Aluminum Shifter Bezel
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
If my memory is correct, its been 7 years, I bought the e-brake on-line from a company called UUC or something like that. I haven't got a clue what model BMW it was for but really you could use any handle.
In order to make the e-brake handle work I had to cut the width (height in car position) of the e-brake mechanism's handle. I used a dremel with a steel cutting wheel. This allowed the rectangular shape of the mechanism's handle to fit into the round shape of the aluminum handle. Then I boxed the mechanism's handle in by welding a peice of steel along the cut side, bottom side. This gave the mechanism's handle its strength back and kept the mechanism's rod in place. Am I making any sense? Then I had to remove the black plastic button from the rod, I just used a dremel again. The aluminum button on the end I had machined locally and attached it to the rod by inserting the rod through a drilled hole in the button and using JB Weld. The handle is held on with an allen screw at it's base just like some shifter ***** are held in place, that's how the handle came. I had Vette Essentials make me a new boot with a smaller opening to fit the aluminum handle and that's about it. It really wasn't that difficult to do.
Mike
In order to make the e-brake handle work I had to cut the width (height in car position) of the e-brake mechanism's handle. I used a dremel with a steel cutting wheel. This allowed the rectangular shape of the mechanism's handle to fit into the round shape of the aluminum handle. Then I boxed the mechanism's handle in by welding a peice of steel along the cut side, bottom side. This gave the mechanism's handle its strength back and kept the mechanism's rod in place. Am I making any sense? Then I had to remove the black plastic button from the rod, I just used a dremel again. The aluminum button on the end I had machined locally and attached it to the rod by inserting the rod through a drilled hole in the button and using JB Weld. The handle is held on with an allen screw at it's base just like some shifter ***** are held in place, that's how the handle came. I had Vette Essentials make me a new boot with a smaller opening to fit the aluminum handle and that's about it. It really wasn't that difficult to do.
Mike
On your shifter bezel, was there some trimming/shaping of the plastic console necessary? Did you have to enlarge the hole in the console trim?
Also, was there any forming/shaping of the bezel as well? Did you have to heat and bend for example in order to follow the contours of the console.
I really like what you've done. I've got a bezel on enroute to me btw. Ordered it from Dynamic Racing. It looks to be identical to yours.
Robert
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
CI 3, 4, 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
Thanks Mike.
On your shifter bezel, was there some trimming/shaping of the plastic console necessary? Did you have to enlarge the hole in the console trim?
Also, was there any forming/shaping of the bezel as well? Did you have to heat and bend for example in order to follow the contours of the console.
I really like what you've done. I've got a bezel on enroute to me btw. Ordered it from Dynamic Racing. It looks to be identical to yours.
Robert
On your shifter bezel, was there some trimming/shaping of the plastic console necessary? Did you have to enlarge the hole in the console trim?
Also, was there any forming/shaping of the bezel as well? Did you have to heat and bend for example in order to follow the contours of the console.
I really like what you've done. I've got a bezel on enroute to me btw. Ordered it from Dynamic Racing. It looks to be identical to yours.
Robert
Yes I did reshape the console but I used a dremel, ABS plastic slurry and sand paper to do it, I did not heat or bend it. The stock opening is in a d-shape but my shifter bezel is oval so I made a paper template of the overall shape of my bezel. I transferred the template to the console and opened up the stock hole. Then I taped the bezel where I wanted it (I sunk my bezel so the top was flush with the top of the console) and flipped the console upside down. Then I poured the ABS plastic slurry around the bezel, let it sit overnight and the next day I was able to pull the bezel out of the console and was left with a perfect mold of it.
Mike
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
CI 3, 4, 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
It was a lot of work, I would order one next time around.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...post1571394602
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Your welcome Robert.
Yes I did reshape the console but I used a dremel, ABS plastic slurry and sand paper to do it, I did not heat or bend it. The stock opening is in a d-shape but my shifter bezel is oval so I made a paper template of the overall shape of my bezel. I transferred the template to the console and opened up the stock hole. Then I taped the bezel where I wanted it (I sunk my bezel so the top was flush with the top of the console) and flipped the console upside down. Then I poured the ABS plastic slurry around the bezel, let it sit overnight and the next day I was able to pull the bezel out of the console and was left with a perfect mold of it.
Mike
Yes I did reshape the console but I used a dremel, ABS plastic slurry and sand paper to do it, I did not heat or bend it. The stock opening is in a d-shape but my shifter bezel is oval so I made a paper template of the overall shape of my bezel. I transferred the template to the console and opened up the stock hole. Then I taped the bezel where I wanted it (I sunk my bezel so the top was flush with the top of the console) and flipped the console upside down. Then I poured the ABS plastic slurry around the bezel, let it sit overnight and the next day I was able to pull the bezel out of the console and was left with a perfect mold of it.
Mike
Nice job.
Looks factory. I'm debating having the bezel chrome plated to match my chrome Chevy SSR 6 spd shift **** and polished aluminum BPP parking brake handle.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
CI 3, 4, 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
My heating question was referring to the bezel, not the console. I'm just thinking about the fact that the plastic console has some contours that are not perfectly flat from side-to-side and front-to-back, and the bezel is designed for a flat surface. Maybe the shaping of the plastic console can eliminate or minimize that I'm guessing.
Nice job. Looks factory. I'm debating having the bezel chrome plated to match my chrome Chevy SSR 6 spd shift **** and polished aluminum BPP parking brake handle.
