[Z06] Best bang for the buck mods for a C5 Z
#4
What are your goals and how much money to play needs to be asked first. Not everyone has $6500+ to play out of the gate. I'm going FI but that doesn't mean that it's for everyone. It can be a volatile mix if you don't know how to tune which equates another $300-$750 depending on what kind of tune you're gonna get. If you're wanting a simple 50 rwhp then I'd do a good CAI and a nice header with off road pipes. That alone would be almost $2000 so if you wanted more then the FI route would be more feasable. What is your purpose? Drag racing, twisty roads, or just street driving? Do you want lope or a sleeper? This is kind of a loaded question.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry, should have been more specific. Just talking about simple bolt on's. CAI, headers, X-pipe, cat back exhaust, 160' thermostat, things of that nature. Just want to know what gives you the best bang for the buck. I know the Z has a different intake set-up and the titanium exhuast that flow well but do you still get an HP improvement if you change them?
#10
Melting Slicks
Since you live in CA longtubes are problematic shorties are a goo trade off.. you wont get as much hp as longtubes.. but then you wont have to pull test and re-install every time you want to smog..... an x-pipe isn't gonna give you much but it sure sounds different..
Where in C-bad are you.. Im up off Aviaria by the socker fields
Where in C-bad are you.. Im up off Aviaria by the socker fields
#11
Drifting
Lets see....
Intake is around 300 for maybe 10 hp.
Catback between 600-1000 for nothing but sound.
Headers figure 1200 for 25ish hp.
A tune to optimize everything around 500.
Will make around 380-390whp.
Maybe add a cam kit for 2000 and gain another 20-30 hp.
Figure why not add heads for another 2500 and make some more power.
By now your stock clutch needs replacing and you drop another 1500 to fix it.
You now realize you could have just bought a SC kit from the get go, but decide to buy it anyways.
You see where this is headed? It never ends, its a sickness!!
Best bang for your buck is a dry nitrous system which can be had for around 3 bills. Keep it at a 100 shot and you should be safe as long as you don't get greedy. Hands down most bang for your buck.
Intake is around 300 for maybe 10 hp.
Catback between 600-1000 for nothing but sound.
Headers figure 1200 for 25ish hp.
A tune to optimize everything around 500.
Will make around 380-390whp.
Maybe add a cam kit for 2000 and gain another 20-30 hp.
Figure why not add heads for another 2500 and make some more power.
By now your stock clutch needs replacing and you drop another 1500 to fix it.
You now realize you could have just bought a SC kit from the get go, but decide to buy it anyways.
You see where this is headed? It never ends, its a sickness!!
Best bang for your buck is a dry nitrous system which can be had for around 3 bills. Keep it at a 100 shot and you should be safe as long as you don't get greedy. Hands down most bang for your buck.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Belleville Mich.
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Find a good built 4:10 rear. It will give you the best bang for the buck. While changing the rear out, install a trans/diff brace. Don't even bother w/ the shorty headers. Maybe a better short throw shifter, and a good ram air system, extra set of wheels w/ drag radials mounted. Your're looking at 11 second 1/4 mi easy!, w/ out the cost and aggravation of headers. Good luck w/ your mods.
#14
Racer
I know the Z has a different intake set-up and the titanium exhuast that flow well but do you still get an HP improvement if you change them?
Catback between 600-1000 for nothing but sound.
#16
Burning Brakes
The best thing you can do is try to make use of all the power available in stock form. Might sound boring but, think about it - Are you really getting all that you could out of it to the ground right now? If you add nitrous, for example, you're just going to spin your tires even harder, unless you're just looking to build a freeway menace.
Get some stickier, wider rubber for better grip, and maybe a trans/diff brace to help control the "wheel hop." Then, with some seat time, you'll have a car that can't be touched by many others on the street, or strip, for that matter.
People always go straight to modifying these cars before they can even make use of what they already have. I know, putting new parts on your car is fun - I enjoy the hell out of it! But it's smarter to capitalize on your car's current potential before trying to make it more powerful. Once you've done that, then start bolting the power adders on so you can start the process all over
Get some stickier, wider rubber for better grip, and maybe a trans/diff brace to help control the "wheel hop." Then, with some seat time, you'll have a car that can't be touched by many others on the street, or strip, for that matter.
People always go straight to modifying these cars before they can even make use of what they already have. I know, putting new parts on your car is fun - I enjoy the hell out of it! But it's smarter to capitalize on your car's current potential before trying to make it more powerful. Once you've done that, then start bolting the power adders on so you can start the process all over
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