I purchased a kicker 10" subwoofer with stealthbox and kicker ZX300.1 amp and PAC interface from Subthump to use with the factory Bose Unit. I hooked up the PAC interface to the headunit and hardwired the amp 12V amp power line directly to the battery and grounded the amp to one of the bolts in the rear hatch latch which connects to the frame. When I turn everything back on the stereo works fine, but there is no power to the amp. Can anyone offer any advice? I checked all of the fuses and they are all in tact. There is a remote input for a 18 gauge wire between the large gauge ground and 12v connections on the amplifier. If this remote turn on is the issue, where on the PAC interface does it connect?

 

You need to get a wire from REM to amp trigger wire on Pac. That's what tells your amp to turn on, blue/white wire I think.

More help in audio section. Mark

 

there is more help here as well
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I hooked up the remote wire to the amp and connected it to the blue and white wire. Still no power to the amp. I also tried the green wire to no avail.

 

try another spot like the seat bolt for you ground connection
if its not grounded you will not have power as well

 

The remote wire is nothing more than a 12v source that "trips" the amp into turning on. to test the amp, you can run a small jumper between the main power and remote leead terminals to see if the amp turns on.

Note: Some JL amps have a signal-sensing option that can be selected in place of the remote lead. Your Kicker may have this feature as well.

 

As stated the remote wire is just a small lead that triggers a relay inside the amp. Start by checking your primary power connections (the main positive and negative feeds) right at the amp. Use a volt meter or test light to confirm that you actually have power there. Then, you can momentarily touch the remote to the primary positive terminal and the amp should immediately turn on.

Of course, you need to find a keyed ignition source (not the PAC) to wire in the remote feed permanently, so that the amp turns on and off with the key.

 

I put a small toggle switch in my center console to turn on the amp when I wanted the bump from the bass, I tapped into the lighter positive terminal for the power. You need very little power to actually turn on the amp.

Make sure you put a good fuse as close to the battery as possible and use a good thick wire to the positive part of the amp.
The same for the ground.
Another thing I have learned is the shorter the wire the more power it will deliver.
If you want to spend a little more also invest in a small capacitor. I was surprised how much difference a small cheap one made on those hard deep bass bumps plus they also keep your lights from dimming when you crank it up.
I had previously bought a small cheap item from china that was billed as a gas saving item that you hook to your battery. It turned out to be a small chrome box with some small capacitors in it. It didn't help fuel economy but it really did seem to help with some of those odd electrical gremlins. I think it really just works by keeping enough a reserve charge so that when a cooling fan kicks on or something from pulling power from the computers.

I hated it coming on when listing to talk radio. Imagine Rush Limbaugh with booming going through town. LOL.

I put a 15" stealthbox in the center compartment with a nice JL speaker and an older 1000 watt ken wood amp Mounted behind the passenger seat, that I had lying around.
I grounded the amp on the seat bolt.
To test it just run a jumper wire from the hot terminal to the remote terminal on the amp.
That should kick it on

 

Thanks for all of the suggestions. It turns out the bolt from the hatch latch was not a good ground, so I grounded the amp to the seat bolt. I also used one of the 10 amp accessory fuses to supply power to the amp relay via an inline fuse. The upgrade was well worth the effort. I also added Sirius satellite radio. Now I'm ready to spend some quality time behind the wheel when I head to the C5/C6 birthday bash in less than four weeks.