Nice job.
Looks factory. I'm debating having the bezel chrome plated to match my chrome Chevy SSR 6 spd shift **** and polished aluminum BPP parking brake handle.
No I didn't heat the bezel it's still flat. I leveled it with the highest point on the console then built up the console low spots, with the ABS slurry, and shaped it with sand paper. It was a long process!
Be sure and post up picks when your is done.
Mike
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Ahhh, sorry about that.
No I didn't heat the bezel it's still flat. I leveled it with the highest point on the console then built up the console low spots, with the ABS slurry, and shaped it with sand paper. It was a long process!
Be sure and post up picks when your is done.
Mike
No I didn't heat the bezel it's still flat. I leveled it with the highest point on the console then built up the console low spots, with the ABS slurry, and shaped it with sand paper. It was a long process!
Be sure and post up picks when your is done.
Mike
The ABS slurry you mention.....is it anything special? Easily available? Certain brand name preferable? Would epoxy be suitable as well?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm really interested in pursuing this. Custom interior mods that come off as factory-looking pieces are the absolute best IMHO, and the poor excuse for a factory shift boot retainer ring (plastic) is one mod that is sorely needed on our C5s. I just wish one of the aftermarket companies would make a bezel with the same fit/finish as what you've done. Heck, it wouldn't even have to be aluminum. A nicely molded plastic piece in a variety of colors/finishes could be made to look very nice and keep costs down. Oh well, wishful thinking.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
CI 3, 4, 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
Ok, I see what you mean now.
The ABS slurry you mention.....is it anything special? Easily available? Certain brand name preferable? Would epoxy be suitable as well?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm really interested in pursuing this. Custom interior mods that come off as factory-looking pieces are the absolute best IMHO, and the poor excuse for a factory shift boot retainer ring (plastic) is one mod that is sorely needed on our C5s. I just wish one of the aftermarket companies would make a bezel with the same fit/finish as what you've done. Heck, it wouldn't even have to be aluminum. A nicely molded plastic piece in a variety of colors/finishes could be made to look very nice and keep costs down. Oh well, wishful thinking.
The ABS slurry you mention.....is it anything special? Easily available? Certain brand name preferable? Would epoxy be suitable as well?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm really interested in pursuing this. Custom interior mods that come off as factory-looking pieces are the absolute best IMHO, and the poor excuse for a factory shift boot retainer ring (plastic) is one mod that is sorely needed on our C5s. I just wish one of the aftermarket companies would make a bezel with the same fit/finish as what you've done. Heck, it wouldn't even have to be aluminum. A nicely molded plastic piece in a variety of colors/finishes could be made to look very nice and keep costs down. Oh well, wishful thinking.
I read about the ABS slurry on here. I bought an ABS plastic pipe from the local hardware store and drilled holes in it to make plastic shavings. I put them into a juice bottle made of polyproplene plastic. With a full bottle of plastic shavings I poured in half a bottle of acetone. I shook it up a bit with the top on and left it over night. The next day I had a slurry that I could pour with the consistency of honey. You could make it thicker or thinner if you want. I suppose epoxy would work too but I was concerned that when it came time to sand, one material might be denser than the other and make shaping more difficult. Hope this helps.
Mike
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
No problem I don't mind the questions.
I read about the ABS slurry on here. I bought an ABS plastic pipe from the local hardware store and drilled holes in it to make plastic shavings. I put them into a juice bottle made of polyproplene plastic. With a full bottle of plastic shavings I poured in half a bottle of acetone. I shook it up a bit with the top on and left it over night. The next day I had a slurry that I could pour with the consistency of honey. You could make it thicker or thinner if you want. I suppose epoxy would work too but I was concerned that when it came time to sand, one material might be denser than the other and make shaping more difficult. Hope this helps.
Mike
I read about the ABS slurry on here. I bought an ABS plastic pipe from the local hardware store and drilled holes in it to make plastic shavings. I put them into a juice bottle made of polyproplene plastic. With a full bottle of plastic shavings I poured in half a bottle of acetone. I shook it up a bit with the top on and left it over night. The next day I had a slurry that I could pour with the consistency of honey. You could make it thicker or thinner if you want. I suppose epoxy would work too but I was concerned that when it came time to sand, one material might be denser than the other and make shaping more difficult. Hope this helps.
Mike
I think I'll try an epoxy product or maybe a plastic resin might work well too. I've seen resin casting kits in some arts/crafts stores and maybe using some modeling clay, I could make any "dams" I needed to pour the resin into until hardened. I'm thinking drilling some very small holes (1/16" dia) into the "parent" abs of the console prior to applying the epoxy or resin mix would provide some additional "footing" or "anchor'' points and not just rely on the epoxy sticking to the flat (albeit rough sanded) surface of the console. It shouldn't take much material to build up any needed areas on the console.
Hmmm, I think I need to stop taking on these custom mod projects. I've already got too many going otherwise. Seems to be never ending.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,903
Likes: 0
From: I finished a Marathon, did you? Michigan
CI 6-7, 9-10 Veteran
Damn Canadians! Screwing up a perfectly good Corvette with Mustang parts! Just kidding Mike! Give me a call sometime, I would love to see itin person. Plus I would like to know which radio you decided on. What are you up to this weekend?
Paul
Paul
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 1
From: Biloxi Ms
do you have any pics of the bezel uninstalled? where can i get one of these?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
CI 3, 4, 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario
CI 3, 4, 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
