.

I saw that one, but not exactly sure how it's made? I haven't worked with woods since 8th grade... when we made bridges out of wood. Is it just like a piece of "hook" shape metal that's drilled into the wood? The video is the ONLY place I've ever seen it.. does anyone else have it?

Dude that's an awesome idea.

A mirrow would've been a confidence booster. I think going up ramps is easy, it's just that your fear of screwing up (which can be a big problem..) that's making it harder than it is.

 

There's really no woodworking to it.

Here's the link: "Jacking Board"

 

The jacking board is a great idea. I am definitly going to make one but, I have been using scraps of pine and oak for 6 years. I don't have ramps, just some 2 x 8s with a 2x4 screwed on top. I used my table top saw to cut the angle in the wood so I could drive on to wood ramps. I have the ACI chin spoiler which makes the car very tough to get a jack under. Take your time with the wood, jack and jack stands, they work well.
I have a couple of jacks. The extra jacks work well if the car comes out of level.

 

For an oil change you don't have to go to those lengths at all, I just use the jacking point under the driver door, stick a stand under there and get the oil drain bolt out and lower it back down to empty completely, jack it back up the same spot and finish up.

 

I see. Thanks for the link, I saved it.

The jack I have is a low profile aluminium jack, and it already has a rubber piece, and it's square shape instead of a round shape. So I wonder if I can just skip that center piece... the edge clamps seem pretty easy.