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You need to get the little computer deallies that you can attach to the system otherwise it is going to sense that your shocks are inoperable and limit speed to 80mph. Not a real problem unless you want to go faster. Many Corvette places can get you those parts, and they aren't too expensive.
If he pulled the box the sims won't do a damn thing. He's removed the controller box, the shocks are still there and sending signals (hey, I'm here and I got 15 ohms of resistance) so what's the point of 170 bucks worth of 5 dollar resisters in nice little boxes? You need someone with a tech2 and 5 minutes to delete 'f45' out of the main computer. That's all there is to it. A decent tech should do it for 15 bucks or so. As far as the shocks, if they ain't leaking you should be good. But hell, a set of Bilstein sports are only what, 300 bucks?
Last edited by Dave Sweatt; Feb 5, 2010 at 07:17 PM.
If he pulled the box the sims won't do a damn thing. He's removed the controller box, the shocks are still there and sending signals (hey, I'm here and I got 15 ohms of resistance) so what's the point of 170 bucks worth of 5 dollar resisters in nice little boxes? You need someone with a tech2 and 5 minutes to delete 'f45' out of the main computer. That's all there is to it. A decent tech should do it for 15 bucks or so. As far as the shocks, if they ain't leaking you should be good. But hell, a set of Bilstein sports are only what, 300 bucks?
Don't know why he pulled the box. But whatever. I don't know a tech II guy that will even plug you in for less then $50
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
My Chevy dealer took mine out with a Tech 2 for $25 while I had some other work done...I think that is the key to getting it for cheap, otherwise he will charge you 1 hour labor and $xx for shop materials!
I think your car is going to ride like crap if you delete the f45 but leave the f45 shocks in place. The box changes the shocks resistance to movement so with out the box they aren't going to stiffen or "loosen". My guess is they will either be really soft or really stiff.
This was posted here some time back. (Installed Bilsteins...) I did it and it works.
Go to Radio Shack and get the following:
Wire wound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
(The resistor is a 2 inch X 1/4 inch ceramic block with a solid silver wire on each end. Two in a pack so buy two packs.)
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a black wire running from the shock to a blue connector. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the blue connector from its mate and remove the shock.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the cut wire on one end and the blue connector at the other. Remove about three inches from the black insulation to expose the two wires (black & white) that it conceals. Strip both of them back about an inch.
Insert the resistor into a rubber hose (w/the wires protruding from each end) to protect it; solder the resistor between the two bare wires (black & white) that originally went to the factory shock to complete the circuit. I used some water proof silicone to seal the solder and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Reconnect the blue connector. Tuck the package out of the way and secure with zip ties. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there (as the computer looks for its resistance). Install the replacement shock.
Repeat for all four corners and you will be good to go.
Hi I'm going to have it tuned out, no need to do all of that.
My question all along has been how will the car ride.
Which of the 3 positions will it be in? Is it dangerous to ride on the shocks like that and why does it limit you to 80mph is that something I should still follow? Do I replace them or no? They have low miles
I guess I should have stated in my post that you should probably switch to Bilstein sports or similar shock. The shocks aren't going to be in any of those modes, they simply won't work this is why the computer limits speed to 80 mph b/c of the way the shocks work. The compression ratio changes depending on road conditions and if they are unpluged they cannot adjust and it will be similar to riding on really worn out shocks. I would be interested in knowing if this theory is correct. Take the car out for a drive at slow speeds and see how it handles or you can try bouncing it to see if the shocks just feel like a worn out set of shocks.
Yup that's why I'm asking, I've driven it and it feels just fine at any speed even ******* it.
Of course havent been above 80 but Ive gotten to before 80 real fast
As long as it's not dangerous I know I can ride on it until I decide what suspension to go with
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