[Z06] Supercharger is out...
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
Supercharger is out...
I'm going with just a cam. I can't really justify spending over 8g's on my car for the S/C when I don't even track the car. So I called Chris at ECS and talked about options. I want a mean sounding cam, but one that is drivable. I am buying a second car (with the savings of NOT putting in a S/C
) So my car won't be a DD. Spent a lot on her and I feel she deserves only to come out when it's nice 
So any recommendations as to what cam I should tell Chris to install? I am also installing the Pfadt coil shocks and I think their sway bars. I am also in touch with Chip from CCW and buying new rims /tires (Nitto Invo's) but not sure as to what style. I love these two: SP20 & SP20A. You guy's and gals can help with that too I am going with 19x11.5 for the rear and 18x10 for the fronts
Oh. I will be selling my rims that are on the car now with the Vredestein's mounted on them. They should be available early Nov. if anyone is interested. Of course this is a heads-up, because I will be placing them in the for sale section. You can see them if you go into my profile and look in my garage. The tires are brand new, as the rims. All have less than 500 miles on them. Just PM me
Thanks for helping me make my decisions
) So my car won't be a DD. Spent a lot on her and I feel she deserves only to come out when it's nice So any recommendations as to what cam I should tell Chris to install? I am also installing the Pfadt coil shocks and I think their sway bars. I am also in touch with Chip from CCW and buying new rims /tires (Nitto Invo's) but not sure as to what style. I love these two: SP20 & SP20A. You guy's and gals can help with that too
I am going with 19x11.5 for the rear and 18x10 for the frontsOh. I will be selling my rims that are on the car now with the Vredestein's mounted on them. They should be available early Nov. if anyone is interested. Of course this is a heads-up, because I will be placing them in the for sale section. You can see them if you go into my profile and look in my garage. The tires are brand new, as the rims. All have less than 500 miles on them. Just PM me
Thanks for helping me make my decisions
Last edited by dcd58; Oct 16, 2009 at 09:30 PM.
Race Director
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From: stop the fun suckers
the LS6 engine is more than enough for all but the most professional drivers... go ask over on in the road racing section and hear form a few pro drivers... save the money for seat time, seat time, seat time..
modified engines are more prone to go boom on teh track!
modified engines are more prone to go boom on teh track!
Thread Starter
Drifting
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
In the sale section you can buy complete blower kits (used) in the 3-4k range. New clutch is 1k... Can you turn wrenches?
I had a complete cam kit I bought piece by piece on the board.
$110 shipped for new Comp918 springs
$150 local for a Comp cam
$110 shipped for an SLP underdrive pulley
$40 for used hardened pushrods
I just sold it all to a friend for $425 because I knew I wouldn't be happy with just a cam. I'd want more power anyway, just like my last car. Next year I'll be buying a supercharger when the deal presents itself.
Also, I recommend a daily beater car. I bought a Ford Tarus at an auction; my co-workers can't believe I only paid $1900. It has kept 10,000 miles off my Corvette in the past 9 months. Worth every penny. Not to mention the fact that my Zo6 feels more "special" when it's taken out on sunny days.
I had a complete cam kit I bought piece by piece on the board.
$110 shipped for new Comp918 springs
$150 local for a Comp cam
$110 shipped for an SLP underdrive pulley
$40 for used hardened pushrods
I just sold it all to a friend for $425 because I knew I wouldn't be happy with just a cam. I'd want more power anyway, just like my last car. Next year I'll be buying a supercharger when the deal presents itself.
Also, I recommend a daily beater car. I bought a Ford Tarus at an auction; my co-workers can't believe I only paid $1900. It has kept 10,000 miles off my Corvette in the past 9 months. Worth every penny. Not to mention the fact that my Zo6 feels more "special" when it's taken out on sunny days.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
Not really, actually it was a Blower and a few other things, but I just said S/c to keep it short. Point is I don't really need a blower to just drive around and brag about it
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,954
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
In the sale section you can buy complete blower kits (used) in the 3-4k range. New clutch is 1k... Can you turn wrenches?
I had a complete cam kit I bought piece by piece on the board.
$110 shipped for new Comp918 springs
$150 local for a Comp cam
$110 shipped for an SLP underdrive pulley
$40 for used hardened pushrods
I just sold it all to a friend for $425 because I knew I wouldn't be happy with just a cam. I'd want more power anyway, just like my last car. Next year I'll be buying a supercharger when the deal presents itself.
Also, I recommend a daily beater car. I bought a Ford Tarus at an auction; my co-workers can't believe I only paid $1900. It has kept 10,000 miles off my Corvette in the past 9 months. Worth every penny. Not to mention the fact that my Zo6 feels more "special" when it's taken out on sunny days.
I had a complete cam kit I bought piece by piece on the board.
$110 shipped for new Comp918 springs
$150 local for a Comp cam
$110 shipped for an SLP underdrive pulley
$40 for used hardened pushrods
I just sold it all to a friend for $425 because I knew I wouldn't be happy with just a cam. I'd want more power anyway, just like my last car. Next year I'll be buying a supercharger when the deal presents itself.
