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having to pull the ENTIRE drivetrain just to get the engine out is RIDICULOUS !!!
GM engineers should be shot for being this dumb !
You don't need to remove the entire driveline, Some folks just find it more convenient to do so. Try to know what you're talking about before making negative posts.
Do you recall how high the car was lifted? I can't really tell from the pictures. That looks like one heck of an operation in that garage.
I had the front jack stands maxed and on 1x12 wood (about 25") and the rears about 4" lower to get the engine under the bumper. That put the front up about 32". Then lowered the body and raised the rolling chassis in steps for the rest of the work. I have six small jack stands for front and rear cross-members and for safety in various stages of completion. Keep in mind I rebuilt the rest of the undercarriage as well so this was my only option.
It is my understanding that you can remove the front engine cradle separately if the torque tube is supported. The trans mount has some flex.
Keep in mind the body isn't real heavy but be safe.
If I had to do it again I might try it from the top. I don't know.
If you ever drove a C4, the stability of the torque tube chassis on the C5 makes it so worth it. If you have a lift, it is wicked easy. The Corvette was not designed with the shade tree mechanic in mind.
Well I DON'T have a SUPER LARGE garage with a lift Mr. DEEP POCKETS.
All of my own work thus far is done with jack stands and floor jacks.
And I didn't realize that wanting to do your own work on you OWN car was considered being a "shade tree mechanic".
You don't need to remove the entire driveline, Some folks just find it more convenient to do so. Try to know what you're talking about before making negative posts.
Oh well excuse me for making a comment about all I've seen here on engine removal, is the drive train coming off !
I guess we can't speak our minds or make comments here any longer.
WTF........
Last edited by Sinister-one; 11-30-2016 at 10:38 AM.
I'm in a two car garage (20x20) with an 8ft ceiling not including garage door (not really enough space for a useful lift). Since my lot isn't big enough for a second garage I had to sweat a little.
The C5 wasn't designed with any mechanic in mind. Even a well seasoned mechanic needs to do some research before wrenching in it. The service manual and this forum are valuable assets. I used a torque wrench when reassembling everything because of all the aluminum.
[QUOTE=Rob 02;1593563325]I'm in a two car garage (20x20) with an 8ft ceiling not including garage door (not really enough space for a useful lift). Since my lot isn't big enough for a second garage I had to sweat a little.
The C5 wasn't designed with any mechanic in mind. Even a well seasoned mechanic needs to do some research before wrenching in it. The service manual and this forum are valuable assets. [B] I used a torque wrench when reassembling everything because of all the aluminum.[B]QUOTE]
I'm in a two car garage (20x20) with an 8ft ceiling not including garage door (not really enough space for a useful lift). Since my lot isn't big enough for a second garage I had to sweat a little.
The C5 wasn't designed with any mechanic in mind. Even a well seasoned mechanic needs to do some research before wrenching in it. The service manual and this forum are valuable assets. I used a torque wrench when reassembling everything because of all the aluminum.
Now that's exactly what I was thinking. Leave the exhaust behind and remove top end of the engine.
The question I have for you is, is there enough room to realign the torque tube bell housing with the converter / clutch setup during reinstall ?
I pulled the mid pipe and left axle backs on.
Reinstalling the motor was the most challenging portion of the process for me. When I install my LQ4 408 stroker I will install with the heads off, I installed my LS6 with the heads on which required me to pull the hood for install. Then after getting the short block, cradle, starter, and crank position sensor in, I would get the headers in position since I will have so much room with the heads off.
The bolts that hold the bell housing to the motor are tough to reach while the motor is in the car. For reinstalling the motor I mounted my bell housing to the motor first and left the the slave to master line disconnected as I was working against clutch pressure when trying to align the motor to TT with the slave to master line connected.
Here is a my lessons learned thread with some other details.
I don't like disassembling things in confined spaces. Assembling the external engine parts goes quick when the engine is out in the open. My back is all messed up any way.
It is tedious no matter how you do it. In any case, I don't think it is necessary to remove the rear cradle as I did. I did get a chance to see some of the worn parts in the rear and address the issues and I'm glad I did.
from the top... bit of a PITA but not too bad....intake off, heads off makes it a bit easier...... the second pic is the short block being re-assembled...
I'm right there with you, I'm the relatively 'cheap' corvette owner doing all of my own work on jack stands and with floor jacks.
Pulled my motor from the top using that combination with the hood on.
I do all of my own work and I was thinking I was being smart not cheap . Money in my pocket and I know the Batt. post are tight .. A friend paid $8,000 for some work his C-5 left him on side of road after leavening the shop they did not tighten the Batt. cables .. That's why..
I've searched this forum hi and low and cant find a step by step for pulling the engine from the bottom. anybody know if such exist?
I would strongly recommend getting a factory service manual. There are too many minor details to remember and list. Most of it is general mechanical stuff. Upon reassembly everything should be torqued to spec.
Essentially what you are doing is removing the body from the rolling chassis and working from there.
If you have any concerns in specific I would be happy to answer them.
I would strongly recommend getting a factory service manual. There are too many minor details to remember and list. Most of it is general mechanical stuff. Upon reassembly everything should be torqued to spec.
Essentially what you are doing is removing the body from the rolling chassis and working from there.
If you have any concerns in specific I would be happy to answer them.
I've seen where some people drop the engine without dropping the transaxle and rear axle and suspension. This seems like the way I would like to proceed
I've seen where some people drop the engine without dropping the transaxle and rear axle and suspension. This seems like the way I would like to proceed
I have the 3 factory service manuals and I don't think they mention how to lower the engine or else I need to look harder
I haven't tried removing it without dropping the rear. There is a spline shaft on the torque tube that goes into the clutch or fly wheel. The engine would have to move forward at least 3 inches to clear the shaft. It seems like you would have to strip all the accessories off of the engine to gain clearance. I would tie the ABS system up and just unbolt it from it's bracket. No need to disconnect all the brake lines. You will have to disconnect the engine wiring harness and upper control arms.
11-24-2016, 12:50 PM
