side moulding removal
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 163
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From: Santa Barbara California
side moulding removal
I have a 99 with the dealer optioned side moulding that I'm not very crazy about. I am afraid to remove it as I may damage the paint. Has anybody done this? I have only had this car 4 weeks now so maybe I will get used to the moulding. Thanks for any input, Jay
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
In C5 Tech, use search or search this forum (in the red banner). Use keywords "body side moldings". You will find tons of past threads, some with images.
There are different approaches to removing them, but basically you need to apply gentle heat to the moldings and then use either dental floss or fine fishing line in a sawing motion. If you're careful, there will be no damage to the moldings and you can resell them.
Residual double sided tape left over during the process can be rubbed off with your fingers, or removed with a citrus based product. Then polish/wax until you're happy with the results.
A couple of caveats...the paint may be faded beneath the moldings. Or, and worse...the previous owner(s) may have done paint/body work which will be revealed with the moldings removed. Then you may have to replace the moldings and/or do re-paint.
There are different approaches to removing them, but basically you need to apply gentle heat to the moldings and then use either dental floss or fine fishing line in a sawing motion. If you're careful, there will be no damage to the moldings and you can resell them.
Residual double sided tape left over during the process can be rubbed off with your fingers, or removed with a citrus based product. Then polish/wax until you're happy with the results.
A couple of caveats...the paint may be faded beneath the moldings. Or, and worse...the previous owner(s) may have done paint/body work which will be revealed with the moldings removed. Then you may have to replace the moldings and/or do re-paint.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
I did this a few years back and used a hair dryer and some fishing line. Best to start at the small section at the gill, heat it up using back and forth motions (don't hold it steady) and then feed the string in and (I'd suggest using some gloves (preferrably shark skin water ski gloves ) and as mentioned use a sawing pulling motion to cut through the double sided tape that holds them on. Then I used a combination of Goo-gone (and 3M Adhesive Cleaner (spray can won't harm the finish) to hit the remaining double side tape and reheat it up and use your finger to roll the remaining pieces off (this also where the gloves come in handy). There will be a residue left over so there take a soft cloth and either goo gone or the 3M cleaner and remove the residue. A note of caution, don't try to wipe off the reside for a bit while it is warm, let it cool down again because the paint is soft when warm and you are more apt to scratch it.
Next go after the longer pieces. There you will heat up a small section at a time, feed in the string and cut to where you stopped heating it, heat up another section and continue. Most likely the BSM will hold in position after you cut it free. Run the string through one more time and gently lift it away if it hasn't fallen free. It generally will stay there sticking to itself. I recall expecting it to fall free when I finished cutting it through.
If you have a buffer like a PC-DA random orbital like a Porter Cable-7424, you could hit the area with something like a Zaino Z PC paint cleaner and then polish. Sometimes a line is left where the edge was and say some wax build up or dirt. Using the buffer and the Z PC (or 3M Swirl Mark Remover (called 3M Perfect-It) found at most car parts stores) will remove this line residue. You can also use these products by hand if you don't have a buffer, but the buffer is always the better way.
Take your time, don't rush the job and all should be fine.
Next go after the longer pieces. There you will heat up a small section at a time, feed in the string and cut to where you stopped heating it, heat up another section and continue. Most likely the BSM will hold in position after you cut it free. Run the string through one more time and gently lift it away if it hasn't fallen free. It generally will stay there sticking to itself. I recall expecting it to fall free when I finished cutting it through.
If you have a buffer like a PC-DA random orbital like a Porter Cable-7424, you could hit the area with something like a Zaino Z PC paint cleaner and then polish. Sometimes a line is left where the edge was and say some wax build up or dirt. Using the buffer and the Z PC (or 3M Swirl Mark Remover (called 3M Perfect-It) found at most car parts stores) will remove this line residue. You can also use these products by hand if you don't have a buffer, but the buffer is always the better way.
Take your time, don't rush the job and all should be fine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,638
Likes: 326
From: Greenville SC
Did mine today. PIA but looks a lot better. Just a lot of work and time consuming, the biggest time is spent in removing the glue and cleaning. Fishing line and string kept breaking so I used a HD wide tie and it was kind of serated on the flat side so probably helped cut some. Hardest part is starting each piece.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia pa
Hey if any of you guys don't want your molding and you're going to just chuck them drop me a line please. I have a 99 Mag red coup but I assume getting them painted wouldn't be to hard if there aren't and Mag red ones out there.
I like the molding to be honest.
Keith
Keyo3600@aol.com
I like the molding to be honest.
Keith
Keyo3600@aol.com
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From: Slidell LA
I did this a few years back and used a hair dryer and some fishing line. Best to start at the small section at the gill, heat it up using back and forth motions (don't hold it steady) and then feed the string in and (I'd suggest using some gloves (preferrably shark skin water ski gloves ) and as mentioned use a sawing pulling motion to cut through the double sided tape that holds them on. Then I used a combination of Goo-gone (and 3M Adhesive Cleaner (spray can won't harm the finish) to hit the remaining double side tape and reheat it up and use your finger to roll the remaining pieces off (this also where the gloves come in handy). There will be a residue left over so there take a soft cloth and either goo gone or the 3M cleaner and remove the residue. A note of caution, don't try to wipe off the reside for a bit while it is warm, let it cool down again because the paint is soft when warm and you are more apt to scratch it.
Next go after the longer pieces. There you will heat up a small section at a time, feed in the string and cut to where you stopped heating it, heat up another section and continue. Most likely the BSM will hold in position after you cut it free. Run the string through one more time and gently lift it away if it hasn't fallen free. It generally will stay there sticking to itself. I recall expecting it to fall free when I finished cutting it through.
If you have a buffer like a PC-DA random orbital like a Porter Cable-7424, you could hit the area with something like a Zaino Z PC paint cleaner and then polish. Sometimes a line is left where the edge was and say some wax build up or dirt. Using the buffer and the Z PC (or 3M Swirl Mark Remover (called 3M Perfect-It) found at most car parts stores) will remove this line residue. You can also use these products by hand if you don't have a buffer, but the buffer is always the better way.
Take your time, don't rush the job and all should be fine.
Next go after the longer pieces. There you will heat up a small section at a time, feed in the string and cut to where you stopped heating it, heat up another section and continue. Most likely the BSM will hold in position after you cut it free. Run the string through one more time and gently lift it away if it hasn't fallen free. It generally will stay there sticking to itself. I recall expecting it to fall free when I finished cutting it through.
If you have a buffer like a PC-DA random orbital like a Porter Cable-7424, you could hit the area with something like a Zaino Z PC paint cleaner and then polish. Sometimes a line is left where the edge was and say some wax build up or dirt. Using the buffer and the Z PC (or 3M Swirl Mark Remover (called 3M Perfect-It) found at most car parts stores) will remove this line residue. You can also use these products by hand if you don't have a buffer, but the buffer is always the better way.
Take your time, don't rush the job and all should be fine.
This is the best and safest result in taking the moldings off.
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Follow what Jet-Jock said and the moldings should come off nice and clean. Hope there is not any difference in the paint color though when you remove the moldings.
