After much procrastination, here it is--my write-up on how to install LEDs into the light-less C5 console compartment. This was one of my first mods and I must say, one of my favorites. Please read this entire article BEFORE you run out and start buying the materials listed below. Hope you enjoy this one. - Houston CoolArrow

You will need some basic tools that we "Man-Card" carrying guys all have on hand (screwdrivers, pliers, knives, a "D"-word [I''ll explain "D"-word later], etc.)

In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

1. Adhesive-backed 12v LED strip with approx. 18" lead wiring (I chose a white-colored 6-LED strip from AutoZone), your call as to color and LED quantity.

2. Approx. 24" of thin gage wire (20 ga +-).

3. Wire connector crimping tool

4. Momentary (a.k.a. plunger) switch available from most good-quality hardware stores.

5. One box of 20 ga bullet crimp connectors (Lowe's)

6. A couple of wire splice connectors (Wal-Mart)

7. Some Duct Tape (I know, this should have been listed above with "Man-Card" items)

8. Optionally, some black spray paint or a black, bold-tip "Sharpie" marker

Start by disconnecting the battery. I know that most of us real guys won't do this (I didn't either). If you don't, be prepared to replace a fuse or two (I fried 3 myself). That said, no further instructions on this matter...You'll have to be a big boy and know how to replace your own fuses. This would be a good time to spray paint black any exposed momentary switch areas that you'd like to see as black. Set it aside and let it dry while continuing with the console removal. As an alternative, you can use a Sharpie marker to color the surfaces. It's a little easier and cleaner, but the color will need occasional touching-up.

Next, remove the rear console. Not too much to this, just remove 4-10mm nuts (two at the rear of the console under the oval-shaped covers and two more under the Active Handling "A.H." cover. Remove the A.H. cover by gently prying up from the back side with a flat screwdriver (edge with the cell phone cord divot). Disconnect the electrical clips which connect the A.H., Air Bag light, etc.

Remove the console lid from its hinge (4-Phillips-head screws), console lid base from lid (6-Phillips-head screws) and console latch from lid base (2-Phillips-head screws).

Ok, I hate using the "D"-word with my Corvette, but I see no way of hiding the LED lead wire without "D"rilling a hole. Carefully, "D"-word a hole big enough for the female end of a bullet connector to fit through, into the passenger-side of the console, rear bolt cavity side. "D"-word slowly as there is another surface ahead of the "D"-word...you only need to penetrate the outside wall.

console hole




"D" word" a small hole into the base lid (only large enough to fit the LED lead) into the rear of the hinge indention.

lid hole



"D"-word another small hole (only large enough for the LED lead) into the driver-side lid base lock cavity. Go ahead and adhere the LED to the lid base and run the LED lead through the lock cavity hole.
Note: I located my LED strip close to the base lid edge so that when the console is opened, it will shine straight down.

adhere light


Route the LED lead along the outside and across the base lid and pass through the hole previously "D"-worded. Pull out any slack and intermittently tape the lead along the way to the lid base. Leave about 3"-4" of slack on the pulled end and crimp a male bullet connector to each lead.
Note: Remember the hole size being big enough to fit the female connector? This is so that if you ever need to remove the lid, it will pass back through.

One more use of the "D"-word (and the last time I'll use it). On the passenger side of the rear console, there is a flat, horizontal section that needs a hole to accommodate the momentary switch. Locating this hole about 4" forward of the hinge edge will probably be your best bet as this spot is under the hard plastic section of the lid base which will work well with the lid closed, dis-engaging the momentary switch. This hole needs to match the base of the switch, so pick out a small switch`(maybe the smallest one you can find) as the space underneath where the wires will connect is pretty tight.
Note: I highly recommend that you take a look at this area on your console beforehand and take it with you when you pick out the switch.

mswitch






Power will be obtained from the console cell phone socket wiring located in the A.H. well. Spice into the orange 12v lead and the black ground lead using two splice connectors. In each connector, include a short lead with a female bullet connector.

ah


Attach a red wire to the one side of the momentary switch, long enough to reach into the A.H. well and crimp a male bullet connector to it. On the other side of the momentary switch, run another red wire with a female-ended bullet connector to the male-ended LED lead. Leave plenty of slack in this wire for future lid removal. At this time, go ahead and prepare a black ground wire with a male bullet connector on one end and a female connector on the other. Match the slack length from the red wire and route the male end to the A.H. well and the female end to the male-ended LED connector.

Ok, now comes the fun part! With all of the lid components loose but together, plug all of the connectors into one another for a test. Reconnect the battery (yeah right...) and check it out. The LEDs should fire right up. Manually disengage the momentary switch to be sure the LEDs turn off. If nothing fires, check for good connections and/or shorts and replace the #1 (20 amp) fuse located under the foot well floor board on the passenger side.

After all testing passes, put the console back together and light up the night!

finish

 

Nice write up and pics explaining the process. I have often thought about this mod, however in the end, I've never acted on it because the only thing that even fits in my center console is the garage door opener and that's the only thing I have in it.

 

Nice writeup

 

Thanks....very nice write-up!

 

Nice job

is that the NEffy Wrap or the 3m carbon product?

 

Nice write up!

 

Thanks. The wrap is 3M's DiNoc Carbon Fiber Film. I love it!

 

Thanks. The wrap is 3M DiNoc Carbon Fiber Film. As you can tell, I love it!

 

Great write up - I saved this for future reference.

 

Great DIY!

 

Price? Where did you buy it and what size?

You have inspired another DIY for me any tips?

Mario

 

Nice.....where did you get your switch? Good-quality hardware store?

 

what will we think of next. You have the siknus man, awesome

 

Glad you like! You will need about 16 sq ft to do everything. The best price I have found is about $100 for that amount of material. This will cover the rear console, front console, door bezels, seat adjustment bezels, seat feet, A/C vents, vanity mirrors. The best advice I can give you is to take your time and start with something easy, like the seat feet. Use a good hair dryer for heat, that my friend is the secret.


Feel free to email me for more info. I have more pics if you'd like to see.

 

it looks great. my order already shipped.

 

Thanks for the info!

Looks great and at a fraction of Hydro coating and its reversible!

Mario

 

I got the switch at a local hardware store here in Houston called "Jed's Hardware". I looked at Lowe's, but their selection was somewhat limited. I was going to look at Home Depot, but I found what I was looking for at Jed's...never went to Home Depot. I'm pretty sure that I kept the package that the switch came in just for a case such as this. I'll look for it tonight.

You will need to look for it at a store that is big and diverse with their stock. Start your search by asking for a "refrigerator light switch" or for a "plunger/momentary switch" at your store. - Mike

 

Here is the switch I used. You will need to buy one more nut. (one below the console and one above).

 

good stuff

 

Thanks, Mike.