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So here's the situation. Finally installed the headers and go to start the car, it starts right up then dies. Let me tell you how the O2's are set up. This may be the issue. I used the rears in the front locations with flat to square adapters. Right to right, left to left, just like stock. The rear plugs are left open. Do I need O2 simulators for this to run? It's going to the dyno and they will tune them out so I thought no problem to leave them open...incorrect thinking, I'm thinking...Please get me straight !!!
Far as I know we swapped the rear O2's for the fronts and used the adapters to go from square to flat. We left the rears open, just tied up out of the way. It's crazy, the car fires right up and 5 sec later....dies. That's why we were thinking we need O2 sim's to fill in the rear plugs.
I have no idea if it has thrown a code..won't run long long enough to see a check engine light, and I dont have an OBD2. Just trying to get it to run so we can get it to the dyno. One of the FAQ's in the header install thread @ LS1 how to said you will need O2 sims. We removed the coil paks, no fuel, starts instantly..then craps out....
The rear O2's are reference for the cats only they do not effect the way the car runs. I drove my car for months w/ no O2's after the header install and prior to my tune.
Last edited by Chevy Guy; Oct 25, 2009 at 07:50 PM.
Chevy Guy,
My friend took it apart but from what I recall, where the front O2 were located, they are not long enough to go to the opposite side. I could rewire them opposite, but I don't understand. Am I missing a piece of the puzzle? Obviously !!!
Chevy Guy,
My friend took it apart but from what I recall, where the front O2 were located, they are not long enough to go to the opposite side. I could rewire them opposite, but I don't understand. Am I missing a piece of the puzzle? Obviously !!!
Yeah, its coming back to me now. I just pulled out my LG paper work and checked as well.
Take a little break and clear your head. Go do something else for a while and go back to the car and start checking everything you touched for loose connectors. Maybe a vacuum hose got knocked loose?
I have no idea if it has thrown a code..won't run long long enough to see a check engine light, and I dont have an OBD2. Just trying to get it to run so we can get it to the dyno. One of the FAQ's in the header install thread @ LS1 how to said you will need O2 sims. We removed the coil paks, no fuel, starts instantly..then craps out....
You don't need an ODBII scanner, as you already have one built-in. Use this procedure to check the codes. I agree that a rear O2 will not this problem, as I've been driving mine without 'em for over a year...just resetting codes thru the DIC.
Of the things I can think of, you might want to double-check:
BanditDude,
Am i correct for the front O2's left,left/right/right? The driver side engine ground was installed in a different place but my friend says the path should be the same.
Did you do a mail order tune by chance?
If so you might have to relearn the computer.
the process for this is to try and start car, it will die on you leave key on till security light goes off. Do this two more times then on the third it should start and stay running.
Thats what i had to do when i reinstalled my new computer. It actd the same. it fired right off then died.
I think the front O2's are wired left connector to right O2 and right connector to left O2. I'll get up under my car and check. Maybe someone else can step in and confirm if this is correct or not.
BanditDude,
Am i correct for the front O2's left,left/right/right? The driver side engine ground was installed in a different place but my friend says the path should be the same.
Yes. The front O2's remain on their own sides.
I agree that a different mounting point for the ground should not be an issue. It just needs a strong path.
why did you mess with any o2 sensors thats your problem for sure put that back to stock, reset your ecu and try again
never heard of a problem with the car not idling after a long tube install
why did you mess with any o2 sensors thats your problem for sure put that back to stock, reset your ecu and try again
never heard of a problem with the car not idling after a long tube install
Thats the process for most long tubes. LG wants you to leave the rears out and use them for the front w/ adapters.
This has to be something silly. It actually sounds like the security system is killing the car.