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Ok my moms vettes has the 10 sec pull...i have looked and read and looked and read some more... this has the harnest gm put in.. here are pics... i found the beg and the plug put in pass foot area... i dont see where they disconnect and where u plug in the harness... there is BLACK TAPE EVERYWHERE... im guessing fine tuning from gm when they put the bypass... please tell me anything im overlooking and cant find...the beg wire runs into some plastic tube behind the radio. the end of harness on the pass side runs also behind the radio area..this the beg..of the harness that was hooked up to the wire that goes to the steering wheel
this is the "purple and white" wire
this is where the relay is that is the end...(top right)
Are you able to drive the car a few feet when you get what ever symptoms you are getting? Does the engine stall almost immediately once you try to move it????
Are you 100% absolutely positive no doubts whatsoever that the battery is good? If so how do you know that? ie what testing of the battery did you do??? ( Being able to start the car does not prove the battery is good.)
ok...my mom has 01 tr coupe 6sp...56105miles....the dash comes up pull key for 10sec...when turned on the fuel cutoff kicks in...gm got its dirty hands on it and removed locking device and installed harness...we told them to take there"fix harness" off and we would buy clb...they did and left harness in car... locked up again took it back harness was gone so we "assume" they installed it back in...i hooked cbl to the wires that are there and seems to be working fine. just a lil thought in back of mind if it will continue to work.. i took underdash apart on my vetter and the wires looked the same so i guess maybe they just kept the "fix harness"
ok...my mom has 01 tr coupe 6sp...56105miles....the dash comes up pull key for 10sec...when turned on the fuel cutoff kicks in...gm got its dirty hands on it and removed locking device and installed harness...we told them to take there"fix harness" off and we would buy clb...they did and left harness in car... locked up again took it back harness was gone so we "assume" they installed it back in...i hooked cbl to the wires that are there and seems to be working fine. just a lil thought in back of mind if it will continue to work.. i took underdash apart on my vetter and the wires looked the same so i guess maybe they just kept the "fix harness"
If you have the CLB connected to the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash then you have it installed correctly. Your picture shows one end of the GM K Harness ( female connector with only a white and a purple wire) but I cannot see the other end (male connetor) or the body of the relay which usually says TYCO on it. I assume that you disconnected BOTH ends of the K Harness. I cannot tell from your picures on the passenger side if the purple wire has been spliced opr not. Typically the car will have either the K Harness or the Spliced purple wire but NOT both. Also if you had the spliced purple wire and installed a CLB the CLB usually does not work correctly. Since the car is now driveable (no fuel shutoff and no error messages, you should be all set. As you said lots of black electrical tape. That is the handiwork of a dealer and not the factory. That kind of crap is why a dealer will never lay a hand on my car. Factory wiring is very neat and at least in mine it is mostly in black plastic car-flex to protect the wires.
The CLB should be all that you need. Some owners have the fuel shutoff reprogrammed to a high number like 200 mph but it really is not necessary as the CLB is a very reliable device unlike the crap from GM.
thats just it the "other end" of the harness runs into the back of the radio somehwere in a plastic tube.... i cant see the other end either.. i looked at the wiring in my car and NEAT WITH NOT A BUNCH OF TAPE lol but when gm was trying to fix i guess the bailout only allowed tape?!?!?!?! idk but its working so far just have a hint of damn im gonna go to work and get stranded...
ok mom is asking u see part of gms' harness... there is no spliced purple wire... the purple and white cords i believe are part of the k harness... do i have to unplug those? what i have unplugged.... the wire coming from the steering wheel to the harness... then plugged in clb... i cant see ANY OTHER ENDS! it all runs into the back of the radio.. i could not do anything else unless i rip out the entire radio console etc.. REALLY trying to avoid that but if has to be done then has to be done.
Notice that it has a female connector with only two wires (white and a purple) and a male connector with 4 wires and the gray relay. The relay usually gets tie wrapped to the side of the column. You should be able to see the male connector as well and it should have 4 wires. As long as the male connector of the K Harness is NOT plugged in you should be OK.
See comments in BLUE below:
Originally Posted by soada101
this is what i ended up doing. with the pics...
here is what i hooked the clb to ...
This looks like the correct connector to plug the CLB into. It has the clip that attaches it to the bottom of the dash and has 4 wires that go back to the BCM (in the passenger footwell).
i connected these back together....
The upper right connector looks like the female connector of the GM K Harness. Can't be certain from the picture but that is what I think it is. If you can follow it back it should go into a gray relay. The lower male connector could be from the Actuator. Do the wires from this male connector appear to go up into the column? If yes then that is what it is. If it is from the actuator I would just leave it disconnected completely.
(top right)i left alone...plugged in nothing done..
I cannot tell from your picture but this does NOT look like the relay that is a part of the spliced purple wire mod. If it were then the CLB usually does NOT work at all (ie you still have the fuel shutoff and the error messages in the DIC even though the CLB is connected). I suggest you leave it alone.
