Hi, is there anyone out there who can help me?

I have a 2004 C5 Convertible Corvette that has had the battery replaced. After the battery was replaced it started and ran for about a day, now it will not start at all! when i turn the ignition on all the dials go from rest position to max out then back to rest position again, every fault appears on the dash readout like.... REDUCED ENGINE POWER, SHOCKS INOPERATIVE, CHECK TYRE PRESSURE, SERVICE VEHICLE SOON, LOW FUEL. also the fuel gauge shows empty even though the tank contains about 30 Euros of fuel, the car will fire and run for a nano second then cut out.
Does anyone out there know what could cause this? any help would be largely appreciated

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Steve Johnson

 

You did not say that you checked the connections at the battery. Since this was the most recent work, that's where I'd start. Poor or loose connections can cause all sorts of issues.

 

Thank you my man! but i have checked that and they are as tight as a ducks a...!

do you have any other ideas?

 

 

Steve,
Frankly, I still think something is loose and/or not connecting properly from your recent battery install. Go to today's C5 Tech forum and see "bunch of codes! help! active handing". I think there's a similarity to your issue with lot's of suggestions on what to check.

 

Thank you Tony i will have a look now and let you know if i fix the problem, thank you for sparing the time to reply to me.

Steve

 

It could be the new battery is defective or not fully charged. Do you have another battery you could try in it just to test?

 

Pull your codes and post them.

 

Check very carefully the large red wire connection to the starter solenoid. It is the power distribution point from the battery to the rest of the car. It is hot all the time. If the connection is loose or corroded, it will act just like a loose connection on the battery. If that is ok, I would substitute a known good battery. Also make sure that the rubber iinsulation on the battery cable is not pinched between the cable end and the battery, partially insulating it.

 

Even though the connections are tight, the battery could have a bad connection.

I bought a battery a month or so ago, when fully tightned the new battery would not work, bought a different one and everything was fine.

The new battery had a bad positive terminal.

 

I agree. This seems to be the most likely culprit... That's just too many errors to happen for the first time all at once to be coincidence. You should consider posting this in the C5 tech section...

 

Clear the DTC codes. When a battery fails you will have a slew of them. Afterwards see what happens then report back.

If you don't know how:

Do-It-Yourself owners will be most interested in the display of diagnostic trouble codes for all modules that transmit them. The "Diagnostic Display Mode" is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages

3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"

4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an "Automatic Mode" which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. If none are present in a given module, you will see "No More Codes" on the display.

There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, "Current" and "History", designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a "Scan Tester" is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except "E/M". Once the display shows "Manual Diagnostics", select a module by pressing the "OPTIONS" button to go forward or the "TRIP" button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press "GAGES" to go forward or "FUEL" to go back.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press "E/M". If you want to erase codes in a given module, press "RESET".

To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold "RESET" until it displays "NO CODES". Press "OPTIONS" to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules. NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory.

Clearing the codes will also allow any current code to resurface and not be overshadowed by unrelated codes.

 

Firstly i wanna thank all you guys for replying, the info you have sent me is invaluable....

Today i will check all the earth points, battery and solenoid etc....

I have already tried this procedure below.........

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages

3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"

4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.

....... and it does nothing at all which i find kinda strange.

I will let you guys know how things pan out later today.

once again thank you very much (so far.....).

SJ

If anyone else has any more ideas please could you forward them, thanks once again

 

i really wish i could pull up the codes, if i do this

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages

3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"

4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.

nothing happens at all, the car dash just keeps showing me these messages.......

REDUCED ENGINE POWER, SHOCKS INOPERATIVE, CHECK TYRE PRESSURE, SERVICE VEHICLE SOON, LOW FUEL.

if i try and start the car it will start and it will even rev, but the engine will only stay "alive" for 1 second. Im thinking that maybe the immobiliser in the alarm may be faulty...? but this still dont explain the messages on the dash and the reason why i cannot enter the diagnostic mode... any ideas?

 

I would not bother with the codes just yet anyway-if it a bad battery or connection your going to get TONS of flaky/conflicting codes. I bet your new battery is toast-get a VOLTMETER on it-if you can jump start it, the battery is most likely your issue.

 

You did close all of the doors when trying to pull the codes ? If not the DIC will not reset.

 

goood luck on a speedy fix. Don't give up!

 

You need to get those codes out of there... A couple of tips. (you are probably already doing this, but I just want to clarify in case)

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. Make sure your ignition is in the ON position, not the ACC position

2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages This means clear ALL messages including door ajar, hatch ajar, etc. Your dic should be completely blank when you start your next step. This doesn't mean press and hold the reset button, you'll have to press the reset button one time for each message displaying on the dic screen. Keep pressing the reset button until no messages appear.

3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"

4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period. It should be buttons 1 and 4. Hold down 4 and press 1 four times within... try less than ten seconds. I don't know what the time limit is, I always do it really fast.
________________________________________ ________________________________________ _____________________
After you get in there, press one of the top four buttons to enter manual diagnostics mode. Use buttons 3 and 4 to scroll between the different electrical systems in the vehicle and buttons 1 and 2 to scroll between the individual codes within a system.

If I were you, I'd clear ALL of the codes the first time you get in there. Then turn the car off for a minute then start it and let the engine die again. Then pull the codes. This will ensure that you are only chasing codes that are problems as of NOW, not codes that have been in there for a while and just never cleared. After you get the second set of codes out, post them here and we'll try to give you a hand.

Also, where are you located? You should fill out your profile when you get a second... Pulling codes doesn't take long, if there's someone close to you they might come by and show you how to do it.

EDIT

There's another member experiencing a problem very similar to yours and a there are couple of VERY knowledgeable and helpful members that seem to think he might have lost communications with the PCM. Here's the thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rt-at-all.html

Try again to get the codes out, but if you can't, I would investigate from this angle... You might start by checking the voltage at the battery...

Good luck!

 

Hi.... i followed your instructions to the letter and these are the codes i got.....

10 PCM No comm

2 TCS No comm

38 RTD No comm

4 BCM No comm

58 SDM No comm

60 IPC No comm

80 RADIO No comm

99 HVAC No comm

70 LDCM No comm

A1 RDCM No comm

BO RFA No comm

When i enter "manual diagnostics mode" i can use buttons 3/4 to scroll between different electrical systems, but buttons 1/2 do nothing if i try and scroll between the individual codes within a system.

ALSO.... i don't get any messages like "DOOR AJAR/HATCH AJAR" even if the boot or the door/s are open! i did get these messages before the car went doolally...

The most predominant message that this car shows me is this one REDUCED ENGINE POWER

then followed by....

SHOCKS INOPERATIVE, CHECK TYRE PRESSURE, SERVICE VEHICLE SOON, LOW FUEL

I did find a way for the engine to run for a longer period of time..... a longer period of time being about 2/3 seconds, this is how i achieved it.

I sat in the car with the keys in my hand, i pressed the button on the key fob to activate the alarm. I then placed the key in the ignition and turned it all the way to the "start" position, obviously this has no affect and will not start the car because the alarm is activated, but if i keep the key in the start position and deactivate the alarm by pressing the key fob the car starts immediately, it runs for 2/3 seconds, im able to rev it and then it dies...... this leads me to believe that the car Alarm immobiliser has a fault, what do you think?

SJ

 

All those "No Comm" messages means none of the computers are communicating with each other. I think you need to go back to the battery and/or battery connections. You need 12.5vdc across the battery, static power when the ignition is turned off. Please jack the right front of the car and check the cables at the solenoid as that is where all the power comes together. Look for burned cable insulation, lose connections and etc.