So...I've been fighting with the back window for a couple months with various super adhesives to keep it from falling in...Finally, I called around and learned that the C5 Vert tops have to be replaced when the back window falls out. I've learned that when made, it is some type of heat pressed process which bonds the glass to the material.

The prices I was quoted to replace the top were $1200, $900, and $800. I asked the $800 guy why so much less and he stated that he is mobile and by himself thus avoiding big shop overhead such as the $1200 guy probably has to do. I also learned that even though being garaged most of its life, the material shrinks and pulls away from the heat pressed glass, making it fall out. Average time for this to occur is 9-10 years and mine is a 2000. Adhesives, epoxy's, are only good until you start putting the top down.

Anyone have experience with this? Just curious what people are paying or have paid or any other remedy (that works long term). Thanks, Paully

 

Have you tried Rhino Glue? I used the write up from this forum and the Rhino Glue to repair the rear Glass on my 00 Vert. It has been holding for over a year now.

 

The strongest one I used was "Amazing Goop"...I heard from another post that Rhino Glue didnt hold up very long...plus when I was at the store the guy didnt recommend Rhino Glue for this....It's the top seam that's breaking loose...the sides are holding up well but I'm sure it's only because there's not as much movement/stress there as opposed to the top seam when I put the top up/down.

 

Check this thread for a DIY.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-refasten.html

I used epoxy glue I got from a boat repair store. I figured if it works for boats, it'll work on my vert top.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...E_SYRINGE.html

The only difference for me, is I ended up getting one that set as a black color. Since I had a black vert top, this worked for me, otherwise I suggest getting the clear. I didn't have the suction cup setup like the other forum member, so it was just me and a couple of buddies pushing the glass and top together for a half hour or so. It's held up really well, although there was one spot in the middle, where I didn't quite get an even coat so I had to apply some more after a year or so.

Some words of advice if you DIY. Mask your vert top with painters tape very well to keep it off the fabric. Don't worry about getting it on the glass, 10 minutes with a razor blade will get any dried glue off the glass where you don't want it. Depending on how precise you are with the glue coverage, you may want to have a pro do it, since they'll be able to keep the seam more even. It takes a bit of practice to get the glue even and have good coverage since it really starts setting up after about 2 minutes or so.

My total cost was about 15 bucks to repair, and the quotes I heard on the forum were anywhere form 150 to 250 to have a shop do it.

Mark

 

I just completed a repair on a 1993 Olds Supreme vert with the same problem. They too, used the same process to glue the back window to the top (heat treated bond process). I used a combination of primer and adhesive to do the repair and it holds great even under extreme tension. The part numbers are 3M 08682 for the primer and 08609 for the glue (Windo-Weld).

The primer comes in a small aluminum bottle and the Windo-Weld is an aluminum caulk tube. Make sure the Windo-Weld is not expired as it will be super thick and unusable. The exp date is marked on top.

Use a q-tip applicator to apply the primer on the window glass, let dry and apply the Windo-Weld and press firmly to spread the glue. Let it set for a couple hours before applying any tension. I wasn't a believer until I used it myself.

I picked up both parts at my local NAPA for around $35. I found out after trying to squeeze the product out that the Window Weld NAPA sold me was expired. O'Reilly's had the Window Weld for more money but could not get the primer. They agreed to price match NAPA but it may be that NAPA's prices were just 2yrs old too.

It can get a little messy if you're not careful. Use nitrile gloves if you have them as the primer is semi-permanent on skin and not really good for you.

 

Does anyone know of a better than OEM replacement top? I thought I read that there are some aftermarket tops that have the window stitched in vs. glued in thus preventing this from happening again.

Depending on the wear/tear of the actual top, this might be a better option...

 

Mine has been fixed with the Rhino Glue for a little over two years now. I usually run with the top down, weather permitting. There are a lot of adhesives out there that will probably do the job. So far mine has held up to two Oklahoma summers since the repair.

 

Not a problem I'm looking forward to

 

I'm sure you all have seen the Chevrolet commerical with yet a NEW Chevy CEO, bud or Bill Wilkerson ( I'm not sure of how to spell his name) but he proceeds to exclaim the merits of Chevy's Quote "Put our cars up against anyones, and may the best car win !"

Well, to day I needed a small part for MY 6 YEAR OLD CHEVY, and much to my surprise, all of the parts are not only 'Out of Stock' their not even in anyone's inventory anymore, out of stock and part discontinued. News Flash to Mr. Wilkerson, "When you build a car it's kinda NICE TO THINK THERE'S PARTS TO BE AVAILABLE IF NEEDED !" This is one of the REASONS your in the tank and with this mindset, will always be there. I'll bet a $100.00 if my 6 year old Mercedes Benz needed a small part/s the dealership would know where to find em.

This is truly the last domestic car I buy.

 

Sorry I cant help, but with a 2000 vert I know I will have issues soon

 

Well I used the suction cup method...worked great at first but it just seems the cloth isnt bonding well enough to withstand the use and it's breaking free. Now I have a mountain of dried up goop which will have to be scraped off....thanks for the replies..I was hoping to get feedback from those who may have replaced the top...maybe I'll scrape and start over again.

 

Paid $499.00 for the top and $350 to the upolstery to install it

 

My '98 in New York has the rear window intact however the top has stretched so much that the door windows hit the outside of the top when closed. A local shop will buy and install a new one for $1000 which is a lot less than the dealer, they said that ten years is about the longest to expect the tops to last. Other than the rear window is the top in good shape?

 

My back window came unbonded on the way to CIX last year. I gorrilla glued it back in place and its held up fine ever since. I should mention that I live in Las Vegas and if the temp is over 68 degree's and its not raining the top is down. I haven't had a problem with it since I glued it back in place

 

If you have tried a number of adhesives and have "a mountain" of dired glue, your only alternative may be a new top. I would say anywhere south of a grand is probably a fair price. Some have said that there are new tops with "sewn in rear windows". I would sure check out previous clients of a shop before you make a decision.

 

My rear window started to fall from the top and I used clear RTV adhesive and it's been al good since then. I guess its works best for you.