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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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Default Corner Lights Fix

I'm getting ready to replace (for the 2nd time) the cracked, and moisture laden corner lights on my 2000. I'll probably use a stock type replacement as I want to minimize hassles with the CHP etc. Has anyone tried using metal tape (HVAC) to protect the plastic from the heat of the bulb? I'd try LED's but I don't want to start adding resistors etc. I did a search and came up empty.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettman 1
I'm getting ready to replace (for the 2nd time) the cracked, and moisture laden corner lights on my 2000. I'll probably use a stock type replacement as I want to minimize hassles with the CHP etc. Has anyone tried using metal tape (HVAC) to protect the plastic from the heat of the bulb? I'd try LED's but I don't want to start adding resistors etc. I did a search and came up empty.
I can't say I have ever considered using aluminum tape on the corner lenses. As far as new corners, I purchased a set of clear corners from Johathan at JW Motorsports, he is a vendor on the forum. You can also purchase the chrome/amber bulbs for the turn signals. I do not think JWM carries these bulbs.
Here is a picture


Last edited by Navyvette04; Feb 9, 2010 at 01:15 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettman 1
I'm getting ready to replace (for the 2nd time) the cracked, and moisture laden corner lights on my 2000. I'll probably use a stock type replacement as I want to minimize hassles with the CHP etc. Has anyone tried using metal tape (HVAC) to protect the plastic from the heat of the bulb? I'd try LED's but I don't want to start adding resistors etc. I did a search and came up empty.
I recently replaced my corner lights on my 2000 due to the same issues you talk about. The lens assembly melted right above the light and then let water in etc.... I went with the "Diamond Cut" type I found at Ecklers. I think they look so much more cleaner than the stock ones you should check them out. Ive also seen the ones from vendors on the forum and they look great as well. I did install some heat barrier inside the light before install though. Its made by Thermo-tec and can withstand up to 2000F. I bought a 12"x12" piece and just cut out two small patches about 2" in diameter and placed it right above the bulb. This serves to dissipate the heat and so far so good. I got the idea on this forum somewhere.

Here are some links:

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...3&dept_id=1381

http://www.thermotec.com/adhesive-ba...t-barrier.html
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Navyvette04
I can't say I have ever considered using aluminum tape on the corner lenses. As far as new corners, I purchased a set of clear corners from Johathan at JW Motorsports, he is a vendor on the forum. You can also purchase the chrome/amber bulbs for the turn signals. I do not think JWM carries these bulbs.
Here is a picture


Go led. No need to worry about heat ever again.

We have them in amber, white, and our popular switchbacks.

To cure the hyperflash problem you just need the hyperflash harness. We have detailed directions for them. They're pretty easy to install.

http://www.shop.jwmotoring.com/produ...2&categoryId=4
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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^ Just sent you an email via your website, it appears the clear/amber one has a different lense vs. the all clear and clear/black. They are not the same as the Eckler's one linked above w/ the diamon cut housing. Is this the case or is it a glitch on the website using the wrong picture?
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Vettman 1
I'd try LED's but I don't want to start adding resistors etc. I did a search and came up empty.
I know you don't really want to use LED's but they will solve your problem, and you don't need to add any resistors (just a hyperflash harness which you can make one yourself, there's been at least one write up on how to do that on this forum), or you can purchase one for about $50-$60.

I've been using LED's in all my exterior and most of my interior bulbs for years without any problems.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 06:42 AM
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My bulbs blew because of the cracks. I replaced them with JW's clear/black corners with LED's. Look awesome and bulbs should last longer.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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Yes, come to think of it I do think that the HVAC foil tape applied to the inside of the top of the carrier would work.

But I did do the LED's already and I like them so much that Id still do them again over the tape.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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The problem is the heat is melting the plastic. this means any tape would suffer from adhesive failure. You could bolt (or high temp silicone/glue) a small sheet of aluminum to the top section if you were determined not to use LEDs.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
The problem is the heat is melting the plastic. this means any tape would suffer from adhesive failure. You could bolt (or high temp silicone/glue) a small sheet of aluminum to the top section if you were determined not to use LEDs.
Not likely, it sticks to the flue on my hot water heater which gets hot enough to melt the pipe insulation on the exit pipe four inches away
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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just disconnect the DRL's and you won't have any problems
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
The problem is the heat is melting the plastic. this means any tape would suffer from adhesive failure. You could bolt (or high temp silicone/glue) a small sheet of aluminum to the top section if you were determined not to use LEDs.
Not true that any adhesive will suffer. The adhesive I installed has an aluminized kevlar frontside that withstands over 2000 degress and radiates the heat away and not through to the adhesive on the backside. That's the whole idea of it's design.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by tom_c5
Not true that any adhesive will suffer. The adhesive I installed has an aluminized kevlar frontside that withstands over 2000 degress and radiates the heat away and not through to the adhesive on the backside. That's the whole idea of it's design.
What did you use?
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jistari
Not likely, it sticks to the flue on my hot water heater which gets hot enough to melt the pipe insulation on the exit pipe four inches away
Originally Posted by tom_c5
Not true that any adhesive will suffer. The adhesive I installed has an aluminized kevlar frontside that withstands over 2000 degress and radiates the heat away and not through to the adhesive on the backside. That's the whole idea of it's design.
Where can i get my hands on this stuff.
I don't work with adhesives as much as I used to.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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Right in Home Depot. Its just foil tape in the HVAC section, comes in different ratings.
Or try a HVAC service place, that installs/services heating systems.
Its not expensive.

Took a look at the roll I have, and Im sure there are many types but this one says:

Nashua 324A Listed 7N13 181A-P

Last edited by Jistari; Feb 11, 2010 at 02:13 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
What did you use?
I used a Thermo Tec barrier and works great. Sorry so late on the reply.

http://www.thermotec.com/adhesive-ba...t-barrier.html
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jistari
Right in Home Depot. Its just foil tape in the HVAC section, comes in different ratings.
Or try a HVAC service place, that installs/services heating systems.
Its not expensive.

Took a look at the roll I have, and Im sure there are many types but this one says:

Nashua 324A Listed 7N13 181A-P
This is what I use for those types of applications that need either heat resistance, light reflectivity or both!
I have it on the fender cove shield inside the coves instead of painting them so my cove LED's reflect and glow better...
... and other LED locations.
I think it would work well for the plastic melting issue, but that heat has to go somewhere...
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