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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:11 PM
  #1  
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So my father bought a used 02 C5 Vert with 52k miles. I test drove it with him, and discouraged the purchase (at least for the asking price), but Pops had Vette Fever, and bought it right then & there....

During the initial test drive the car started perfect, and ran just fine, in fact it still does, but the problem during our short drive was that the brake pedal pulsates, and can be felt in either seat. The owner swore that it was the HP brake pads that he installed, but I don't think so. He also stated that the ABS module was brand new, as it had been replaced within a couple thousand miles. Do you guys have any experience with a pressure sensitive brake pedal that pulsates?

Also, because I'm spoiled and drive a mint C6, his interior makes a lot of noise. Creeks and squeaks, etc. It must be a common issue for that car/year, and I'm wondering how I can get rid of them.

I think the power antenna needs to be replaced as well. It sounds like it's grinding teeth when it starts & stops.

It's not my car, but I can't let Pops roll around in a squeaky car. Any help would be appreciated!

Keith
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:24 PM
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My '01 with just 44K on it has no squeaks or rattles.

I also have perfectly smooth brake operation.

The brake issue could be a number of things, I would mic the rotors and see where they are at, I've posted the numbers before just don't have them handy right now. And take a look at the brakes. If you want to start from zero, have him put on new AC Delco rotors and the OEM pad, Gene Culley our gmparts vender will help.

Which module was replaced or was it both? Could be a bearing went out, seems to be a common occurrence at 5th gen and they are a single unit replace that is wheel bearing and abs module.

Just have to identify the squeak see what is causing it and make the adjustment on the interior part. Hard to tell if any interior part has been taken a part or not. Generally once a part new noises will pop up unless someone is real careful insuring all objects are clear and/or have foam silence tape on them, especially wires. No different then the C6.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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First congratulations to pops on the purchase. If he isn't already get him on the forum!

Now on to the issue you mention.
Squeaks are minimal at least they were on my 02 vert. I used some frost king material from Lowe's in a few key spots to stop road noise. Alot of plastic in a C5 and if not correctly aligned can make some noise. I'm sure you will get the post from someone that tells you that to fix the squeaks and rattles by installing a loud exhaust system / headers and a loud stereo.

Hard to tell on the pulsing brakes. Do you know if previous owner replaced or turned the rotors when the pads were replaced? If they are warped and he put on fresh new flat pads then it will absolutely give you a pulse feeling and even shaking in severe hard braking. A flat pad on a warped rotor is not good. Did he break in the pads / rotors when changed? Here is the procedure from Hawk's web page. It mentions racing however do the same procedure at highway speeds when it's safe to do so.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: Why should I perform a break-in procedure on new brake pads?
A: Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to slowly be brought up to racing temperatures. Proper bedding creates a transfer layer film of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear.

Q: What is the proper procedure for braking in new brake pads?
A: Brake pad break-in procedure.

After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.
Important reminders:

Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads.
Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure.
Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure.
Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before racing.
Applying the pedal a few times before the start of the race will allow the brake pads to heat up before attempting to reach race speeds.
Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.
Some forms of racing don't allow time for the proper break-in procedure to be performed. However, it is still very important to attempt to perform at least the core of the procedure: slow heat build up and complete cool down

Good Luck!



Last edited by Optimus_C5; Sep 9, 2009 at 11:44 PM. Reason: Correction
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:48 PM
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Solid advice x2! Definitely address the brakes and rotors. When I bought my 03Z it had something like 23K on it. After a month or so, I took it to my local dealership for service. They asked me if I had been noticing any pulsation in the brakes and actually I hadn't. Nonetheless, even at the low mileage, the rotors were worn and needed turning. And, at that point, replacing the brake pads is a no brainer. Kinda like replacing both tires at a time.

Oh, and bedding those new pads can be fun!

Last edited by Hatchet; Sep 9, 2009 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:53 PM
  #5  
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All are seemingly minor problems,let pop enjoy his vette!
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 05:17 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by GrandpasC502
I'm sure you will get the post from someone that tells you that to fix the squeaks and rattles by installing a loud exhaust system / headers and a loud stereo.
hahaha Seems to solve a lot of annoyances with some C5 owners.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 05:27 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by GrandpasC502
First congratulations to pops on the purchase. If he isn't already get him on the forum!

Now on to the issue you mention.
Squeaks are minimal at least they were on my 02 vert. I used some frost king material from Lowe's in a few key spots to stop road noise. Alot of plastic in a C5 and if not correctly aligned can make some noise. I'm sure you will get the post from someone that tells you that to fix the squeaks and rattles by installing a loud exhaust system / headers and a loud stereo.

