I found a new non-yellowing clearcoat on line to coat some polished valve covers. I was wondering if anybody ever used the stuff before. The manufacturer says you can brush it on without leaving brush marks, but I'm a little skeptical. I can thin it and spray it but brushing is just easier. I think its from the same manufacterer of POR.

 

I've used the spray can version of it from Eastwood. I like the look, and I can believe what they say about being able to brush it on. It seems to self level pretty well. I'm a lousy painter and yet I havent been able to get it to run or sag.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZSP-95502
Advertizing:
Quit polishing.
Seal in your shine with these ZoopSeal Jr. protective sealer kits. Simply polish your aluminum, stainless steel, or chrome, and then apply ZoopSeal Jr. to seal in the shine and protect it against oxidation for two to three years. One of these kits will cover approximately 30 sq. ft. They can be used on cars, trucks, boats, motorcycles, engines, interior accessories, and wheels.



Here's a customer comment and review from a google search:

Zoop Seal coating for polished aluminum, RESULTS!!!!!!!

I finally paid the price for a Zoop Seal kit and the results are good BUT, I learned a few things they don't tell you in the instructions. First the part must be polished to the shine that will be the final appearance. Zoop Seal doesn't shine the part, it just seals the shine that you start out with. In the kit is a cleaning solution which you mix with water, spray on, and then rinse off with distilled water, probably should apply twice, the part must be squeaky clean. The sealer is a two part, A & B that is mixed and allowed to sit for the chemical reaction to take place. They say, 3 Hrs, I say longer, six or 8 Hrs. Here is the tricky part, the sealer must be applied in a very thin coat going in one direction. If you have ever tried to apply lacquer with a brush, your first pass with the brush goes on OK, but before your second pass, the first has already flashed off and your brush just sticks resulting in an ugly, unsmooth mess. Same thing here, if you keep going over the same spot it will be too thick and you will need to re-polish the piece with billet polish and start over. Squeeze the sealer from your applicator cloth until it's barely wet, and work quickly in one direction to cover the piece with a thin film. In the instructions they say a max of 24 hours for the sealer to fully cure, I say 48 hours, or MORE. Here's how to tell if it fully cured. If a light brush with the tip of your finger leaves any sign of a smear, it's not fully cured. It should look and feel like fully dry paint and leave no marks from your finger tip. The third step in the process they call ,Final Seal, which goes on like ordinary polish and appears to remove any sign of surface film leaving the pores of the metal sealed. Before using the Final Seal the part will look slightly hazy, but when you start polishing with the Final Seal, any appearance of any film on the surface on the metal disappears and should have it's original fresh polished appearance. If the part appears cloudy, or if your cloth with the Final Seal doesn't work smoothly as your applying it, then that means the sealer was not fully cured and you must re-polish the piece and start over. After several phone call to Zoop Seal, re-polishing parts, etc. Long cure time is the key. It may be the humidity down here, I don't know, but when I finally figured out that FULLY CURED is the key, the product was relativly easy to use and I am very satisfied with the final results. The key is FULLY CURED and thin coat. The Zoop Seal is invisable when properly applied. These were all engine parts which I removed to apply the Zoop Seal, but I will seal my wheels with the tires mounted, on the car. Now if this stuff will last for three years, I'll be a happy camper.