Ok I bit the bullet and got my vacuum leak fixed. A/C blows like it should and there is no check engine light in 75 miles (B0410 code). My inspection is expired and I didn't bother getting it done until the repairs were done. So I drove to the Inspection station after leaving the shop and the drive is about 25 miles. The car didn't pass. Three "not ready" results.

Catalyst: - Not ready
Evap: - Not ready
2nd Sys: - Not ready

The guy asks if I had the battery disconnected and I say yes. He said put another 50 miles on it and it should be fine. Bring it back and I'll recheck it. So I put exactly 50 miles on it (plus the initial 25 from the repair shop) and I still have these three "not ready" results. No sticker for me and back in my garage she goes. I have not driven it for a month and I hate paying for a car I can't drive. Any suggestions? If the components are actually BAD, will they give a "not ready" result or d I just need to drive it more?

 

How many days has it been when you hooked up your battery?
I would give it a good week.
Bill

 

Leak was repaired at noon, inspection at 1:30 and again at 2:30. I was just reading about "drive cycles" and it looks like that may be the solution but I am racing the clock. Inspections stop at 5:00 and the cycle has to begin with a "cold" start.

 

I wouldn't waste my time going back today if you just hooked up the battery a couple hours ago. I really think you need more time than that for everything to relearn.

 

Everyone things cycles is the number of times you shut the car down, let it cool and then restart. Its really over a period of several days sometime more. Don't just start and stop it either you may need to drive it a couple of hundred miles during all the various cycles in order to get the all clear.

 

I think this is correct.

It can vary but from what I've read...an actual full "driving cycle" to re-learn or whatever takes quite a few little things happening before it's complete. It's nothing crazy, just standard driving but I'd really give it like 100 miles or so of varied driving before you worry

 

Thank goodness Louisiana only checks if lights, brakes and horn works.

 

Your fuel tank MUST be less then 3/4 full before it runs the EVAP test... I found this out this spring...

Toque

 

I guess I'll take my chances with the LEOs and get some time behind the wheel and try again next weekend.

Thanks all.

 

As per GM :

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup.

Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

 

If these steps are not done in sequence, are they still diagnosed and logged? In other words, did my 50 mile trip eliminate some of the items, and a cold start right now ticks off another and so on until all are addressed?

 

Thanks for the procedure, Toque. Saved it for future use.

 

I am not sure, but I hear it needs to be done in order.

Here is a link I found to a site that lists it also
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

Toque

 

Thanks !

Second question, will the AutoZone code readers pick these "not ready" results up? Could I have them check it before I go back to the inspection station?

 

I think they can... I hear that there are hand helds that can determine your not ready codes quickly.

Toque

 

....hell, they checked my Driver's License and Proof of Insurance.....gave them my money and the sticker went on.....

I don't agree with it....I wish they would have SOME enforcement to keep the **** cars off the roads....

 

Yeh, but all that stuff about some goofy code in the computer that you have to spin around on your head 50 times to turn off is BS! IMHO

 

If I remember correctly, when mine wasn't ready, it had a P1000 code which meant not all self tests were completed yet. The code cleared when it was ready to be tested.

 

Update: I think I covered every area of the drive cycle today. I took a 140 mile round trip and pretty much did everything on the list twice. Interesting thing. On my way back, I did a bit of spirited passing and on two occasions my CEL blinked three times and stayed off. I checked the codes and the HVAC had three history codes. 0361 0363 and 0441. I reset/cleared them and they came back. Probably takes a while for those to clear and that's ok since every feature of the AC seems to be working. I am puzzled by the three flashes of the CEL on two occasions. The first time I was accelerating pretty hard and then let off the gas, the next time I came up behind traffic and downshifted (evn though it is an auto) instead of braking and it did it again. Any ideas forum members? It acts as though it is linked to the purge function, but I have no codes aside from the history AC codes.

 

If you clear ANY CODES, the I/M monitors will also RESET. The cheapy handheld OBD readers like Actron will show you Rediness status of these monitors, the built in DIC will NOT.

Typically a flashing MIL/CEL light is indicative of misfires.