Hard to tell on the pulsing brakes. Do you know if previous owner replaced or turned the rotors when the pads were replaced? If they are warped and he put on fresh new flat pads then it will absolutely give you a pulse feeling and even shaking in severe hard braking. A flat pad on a warped rotor is not good. Did he break in the pads / rotors when changed? Here is the procedure from Hawk's web page. It mentions racing however do the same procedure at highway speeds when it's safe to do so.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: Why should I perform a break-in procedure on new brake pads?
A: Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to slowly be brought up to racing temperatures. Proper bedding creates a transfer layer film of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear.

Q: What is the proper procedure for braking in new brake pads?
A: Brake pad break-in procedure.

After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.
Important reminders:

Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads.
Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure.
Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure.
Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before racing.
Applying the pedal a few times before the start of the race will allow the brake pads to heat up before attempting to reach race speeds.
Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.
Some forms of racing don't allow time for the proper break-in procedure to be performed. However, it is still very important to attempt to perform at least the core of the procedure: slow heat build up and complete cool down

Good Luck!


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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 07:33 AM
  #8  
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I'm really unclear on what is being said about burnishing the pads. Yes this is a required procedure to perform when pads are replaced. Which by the way, rotors do not need to be resurfaced when pads are replaced. It is recommended to replace them if they are at or are close to the minimum spec.

The GM/Chevy procedure as stated in the Factory Service Manual is:

1. Accelerate to 30 mph and bring the vehicle to a firm stop without locking the brakes.

2. Repeat this 20 times in succession.

3. Afterwards allow the brakes to cool.

(Personally I like to time this procedure in the evening when there is less traffic and I just drive around the perimeter of my subdivision as the speed limit is 30, works our perfectly.)

Note at about the 16th brake you will begin smell the pads and this is normal. Also, observe the brakes for fade as you approach the 20th time. This gives you a great example of what brake fade is on less that exceptional pads. Some pads don't exhibit this as much as others. One particular pad I've used that where not fading at the 20th stop are AC-Delco DuraStop ceramic pads.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 07:41 AM
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I trust you have checked that the front wheels were properly torqued when last installed....
feeling vibration in the passenger seat means it is excessive.
Something sounds loose.
New rotors at NAPA should set you back about $30 each... that would be my next step followed by proper bedding in.
I don't know anyone that pays to turn rotors since it costs almost as much to buy new ones....
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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ABS sensor dirty?
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rws.1
I trust you have checked that the front wheels were properly torqued when last installed....
feeling vibration in the passenger seat means it is excessive.
Something sounds loose.
New rotors at NAPA should set you back about $30 each... that would be my next step followed by proper bedding in.
I don't know anyone that pays to turn rotors since it costs almost as much to buy new ones....
Get some new rotors and pads at the same time. I had to do the same when I bought my car.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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I didn't know C5's had power antennaes. My C4 has one, but my C5 does not?
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PHIL MEMPHIS
I didn't know C5's had power antennaes. My C4 has one, but my C5 does not?
Is your C5 a Z06/FRC? They didn't use retractable antenna's on the FRC/Z06's for weight and cost savings. Some have those antenna's in the windshield.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbopower87
Get some new rotors and pads at the same time. I had to do the same when I bought my car.
, You never know what the previous owner has done. Also, new fluid.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 03:45 PM
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I assume if it was the ABS activating, you would know the difference between that and pulsing due to out of tolerance rotors.
IF it is the rotors, just have them trued up at a machine shop, or replace them.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 12:29 AM
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Keep us updated. I have similar issues so I will keep an eye on your updates.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 12:59 AM
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OK fellas, first off, my father took the car down to the Chevy dealership to have the oil changed & lubed etc. They said that the rotors were warped, and that for 550.00 they would change them, and install new ones + install new pads (front only) and flush the brake system...

The antennae is power and goes up when the car is turned on, and down when it's shut down. I don't know anything about C5's so I couldn't tell you whether or not it's stock or not, but it's on the passenger rear quarter panel about 6 inches from the rear of the car.

As said above, there is a ton of plastic in the car so I guess that a couple of creeks & rattles are to be expected.

Also as said above, Pops is really loving the car so maybe I shouldn't be as concerned as it's not mine. So long as he's happy, I should be happy....

Thanks for the advice and info, you guys are the best! I mean Corvette Forum guys, not C5 guys.....


Keith
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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$550 is deep in my opinion, then again I work on my own cars...Congrats by the way!
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by PHIL MEMPHIS
I didn't know C5's had power antennaes. My C4 has one, but my C5 does not?
Originally Posted by Spying Beast
The antennae is power and goes up when the car is turned on, and down when it's shut down. I don't know anything about C5's so I couldn't tell you whether or not it's stock or not, but it's on the passenger rear quarter panel about 6 inches from the rear of the car.

Keith
FYI: ALL C5 convertibles have power antennas in the rear. They are the only C5s with this as OEM.

The FRCs can be easily retrofitted with a power antenna if the owner desires, since all the mounting locations, fenders, deck lid, etc are the same as the convertible.

HTH
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