Got my Kwiklift...WOOT WOOT!!!
#42
Le Mans Master
I've had one of these for a while,just sold it. Here are a couple of observations to address some of the questions/statements.
Parking:
I ALWAYS parked on it in the inclined postion,for weeks at a time. Never had an issue,always ready to jack up if I wanted,and much easier(read lazy) than setting it up each time I might want to check for a leak or noise or whatever. Also, some guys you see have 3" grip tape applied. Very good idea and practical for this unit. 1 strip down the middle will work for the vette,maybe more for other cars.
Also a note about parking on it inclined. Athough some may want to back their cars down off the lift before starting for the oil to level out,which is not really a bad idea at all,I view this as no different than parking on a steep hill(think San Francisco). I had no problems ever and really see no difference here,but that's just me...YMMV
Alignment:
Do yourself a favor and take some time initially to (if you have 2 bridges,which I recommend) .......
1.) park your car on the lift where you want it.
2.) Note where you want the bridges in relation to the front and rear carriage.( Directly underneath it and test it with a bottle jack and some 2X4 blocks to make SURE you have it right)
3.) Once you have done this, check and make sure the lift tube will clear the bridge nearest the tube when raising/lowering it without obstruction.(yes,it can happen)
4.) Once all this is completed ,mark EVERYTHING,including your car's position on the rack.( For me,this was done by making a horizontal line on the lift. Once I cleared the garage door I would crack open the driver door just enough to see the lift. There is a small "notch" in the door jamb or sill area that I used as an indicator to my car's position.If you make your mark on the lift by comfortably/naturally postioning yourself and sighting down this notch,you will know where to place your mark.
5.) After all this is done,drill a couple holes and bolt the bridges in place,just so they don't move while approaching.
Once all this is done,you will have a lift customized to your car and ALWAYS postioned properly and ready to lift by any means. It is WELL worth the time spent, trust me on this.....
Parking:
I ALWAYS parked on it in the inclined postion,for weeks at a time. Never had an issue,always ready to jack up if I wanted,and much easier(read lazy) than setting it up each time I might want to check for a leak or noise or whatever. Also, some guys you see have 3" grip tape applied. Very good idea and practical for this unit. 1 strip down the middle will work for the vette,maybe more for other cars.
Also a note about parking on it inclined. Athough some may want to back their cars down off the lift before starting for the oil to level out,which is not really a bad idea at all,I view this as no different than parking on a steep hill(think San Francisco). I had no problems ever and really see no difference here,but that's just me...YMMV
Alignment:
Do yourself a favor and take some time initially to (if you have 2 bridges,which I recommend) .......
1.) park your car on the lift where you want it.
2.) Note where you want the bridges in relation to the front and rear carriage.( Directly underneath it and test it with a bottle jack and some 2X4 blocks to make SURE you have it right)
3.) Once you have done this, check and make sure the lift tube will clear the bridge nearest the tube when raising/lowering it without obstruction.(yes,it can happen)
4.) Once all this is completed ,mark EVERYTHING,including your car's position on the rack.( For me,this was done by making a horizontal line on the lift. Once I cleared the garage door I would crack open the driver door just enough to see the lift. There is a small "notch" in the door jamb or sill area that I used as an indicator to my car's position.If you make your mark on the lift by comfortably/naturally postioning yourself and sighting down this notch,you will know where to place your mark.
5.) After all this is done,drill a couple holes and bolt the bridges in place,just so they don't move while approaching.
Once all this is done,you will have a lift customized to your car and ALWAYS postioned properly and ready to lift by any means. It is WELL worth the time spent, trust me on this.....
#43
Le Mans Master
This is the one I had made. I started with the standard saddle that came with my jack and ground out the curves (according to the instructions that came with the Kwik Lift). In my case my large floor jack would only go about 19" high (about 1" short of what the Kwik Lift required) so I compensated by purchasing a 2" extension pad from Griot's (where I got my jack) and had a welder weld the two together.
#44
Safety Car
in my case, storage is at a premium and it is easier to leave it in the "uphill" position at all time. it also cuts down on the time it takes me to make the ramp usable for whatever mechanical operation is to be performed.
#45
Burning Brakes
http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/1566875537.html
Heres one for sale in NJ. This one is ten minutes from my house! he wants 899 for it, but there are no pictures.
Heres one for sale in NJ. This one is ten minutes from my house! he wants 899 for it, but there are no pictures.
#48
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Where Woke Goes to Die
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[QUOTE=flynbya2
5.) After all this is done,drill a couple holes and bolt the bridges in place,just so they don't move while approaching.
:[/QUOTE]
I agree with all you advise except this. The bridges can aid in other operations in addition to just lifting the car. I would definately not secure the bridges to the ramps.
5.) After all this is done,drill a couple holes and bolt the bridges in place,just so they don't move while approaching.
:[/QUOTE]
I agree with all you advise except this. The bridges can aid in other operations in addition to just lifting the car. I would definately not secure the bridges to the ramps.
#49
Race Director
Been looking at them for years. Great setup.
#50
Instructor
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Las Vegas Nevada
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I installed hardened clevis pins with a cotter pin type fastener. When I need to remove the bridge, it's as easy as pulling the pin. The bridges also help getting the ramps width perfect for the car since I have to widen them for my truck.