A/C issues, blows cold on Driver's side, hot on passanger side.
#1
Racer
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A/C issues, blows cold on Driver's side, hot on passanger side.
Basically with the A/C on the 1 vent on the driver's side and main center vent blow cold air. The 2 pass side vent's blow max heat, car has dual zone climate and the pass setting is to it's lowest. Here's a list of what I've done to this point. Car is a 98 C5 Coupe.
1. Vaccumed down A/C system and recharged, while checking for leaks before refillilng.
2. Swapped out HVAC box [not sure what you call it but the thing in the center that you set temp and mode for A/C]. Put the 1 from my Z06 in this car to see if maybe it was the box but it didn't make any difference.
3. Pulled the fuse behind the kickpanel for the HVAC, unhooked the battery overnight, have done this several times to try and get it to reset.
At this point I'm running out of ideas and wanted to run this by you guys to see if you had any thoughts. I am going to try and check all of the vaccum lines on the car today.
Thanks in advance!
1. Vaccumed down A/C system and recharged, while checking for leaks before refillilng.
2. Swapped out HVAC box [not sure what you call it but the thing in the center that you set temp and mode for A/C]. Put the 1 from my Z06 in this car to see if maybe it was the box but it didn't make any difference.
3. Pulled the fuse behind the kickpanel for the HVAC, unhooked the battery overnight, have done this several times to try and get it to reset.
At this point I'm running out of ideas and wanted to run this by you guys to see if you had any thoughts. I am going to try and check all of the vaccum lines on the car today.
Thanks in advance!
#3
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
"I voluntarily took 60 days off from OT"
Yep...guarantee you it's the actuator....It's an electronic device that moves the blend door from hot to cold....It's not easy to get to unless youre a contorsionist....It's up above the passenger hush panel bolted to the passenger side of the heater plenum....you'll need a 5.5mm socket to remove it ...Theyre pricey little buggars too....it only measure about 3x3 inches...
#4
Drifting
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OPPS, SILLY ME
I sent you a reply to your PM, and I'll post it here
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...but-wrong.html
I sent you a reply to your PM, and I'll post it here
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...but-wrong.html
#6
Racer
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Guys thanks for the guidance but I'm aliitle confused now. I have decided to go ahead and replace both the Drivers side and Pass side actuators when I go in there.
I must be looking at something wrong cuz I have seen several people talk about how expensive they are but when I went to GMpartshouse.com they only have 1 actuator listed for a 98 and it's only $21. I'm pretty sure I'm not looking at the right part cuz I don't see people complaining about a $21 part. They are listed under the A/C components for a 98. Any chance somebody has the part #'s for the drivers and pass side actuators?
Thanks again.
I must be looking at something wrong cuz I have seen several people talk about how expensive they are but when I went to GMpartshouse.com they only have 1 actuator listed for a 98 and it's only $21. I'm pretty sure I'm not looking at the right part cuz I don't see people complaining about a $21 part. They are listed under the A/C components for a 98. Any chance somebody has the part #'s for the drivers and pass side actuators?
Thanks again.
#7
I had the exact same problem this past week too. I have some warranty left, so I took it to the dealer. It was the right accuator. They billed the warranty company $264 for the part and $300 to install.
#9
Safety Car
You haven't answered the question....Did you run the codes in the DTC/DIC ? If you run the codes and reset the HVAC codes you'll hear the HVAC system cycle. It may fix your problem.
#10
Team Owner
The actuators are cheap but a beotch to get to...I replaced the control unit in my 99 with one from an 04...paid $125 from a forum member...solved my problem. The newer control units have a logic circuit that adjusts for bad actuators.. just FYI
#11
Racer
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Sorry, yes I did run the codes, got a B0367. Went to Advance this evening and picked up both actuators, 1 was about $150 and the other was $40. Gonna pull the dash out tomorrow and swap them both out, we'll see how it goes.
#12
Safety Car
Before you start you should try a reset and see if that works, nothing to loose since you have the new parts. Good luck on your job ahead.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
"I voluntarily took 60 days off from OT"
You dont have to pull the dash....Just the lower panel on the driver's side and the hush panel on the passenger side..
#14
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Well, it's done. I went ahead and pulled the dash and was glad I did in the end. I've pulled dashes on other trucks/cars to replace heater cores and evaporators before. Gotta say the C5 dash cap comes out fairly easily compared to some of the other stuff I have messed with. Long story short I ended up swapping both the drivers and pass sides blend actuators. Everything was straight forward and I really appreciate all the help/info I got from everybody on this forum.
One note, while I was doing this I decided to go ahead and change the plugs and wires. Boy that driver's side plug against the firewall is a PITA! Plugs and wires is a job in itself and should not be coupled with any other maintance esp not in the summer heat!
One note, while I was doing this I decided to go ahead and change the plugs and wires. Boy that driver's side plug against the firewall is a PITA! Plugs and wires is a job in itself and should not be coupled with any other maintance esp not in the summer heat!