new guy with questions
Also , I test drove a 98(first Vette Ive ever driven) , with 86,000 miles on it . Handled awsome and the power was impressive . Even for a automatic with only 345 H.P. I was impressed . However , I found the ride to be like riding in a old Peterbuilt . Rough and stiff as all hell . Also , the road noise was insane but i guess thats why they have killer sound systems . I know it is a muscle car , so the ride really didnt surprise me much , but that road noise ! ! ! Man , almost unbearable . Is this normal ?
What the hell , I still want one , and in defense of the Vette , I could tell it was not adult owned . There were some detail issues , but really nothing major , I could just tell the car had not been pampered , which may be a factor .
Any way , thanks in advance for any input you all may have .





Much of the maintenance on the Corvette is no different than any other car - and it is pretty easy to do it yourself. There are lots of how-to's here on the forum. When you go to look at the cars, see if you can find out what maintenance has been done to the car - that will tell you how well it has been taken care of. Good luck with your search - and if you want a Corvette Buyer's Checklist - PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.






Also , I test drove a 98(first Vette Ive ever driven) , with 86,000 miles on it . Handled awsome and the power was impressive . Even for a automatic with only 345 H.P. I was impressed . However , I found the ride to be like riding in a old Peterbuilt . Rough and stiff as all hell . Also , the road noise was insane but i guess thats why they have killer sound systems . I know it is a muscle car , so the ride really didnt surprise me much , but that road noise ! ! ! Man , almost unbearable . Is this normal ?
What the hell , I still want one , and in defense of the Vette , I could tell it was not adult owned . There were some detail issues , but really nothing major , I could just tell the car had not been pampered , which may be a factor .
Any way , thanks in advance for any input you all may have .
To answer a couple of your questions and to address your concerns....
Ride can easily be attributed to OEM Goodyear EMT's. As they wear - the road noise and ride degrades to the point that you think you're in an ox-cart with wooden wheels. There are a number of tire choices that will dramatically improve the ride.
Also - you mentioned that the car had 86K on the clock - it might still have OEM shocks, which can be replaced with a shock like a Bilstein Sport shock.
As far as other maintenance issues - if you are slightly handy, and can read and follow directions and have some handtools with a garage or some place to work on your car, many of the upgrades and installs of things like air intakes, proper jacking of the vehicle etc. can be easily accomplished as D.I.Y. projects. You will learn a lot about the car, and save yourself some money - not to mention the satisfaction of doing it yourself. This forum is a very rich resource for information - to the point if you encounter an issue - it's more than likely been discussed and documented many times over. The search engine on the forum is a little difficult to use sometimes, but there is a ton of information in the archives.
Oil changes are 6.5 qts of synthetic, the car requires premium fuel - but other than that - it's not really any more expensive than any other car.
Good luck in your search for the right car, and the rule of thumb is to buy the lowest mileage, newest car you can afford. The newer models after 2001 had some features that were not even available on the earlier models - nothing against those cars - I own two '98s.
Shocks may be gone and if it had the Good Year Run Flats (EMT on the side walls) you can massively improve ride quality and road noise with either non run flats or any of several other brands of run flat type tires that are reasonably priced. Also the car may have been lowered which detracts from normal ride quality (but some think looks cool
)


Here are the big things I would look for in a 98-01. See if it had the column lock repaired from the dealer. VERY common problem, and will leave you stranded. Check to see if water blower out the AC after running awhile, in 99-00 they had a issue w/ not cutting a drain valve correctly and the water would fill up and spill on teh computer, leaving you stranded AGAIN. Look under the rear, see how leaky that rear case is. If it is CAKED and still spilling fresh fluid, then the axel seals are probally shot.
When you go to test drive another one, turn the key on, hold button #4 and press button #1 FOUR times, this will bring up the on board diagnostics. See if there are any codes, PCM= power control (motor) BCM= body control, SDM=airbags & safety devices, those are the big ones.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Yes , the tires were crap . A mis-matched set of firestones on the front , and goodyears on the back , bald as a babys butt . Original shocks for sure .
I do know what a wrench is , and how to use one , so axle seals , or the like wont be an issue . I Dont think I would take on a clutch though .
Hell or high water , Im gonna buy one anyway . NOT the one I test drove . Which was the first and only one I have driven . Ever .
Like I said it was a 98 with 86,000 for $13,000 . A true "10 footer" . I can get lower miles and better care(even up to a 02-03) for slightly under $20,000 which aint to bad I think .
And thanks for all the great input . Happy to be here . Thanks all .
Last edited by fishheadmafia; May 5, 2010 at 01:31 PM.
I agree about the runflats, ditch them and it will transform the ride.


Yes , the tires were crap . A mis-matched set of firestones on the front , and goodyears on the back , bald as a babys butt . Original shocks for sure .
I do know what a wrench is , and how to use one , so axle seals , or the like wont be an issue . I Dont think I would take on a clutch though .
Hell or high water , Im gonna buy one anyway . NOT the one I test drove . Which was the first and only one I have driven . Ever .
Like I said it was a 98 with 86,000 for $13,000 . A true "10 footer" . I can get lower miles and better care(even up to a 02-03) for slightly under $20,000 which aint to bad I think .
And thanks for all the great input . Happy to be here . Thanks all .

It was the first and only Vette I have ever driven . Not the one I want to buy .
Thanks again guys for quality input .
It was the first and only Vette I have ever driven . Not the one I want to buy .
Thanks again guys for quality input .
Maybe this is to maximize traction in freezing conditions. Haven't driven in WA in a while, but I don't remember the road noise to be as bad as OR.
and to the op u should also know that if u have selective ride control shocks will cost u lot more money, which is the main reason I have not gone to aftermarket shocks since mine only has 17k miles on them
To answer a couple of your questions and to address your concerns....
Ride can easily be attributed to OEM Goodyear EMT's. As they wear - the road noise and ride degrades to the point that you think you're in an ox-cart with wooden wheels. There are a number of tire choices that will dramatically improve the ride.
Also - you mentioned that the car had 86K on the clock - it might still have OEM shocks, which can be replaced with a shock like a Bilstein Sport shock.
As far as other maintenance issues - if you are slightly handy, and can read and follow directions and have some handtools with a garage or some place to work on your car, many of the upgrades and installs of things like air intakes, proper jacking of the vehicle etc. can be easily accomplished as D.I.Y. projects. You will learn a lot about the car, and save yourself some money - not to mention the satisfaction of doing it yourself. This forum is a very rich resource for information - to the point if you encounter an issue - it's more than likely been discussed and documented many times over. The search engine on the forum is a little difficult to use sometimes, but there is a ton of information in the archives.
Oil changes are 6.5 qts of synthetic, the car requires premium fuel - but other than that - it's not really any more expensive than any other car.
Good luck in your search for the right car, and the rule of thumb is to buy the lowest mileage, newest car you can afford. The newer models after 2001 had some features that were not even available on the earlier models - nothing against those cars - I own two '98s.

Very good advice