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Last edited by 8VETTE7; Jun 17, 2010 at 02:33 AM.
Reason: Spelling
when i go to my moms again i will look at that purple wire.. i know one end goes behind the radio... idk where the other end is.. i asked my mom and she said she believes it went to the column... so id just have to wait and see.. thanks for your help i will post back when i check... since im guessing that it is the k harness in there.... im gonna just take raido out and see... just tired of messing with it!
If your column is not locked then you don't have a column lock issue. The pull key wait 10 seconds is most likely because its not reading the resister in your key otherwise it will say service column lock.
You can have any tuner remove that feature with Hptuners or Efi Live. Good luck.
well it would lock up at first and say pull key.. then gm removed the lock..(my understanding put small so pin would not lock it... but if they didnt do that then it would still lock up...
well it would lock up at first and say pull key.. then gm removed the lock..(my understanding put small so pin would not lock it... but if they didnt do that then it would still lock up...
since i installed clb yes... before no.....but im trying to find the kharness because with it still in it can still "malfunction" every one says oh its right there under dash.. well the wires if it is the kharness runs to the back of the raido somehwere...
You never mentioned whether or not you are also getting the pull key message followed by service column lock message. They usually go hand in hand.
I think one poster was trying to point this out.
Try clearing the DTC codes, and if Mom has the other set of keys, try that set. It very well could be a security issue with the key and the fuel cutoff is doing its job to keep the vehicle from being stolen.
You've got some odd things going on with that wire harness. If the key is not the issue, then perhaps order a CLB from Corvettes of Houston and follow the instructions here remove that wire and install the CLB.
Remember to clear the codes and pull the correct fuse for the specified amount of time before you try it again. (See link for this info.)
You are familiar with accessing the DTCs and clearing them correct?
If your column is not locked then you don't have a column lock issue. The pull key wait 10 seconds is most likely because its not reading the resister in your key otherwise it will say service column lock.
You can have any tuner remove that feature with Hptuners or Efi Live. Good luck.
NOT according to the messages definition in the owners manual:
"PULL KEY - WAIT 10 SEC ( MANUAL TRANSMISSION ): If this message comes on, the steering column lock system has detected a problem while disengaging the steering column lock. The message may occur when the ignition key is removed and reinserted before the steering column lock systemfully locks or unlocks the steering column."
The security system reads the resistor on the key and if it fails to read or match the value of the resistor pellet on the key to the value stored ored in the PCM it disables the fuel and starter and turns on the security light solid. It also sets separate DTC's in the PCM than does the column lock system.
They are two separate systems. You can use a resistor wired to the ignition switch to bypass the security system. You need a CLB to bypass the column lock system.
ok.... just wow... to many diff things....anyone got some c4? and im not talking about a vette! lol umm... yes i know how to clear codes...no there isnt another key.. only one.. when parents got it the dbag deal was supposed to get another set but that never happend....soo if its a security thing..then the clb wont do anything? well after installing it with out taking the kharness out..it works....for a month it wouldnt do anything else i put it in (i believe attatched to kharness) and it fired up... didnt clear codes but i will walk mom through it so that can get done...on my off days im gonna rip the car apart and look for the kharness!
Also here is the Recall notice on the Steering Column Lock issue: SCL Recall
This is just the overview of it, I have the PDF (pm with addy if you want it) of the recall notice and I'm sure it can be found pretty easily if you search the net for its SB number 04006C. It is probably less that 20 pages long but is enlightening to see what the dealer may have when processing a claim years ago. Near the end it describes the procedure to re-pin the BCM connector and that could be another form of verification by examining the BCM connector. (You'll find that on page 15:16.)
ok.... just wow... to many diff things....anyone got some c4? and im not talking about a vette! lol umm... yes i know how to clear codes...no there isnt another key.. only one.. when parents got it the dbag deal was supposed to get another set but that never happend....soo if its a security thing..then the clb wont do anything? well after installing it with out taking the kharness out..it works....for a month it wouldnt do anything else i put it in (i believe attatched to kharness) and it fired up... didnt clear codes but i will walk mom through it so that can get done...on my off days im gonna rip the car apart and look for the kharness!
C4 LOL.
Yes definitely clear the codes and pull that fuse for the specified time period.
Early it was mentioned to verify the battery. In the recall notice you will see the primary reason of that issue is the result of low voltage on the bus. It can trigger it directly after or 10 days later. Not predictable. Also a fast start will do it too. Mine was set off by a battery that had went tango-uniform the next day. It ended up being a warning sign for me at the time, I thought everything was fine.
Oh so you have already installed a CLB module. Well your that much into the game now. Keep us posted.
If I remember correctly, the K harness must be removed for the CLB to function correctly. Disconnect and isolate.