Also, I recommend a daily beater car. I bought a Ford Tarus at an auction; my co-workers can't believe I only paid $1900. It has kept 10,000 miles off my Corvette in the past 9 months. Worth every penny. Not to mention the fact that my Zo6 feels more "special" when it's taken out on sunny days.
The cam install is cheap enough (around $1800 with a Dyno) and then there is the Pfadt set up. I'll still have extra for a new set of wheels/tires.
I figured I could of went for an 08 ($58g) sold my car (20-25g) put 20g down and finance the difference for 24 months, but like I said, I REALLY love what I did to my 01 and want to keep her.
OH, I don't turn wrenches any more I rather pay you ...
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
ok, so no more about what I WAS going to spend, I'm asking for some insight on what size cam I should put in so I can drive the car on the street and maybe some advice on what style rims out of the two I posted
Thanks
Don
Thanks
Don
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
I can give my thoughts on the cam...
Lots of guys here will say go big or go home. I felt the same way with my last car.. I went bigger and bigger, then twin turbo'd it
Looking back, the best cam for a strong street car is in the mid220's up to 230ish... Keep the lift below .600 so the springs will last a couple years, and the lobe seperation (LSA) can be anything from a 112 which will give you the old school rumble and give a nice bump in midrange power, or 114 which will give a nice "burble" at idle and offer a nice flat torque range with power slightly higher in the rpm range compared to a 112.
The specs on the cam I just sold were 226/232 .588 .595 113+4
It would give a strong midrange, more exhaus duration the get the burnt gasses more time to leave, and have a healthy chop at idle. It would work well as a nitrous cam, N/A, and it not horrible for a blower in the future although there are better choices for that. It's a good balance. Works well with the M12 gearing N/A.
Lots of guys here will say go big or go home. I felt the same way with my last car.. I went bigger and bigger, then twin turbo'd it
Looking back, the best cam for a strong street car is in the mid220's up to 230ish... Keep the lift below .600 so the springs will last a couple years, and the lobe seperation (LSA) can be anything from a 112 which will give you the old school rumble and give a nice bump in midrange power, or 114 which will give a nice "burble" at idle and offer a nice flat torque range with power slightly higher in the rpm range compared to a 112.
The specs on the cam I just sold were 226/232 .588 .595 113+4
It would give a strong midrange, more exhaus duration the get the burnt gasses more time to leave, and have a healthy chop at idle. It would work well as a nitrous cam, N/A, and it not horrible for a blower in the future although there are better choices for that. It's a good balance. Works well with the M12 gearing N/A.
Advanced
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From: The Woodlands TEXAS
Lethal Z cam
Hey guy, you need to talk to Shawn at Ragin Racin 337-354-9970...they have the cam you need...go to there web site...Ragin Racin. there Lethal Z cam has a nice lope and is very good on driving the streets...plus makes crazy HP...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,954
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
I can give my thoughts on the cam...
Lots of guys here will say go big or go home. I felt the same way with my last car.. I went bigger and bigger, then twin turbo'd it
Looking back, the best cam for a strong street car is in the mid220's up to 230ish... Keep the lift below .600 so the springs will last a couple years, and the lobe seperation (LSA) can be anything from a 112 which will give you the old school rumble and give a nice bump in midrange power, or 114 which will give a nice "burble" at idle and offer a nice flat torque range with power slightly higher in the rpm range compared to a 112.
The specs on the cam I just sold were 226/232 .588 .595 113+4
It would give a strong midrange, more exhaus duration the get the burnt gasses more time to leave, and have a healthy chop at idle. It would work well as a nitrous cam, N/A, and it not horrible for a blower in the future although there are better choices for that. It's a good balance. Works well with the M12 gearing N/A.
Lots of guys here will say go big or go home. I felt the same way with my last car.. I went bigger and bigger, then twin turbo'd it
Looking back, the best cam for a strong street car is in the mid220's up to 230ish... Keep the lift below .600 so the springs will last a couple years, and the lobe seperation (LSA) can be anything from a 112 which will give you the old school rumble and give a nice bump in midrange power, or 114 which will give a nice "burble" at idle and offer a nice flat torque range with power slightly higher in the rpm range compared to a 112.
The specs on the cam I just sold were 226/232 .588 .595 113+4
It would give a strong midrange, more exhaus duration the get the burnt gasses more time to leave, and have a healthy chop at idle. It would work well as a nitrous cam, N/A, and it not horrible for a blower in the future although there are better choices for that. It's a good balance. Works well with the M12 gearing N/A.
I think I would go for power in the mid range since I don't really bring the rpm's up to the limiter (except in 1st and 2nd-sometimes
). so I like the choice you recommend
Le Mans Master
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From: Texas-out west
go 11.5 on the rear rims, leaves more room for tire selection. I have
18x11 and need at least 11.5 to run a 335 tire, 12 is to big and would probably require mini tubs, don't believe 11.5 will, check for sure and go for 11.5 I recommend. good luck, sounds like your plan will be really nice.
18x11 and need at least 11.5 to run a 335 tire, 12 is to big and would probably require mini tubs, don't believe 11.5 will, check for sure and go for 11.5 I recommend.
good luck, sounds like your plan will be really nice.
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Smart move
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Drifting
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York
Thread Starter
Drifting
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From: New Rochelle, NY New York