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If it has been sealed, you cant put an epoxy floor coating, because the sealer is doing its job preventing the coating from full adhesion and will peel off and flake. H&C makes a variety of floor coatings that would be suitable for that, depending on what you want. I sell coatings like this for a living so if you have questions i can help.
I did the Ucoatit epoxy floor paint system in light grey with the terazzo flake finish and clear coat. It looks as good as when I did it six years ago and it withstands every sort of abuse I've given it. Highly recommended! Go to www.ucoatit.com for more info.
Prep....Prep....Prep. It's all about the prep.
Check it to see if it has been sealed. Then prep it.
It only took 3 of us about 2 hours to put it on, but it took me about a week to prep it.
It's been on about 3 years now and looks new.
Did I mention you need to Prep it?
If it has been sealed, you cant put an epoxy floor coating, because the sealer is doing its job preventing the coating from full adhesion and will peel off and flake. H&C makes a variety of floor coatings that would be suitable for that, depending on what you want. I sell coatings like this for a living so if you have questions i can help.
Well, I sealed my garage floor when I moved into my new house in '01. I decided to epoxy the the floor in '07 using an industrial floor coating from Grainger (it's a name brand I can't remember). This coating is rated for forklift traffic and will withstand virtually any fluid spilled on it.
I etched/cleaned the concrete with Muriatic acid and prepped the floor per the instructions (a couple of times).
It's been great for 2 years now with no peeling or issues at all.
I have two friends that have painted their floors. PREP PREP PREP PREP is the most important item. One guy used the Rustoleum brand paint from HD, the other used a paint from Sherman Williams. The secret is PREP PREP PREP PREP.
When we built our house in 01 I bought a special sealer from the concrete company ( forgot the name) and used it. I did not want the hasle of paint. It keeps stains, oil spills, brake fluid spills, etc. from soaking in. My garage is a 4 car attached with its own furnace, running water, and drain. We have 4 maried kids, so I am constantly working on one of the 8 cars.
I sealed the garage floor at our old home with PittGlaze concrete selaer and it held up very well and I loved the looks. The only problem is that when it gets wet or when it sweats with extreme temperature changes, it gets mighty slick.
I used Quikrete kit from Lowes and it looks like the pictures above.
It comes with the degreaser/etcher, and the 2 part epoxy.
Very important that it is two part. It states on the box that it is harder than concrete and, after applications to two different garages (one that had a previously failed 1part coating), I'm a believer.
Edit, if you want shiny, you'll need BOTH the base coat (comes in about 4 different colors + flakes) AND the clear top coat (which comes with a silicone sand-like additive for traction if you wish).
I highly recommend the clear top to protect the finish.
Also The floor does not seem to sweat in humid weather as bad as before the coating.
Last edited by jedblanks; Dec 3, 2009 at 11:01 AM.
I got the due it yourself kit from sherman williams, took a saturday, plus two layers of clear coat on sunday and monday. I added the pepper flakes look good
I got the due it yourself kit from sherman williams, took a saturday, plus two layers of clear coat on sunday and monday. I added the pepper flakes look good
Those are one the really good H&C kits i was telling you about, they shold be about 75 dollars and do 250 sq feet. Its waterbased, and its also a one coat product and includes just about everything.
I did mine with the kit from HD back in 03. It looks just like the picture above.
Now in 09 it is starting to lift where the tires sit each night. They get hot and pull it up. I don't know that any more prep or anything would have helped....its just the tires are hot when they get home from a spin in hot sunny Florida.
However, I have found that HD can mix a masonry paint that matches that color and I just paint those spots and drop on more color chips. Looks perfect.
If I had to do it over again, I may had just gone with masonry paint originally as I have used it on other jobs and it works seemingly just as well as the epoxy.
I have an industrial solvent based 3 part system on my floor. No pics of it but it was put down by someone who used to follow this board. It's been down for almost 3 years and no issues with it so far. Again, the prep is of utmost importance.
I did the Ucoat-it as well about 6 years ago and it started wearing and peeling as well under hot tires. They advertise a lifetime warranty, but DO NOT warranty it. I had a brand new floor that never had anything in/on it and I let it cure for a full eights weeks before applying the two part coating. I followed there instructions to a tee and it started peeling after about a year. I filed a claim, sent them pics, provided samples on tape of the areas that peeled and they said that the concrete wasn't cured. That's BS because I let it cure for 8 weeks ( 4 weeks longer than they suggest ). I talked to several local concrete contractors and they said it would have fully cured in two to three weeks and that 8 weeks was overkill. Bottom line is they refused to honor their warranty and made a poor excuse because I told them it was a new floor. I was very disappointed. All I wanted was for them to make it right. I highly recommend not using the Ucoat-it brand system. I am now looking at having a professional urethane coating done.
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