Unhooked the battery as recommended and clear all the old codes. Standing by for the Gremlins to re-appear...

Will also have to find some time to examine those grounding points.

 

Well...the Damn Gremlins are back.

I checked the codes right after it cranked and died and none appeared.

Move on to the grounding points?

 

I don't think you have a grounding problem as the car starts then dies.

Correct?

If you turn the ignition on you should hear the fuel pump running.

It is located left rear.

You might have a plugged up fuel filter.

Try wiggling the key switch when you have it started.

It's a bitch if your doing this by yourself.

 

Correct. It fires up then immediately dies out.

Correct. It is a bitch to chase Gremlins by myself given my limited experience, but I do enjoy the learning experiences. May have to make a drive to Torrance to seek out your assistance if this continues.

 

If it runs fine (when it finally runs) then the fuel filter is probably good and it is back to electrical troubleshooting.

If you need help, I am almost always around (retired ).

Worse case (your stuck), I can make a trip to Long Beach.

What year is your car?

 

'02 Quicksilver Z. I should be able to make it to Torrance 'cause once it fires up, there are no issues. I'll pick a day and PM ya.

Thanks!

 

I would wiggle and bang on stuff while it is idling and see if you can get it to die.

The multi pin connectors used for the ground connections are a known weak spot, so who knows, you may have an intermittent ground.

Can't do much other then that when its' running.

 

The problem is with the ignition switch or the VATS. The PCM will shut off the fuel system if it does not receive the correct security passcode from the BCM.

When you first turn the car on without actually starting it you will hear the fuel pumps prime the fuel system. This all happens simultaneously when you got to start the car. But since your car is not receiving correct information the PCM is turning off the fuel injectors and the engine does not run.

I know this because my car is doing this right now. I have removed my ignition switch twice and the issue goes away for about 3-4 weeks before returning. I just haven't figured out the cause so I am going to keep at it until I figure out what expensive part must be replaced before spending the money. I have already removed and reseated the grounding wires at six of the major related areas.

If your car is a daily user then you will want to remove the passenger side floorboard access panel to get to the BCM and see if there is any moisture or water intruding in there. Would be a good time to just disconnect the harnesses and inspect them for corrosion with a flashlight (free diagnostic check).

When I am having my little gremlin attack I try to start the car and nothing happens except all the lights work, guages do the calibration sweep but no crank or start at all. I wait the three minutes and then try again and the car starts. This results in a code being set. My notes are at home but it is a B code and most of the time a P prefixed code as well. If I reset the codes manually using the DIC then occassionally the car will crank over and then immediately die. (Sounds to me the situation you are describing).

If you don't have the 3 vol service manuals you should get a set as it will at least explain some of what is going on in your car and might point you to a related system issue. We will help you out here all we can as that is what the forum is all about, but the more familiar you are with the systems the better you will be able to help yourself and others.

It is not a fuel filter or spark plug problem, I will guarantee you that. It is either a worn out key, VATS thing, ignition switch or wiring problem between those systems required to communicate during the starting process.

One of these days I am going to fix mine permanently but it will take a bit more troubleshooting on my part because the parts to just replace all possible items is lots of $$$$$$ I would rather spend on mods. For now I just wait three minutes and then off we go when it does happen.

 

Good points!

Shouldn't the "security light" go on ?

 

Thanks for the detailed advice. Damn Gremlins!!! It isn't a daily driver by any means. I'll try my second set of keys for awhile to put the potential worn out key to bed until I free up some time to dig further. Good luck with yours.

 

Bill Curlee's posts helped me solve my ignition switch problem.

 

I have tried the key swapping thing as well, but it doesn't work. That is why I have not followed the advice of the service manual and had a new key cut ($50). I do not believe both keys are bad at the same time.

Since I have removed the ignition switch and cleaned the contacts twice now. That only makes it go away for a few weeks. I think it only lasts that long since it is not a daily driver.

Optima battery is now four years old but it was doing it when the battery was only 1 year old as well so that ain't it either. I have 12.5 volts on the DIC at startup and then it goes to 14.1 once the alternator starts working.

I did have a thought...remove the console and knee bolster so I can get to the ignition switch when it happens to check the voltages and other items.

Oh, I did an ohm check on my key pellet 888 ohms. Inserted the key and did the test again, got the same ohm reading each and every time. That is why I do not suspect the actual key lock portion of the switch. That green area with the contacts that get burnt is another matter. Bet we wouldn't be suffering this issue if these cars had the same push button system as the C6...or maybe we would.....

 

Well...I switched to my spare set of keys and so far the gremlins have not returned. I'll keep on this to see if a worn out key was the culprit. Will advise.

 

That is probably it... Good call on the vats if it does work out

 

One can only hope. Damn Gremlins...

 

It's been almost week now with the spare key and the gremlins have not reared their ugly heads. Seems to be a worn out key. Bought a new key on Flea-Bay and waiting for it to arrive.

 

i recently tried to use my spare key and the dash lights came on, fuel pump ran but no cranking by starter. i first thought i had a weak battery but decided to try the other key and it started no problem. then i remembered that when i bought this car it was missing one key fob. i went to the chevy dealer and got a key fob and they supposedly programmed it while i watched but i guess i never tried it out. i think they didn't do it right. i'm going back there to have them do it again.
you might try having your key fob reprogrammed. could be as simple as that.

 

Looks like I got the Gremlins beat this time. The new key came and even with the naked eye you can tell the difference between the chips. Got the key cut and thus far, zero starting issues!!

 

That's good hope you have no more problems.