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Help... Shifter install kickin my butt!!

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #21  
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I think they are picking on you cause your at peak frustration.

Take a break and come back to it tomorrow.

If Sears is close by run get one of these:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...t+bolt+remover

or one of these:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...t+bolt+remover

Obviously several of us have done this install. There's no pressure from the coupler. They just slip together. Some how you have a frozen bolt, but that is very bizarre. You were using the correct size torex fitting? Mostly like an obvious yes!
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #22  
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Here's a picture of what it should look like:

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
I think they are picking on you cause your at peak frustration.

Take a break and come back to it tomorrow.

If Sears is close by run get one of these:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...t+bolt+remover

or one of these:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...t+bolt+remover

Obviously several of us have done this install. There's no pressure from the coupler. They just slip together. Some how you have a frozen bolt, but that is very bizarre. You were using the correct size torex fitting? Mostly like an obvious yes!
Thanks Jet.. T-40 torex driver...was correct far as I can figure. Thanks to all for your help.... Frustrating to have a new mod/toy to play with and the simplest proceedure turns into PITA. I took one of the other bolts out to take with me tomorrow in an effort to get something that will "bite" on this particular dia??
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:24 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
Here's a picture of what it should look like:

Thats it only on mine the bolt in the coupler looks like hell now!!!
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:28 PM
  #25  
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check this out
http://removeabrokenbolt.com/
oops but ya gotta pay for it unreal
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:37 PM
  #26  
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If you have a GM dealer or a Chevy dealer they should have one of those bolts, if not perhaps a NAPA heck even an AutoZone might have them.

Yeah that bolt should have popped free with no issues, like the other ones. No way to do the vice grip thing to see if it might budge?
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 05:54 AM
  #27  
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Penetrating oil isn't going to work if if the threads have loctite on them. The loctite fills the void between the threads, and the penetrating oil can't wick in.

Here's what you're looking for.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

The heat will help break down the loctite if you have room to use a torch. The mini torches can be purchased for around $20. They have a small pencil flame that can be directed at a small area, unlike the larger Bernzomatic torch. Just be sure your not heating any plastic or nylon parts

Last edited by Greg_E; Jan 27, 2010 at 06:07 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #28  
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Thanks to all for your help with this ordeal... I will purchase the craftsman bolt remover set (socket type) today and attack when I get home. I will let everyone know how it works.....

Thanks again for preventing me from beating the dog!!
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #29  
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Common...post a picture of the mess you made...we won't point and laugh...promise.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #30  
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Just another thought. Return the shifter you purchased and buy a different style. Most C5 shifters only require you to remove the 4 socket style bolts and not any of the Torx bolts. This way you can just leave this torx nut alone before it gets the better of you. I'm not familiar with the style of shifter you purchased but it sounds like you have to go through more steps than with other styles, such as Kirban, Hurst, Breathless, and others. can you post a pick of the shifter you bought. If your heart isn't set on the one you have go with a different brand. My kirban works great and didn't require me to go through the headache you are going through. I hope I don't come back to this thread and find you posting on how to fix a broken torque tube coupler. Good luck, and remember take deep breaths.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #31  
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Just remove the (new) shifter mechanism from the (new) "box". Leave (old) "box" in place. No need to do anything to the #40 TORX bolt that way. Although it would bug me that it's now all bunged up.

R&R the four 1/4-20 bolts, replace the plastic bushing if necessary onto the new mechanism, use the alignment pin procedure, torque the four 1/4-20 bolts to spec...
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 04:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
Just remove the (new) shifter mechanism from the (new) "box". Leave (old) "box" in place. No need to do anything to the #40 TORX bolt that way. Although it would bug me that it's now all bunged up.

Good Advice Above if that's an option

R&R the four 1/4-20 bolts, replace the plastic bushing if necessary onto the new mechanism, use the alignment pin procedure, torque the four 1/4-20 bolts to spec...
These are the only steps required for most shifters.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 07:36 PM
  #33  
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Quick update... Nabbed an easyout from work... Drilled the center of the bolt, easyout in, bolt out, shifter installed. Dog made it without getting beat. Shifter feels good........


Thanks for all the input guys.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #34  
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Congrats, enjoy the new shifter.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #35  
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WOW I was about to beat my dog from reading about your ordeal
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 08:50 PM
  #36  
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painful! glad you survived that mod!!
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #37  
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sweet glad you got it done!
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 09:09 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by cammedvette
Quick update... Nabbed an easyout from work... Drilled the center of the bolt, easyout in, bolt out, shifter installed. Dog made it without getting beat. Shifter feels good........


Thanks for all the input guys.
Outstanding - you're going to love that new shifter.
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