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I installed the MGW Short-throw Shifter on my Z06 yesterday and am a little unsure about one thing that wasn't specifically mentioned in the installation instructions.
Seems that their design might have changed a bit as the top part (the part with the threaded column) is now an eccentric-mount design and is no longer made to fit right on top of the base. The pics in the install DVD shows a non-eccentric design that mounts on top of the base. Does anyone have any wisdom to impart as to which position is deemed to be the best? I had to mount it so that the threaded column is at the 6 o'clock position in order to get the panel back in place. I think it is probably be more of a personal prefence, but wanted to throw it out there for input.
Took it out for a quick drive after the install, and my initial impression is that it's definitely a shorter throw, less play, but also notchier than stock. Going from 1 through 4 is precise, but 5th is still a tad touchy (possibly operator error). Hopefully it will loosen up a bit with time.
I installed the mgw last week in my 2002z. I had the SAME EXACT question you have. the instructions for the c5 show the "old style" stick which was in the stock position, which mounted directlly on top of the base stick. the stick i got was similar to the one in their c6 shifter install directions. (it is their c5 handle, and it has the offset)
I had originally installed it with the offset facing towards the rear of the car. my arms are too long for that orientation, so i turned it 180 degrees and the offset is now in the front.
i called MGW and they said they don't have any old style sticks that would give same orientation that GM intended (the best in my opinion), but they do not have any. instead i was told they switched over to this style because it gives the driver more options for handle placement.
i may play with it some more (thats what she said). its a bit of a reach with the offset up front.
i do love the shifter, only had it in for a week though.
It's really easy to do. Just loosen the two torx and regular bolt a little bit after you put the shifter into neutral and push the pin down. When you removed the stock shifter, the pin probably came off with the shifter base.
I think, just based off of personal use, that the position closest to stock is with the offset in the 12 o clock position. The threaded portion closest to the radio. My 4th to 5th shift is still a bit tricky too, but I havent had much seat time with the shifter...maybe 300 miles. Still pretty notchy too but thats what I wanted anyway. Good luck!
I have the old style MGW, and this weekend I added a copper washer under the detent plug bolt (i.e Anti-Venum mod). It made a big difference - the shifts are smother, but still has positive engagement. A lot of people have added 2 washers, but the single washer did the trick for me. Although this transmission and shifter will never match the action of my old S2000, this is an improvement.
I have the old style MGW, and this weekend I added a copper washer under the detent plug bolt (i.e Anti-Venum mod). It made a big difference - the shifts are smother, but still has positive engagement. A lot of people have added 2 washers, but the single washer did the trick for me. Although this transmission and shifter will never match the action of my old S2000, this is an improvement.
Please humor a newbie and verbally walk me through this? I know it's probably too much to ask for pics.
It's really easy to do. Just loosen the two torx and regular bolt a little bit after you put the shifter into neutral and push the pin down. When you removed the stock shifter, the pin probably came off with the shifter base.
Originally Posted by txst
I have the old style MGW, and this weekend I added a copper washer under the detent plug bolt (i.e Anti-Venum mod). It made a big difference - the shifts are smother, but still has positive engagement. A lot of people have added 2 washers, but the single washer did the trick for me. Although this transmission and shifter will never match the action of my old S2000, this is an improvement.
I'm also a little unclear on this RPM mod. Please help a newbie out with some more clarification!!
It helped my car - the shifts aren't near as notchy. Again, I only used 1 washer. Just a word of caution - when re-installing the detent bolt, you have to compress the plunger a little to get the threads started.
It's really easy to do. Just loosen the two torx and regular bolt a little bit after you put the shifter into neutral and push the pin down. When you removed the stock shifter, the pin probably came off with the shifter base.
So I should remove the pin from the stock shifter or something of similar size and use it to do this adjustment? Sorry for the uneducated questions.
Let me please give you newer members a hint on how to find the answer to any question that's ever been asked/answered/debated on CF.
For C5 General questions, use search or search this forum (in the red banner). While most technical question research is best done in C5 Tech, many topics have been archived in C5 General for easy reference. Many past topics will come up in both sections.
Then there's C5 Tech questions, which is probably where most of newer owners will find more helpful in the learning process with their new C5/Z06. Same thing, use search or search this forum (in the red banner) of that particular section.
The trick is to use keywords which will yield the most "hits". If you're reading a discussion and you see "anti venom mod" or "neutral alignment procedure". Use those (or similar) as the keywords.
Then do your research with the hundreds of past discussions, many with full tutorials and many with bright digital images. You'll find answers to your questions faster now that many are out enjoying their cars instead of surfing the internet sites.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Apr 30, 2010 at 03:44 PM.
So I should remove the pin from the stock shifter or something of similar size and use it to do this adjustment? Sorry for the uneducated questions.
Shifter in neutral, push the pin down. The pin is an L shaped pin. Loosen the 3 bolts and the shifter box will move. Once it has moved, tighten the bolts to 22 lbs and then pull the pin up until the shifter can move once again.
Very easy to do.
I can disassemble the required components to change a shifter out in about 5 minutes. I've done it too many times.
The Z is on jack stands as the SSR wheels are in for re-conditioning/re-polishing so I decided to do the anti-venom mod. I used 1 M20 Dorman washer, which I think should work out fine as the MGW already feels a bit more loose than before. I will know for sure when I get my wheels back and can go for a test drive. I reckon the next step will be the RPM Trans adjustment just to cover all the bases.
So since the Z is on jack stands waiting for the wheels to come out of the shop...I'm doing busy work. Cleaned the undercarriage and wheel wells yesterday and took of the brake vent to sand it down to get rid of the pitting from 8 years of beating today. Ended up cleaning about 2lbs of dirt and crud out of the fenderwells . Give that a shot if you want to shave some weight!!