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Did a recent brake job that turned out well and used Hawks pads (there great). At the same time I installed the speed bleeders. Lately the low brake fluid message came up and I was surprised that indeed I needed to add a considerable amount of fluid. Checked the calipers today by reaching through the wheel and found "dampnes" at the left rear tire. Perhaps I did not tighten that one well enough.
In any case, are they known to leak to some degree on their own? I hate to overtighten anything; what is the prefered torque? Thanks
It is probably leaking around the threads. Speed Bleeders sells a special replacement sealant in a bottle with a brush which you heat up and it restores them to "like-new". The sealant sometimes looses its resiliency after cycling the valve and will leak. As far as torque I just hand tighten mine with an small box-end wrench - never had a leak yet.
I removed my speed bleeders.. the bottom beveled ends that seat were entirely different from the stock bleeders.. maybe I got the wrong ones from Speedbleeder.. The rears held fine but the fronts would not at torque spec. replaced stock ones and work perfect. I didn't bother investigating but might be worth checking them against the stock ones.
It is probably leaking around the threads. Speed Bleeders sells a special replacement sealant in a bottle with a brush which you heat up and it restores them to "like-new". The sealant sometimes looses its resiliency after cycling the valve and will leak. As far as torque I just hand tighten mine with an small box-end wrench - never had a leak yet.
The stuff rarely needed but I've used it a few times in the last several years. Good to have on hand, IMO.
The thread sealant is necessary to prevent seepage/leaks when actually doing the bleeding with the screw open; the screw won't leak from the threads once properly tightened. I also had one of the four reluctant to seal and I had to tighten it harder than I would have liked. As another poster mentioned, you might make sure that you have the right ones--you probably do but it couldn't hurt to check. Sometimes it helps to tighten and loosen a problem bleeder several times, going a little tighter each time. That seems to "form" a seat and then it will hold fluid without being overtightened. Be careful not to wring it off or round off the hex(try several wrenches/small sockets over the screw and use the one that fits the tightest without slop). I also found that hard red sealant that comes on the screws to be poor, but maybe I just don't understand the stuff. I dug it out of the threads and replaced it with teflon tape. The tape will probably need replacing after I do a couple more bleeds but it works good so far. Good luck.
I ordered two packs of speed bleeders for my 2000 a few years ago. I flushed the braks fluid using them, but when I finished flushing, they wouldn't seal completely, so I had to replace the stock fittings for driving. I still use them for flushing purposes, but I can;t leave them in for driving. I examined the tips and they don't match the shape of the stock tips. If anyone wants mine I'll give them to you for the cost of postage.
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