I have a 2002 convertible and I've started having some intermittent problems with the drivers door lock. It does not alway lock or unlock when using the button on the door itself or the remote.

I listened very carefully today and I can hear a noise from inside the door. It is very faint, like a relay engaging. When the door lock finally does move after several tries there is the familiar sound of the lock engaging or unlocking.

Anyone have any similar experience who can suggest either a possible fix or what kind of cost I would be looking at?

 

Must be the door lock control module is on it's last leg. You can take it out and replace the faulty part in the module. There's a great thread here somewhere that has step by step pictures of doing this.

 

Had similar issues with windows, memory seats, etc. Turned out to be the battery. Replaced it and all's well.

 

Both drivers and passenger locks only worked sporadically. My problem was two defective relays in the drivers side DCM. This seemed to also some how have an affect on the passengers side locks, although the wiring schematic looks like that isn't possible. Both worked sporadically, but once the drivers side was repaired they both work every time. Just a coincidence? Makes no difference now that they both work every time. Hope my luck continues.

 

Tech forum/DYI/Post #32: link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...iy-thread.html

Door Lock / Window fix...

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Thanks to forum member Bakersfield for this one



Ok boys and girls, step right in, class is about to start. I am sure most of you guys have read posts about windows not working or door locks not working properly. Today, we are going to learn how to fix those pesky door lock and window problems. At least as far as the control module goes. This is not to say there could be other problems, but this is how to fix the weakest part of the whole system, a bad relay. What I want to do is show you how to get to the control module and then identify which relays are for what function.

Required tools: Flat blade screw driver, number 15 and number 30 Torx drives, a fork like prying tool , (sorry I don’t know the proper name of this tool), soldering iron, solder sucker, and solder.

Step 1: Today, we are working on the passenger door. Remove the little plastic cover plate behind the door pull. It pops out with the screw driver.
Step 2: Using a number 30 Torx drive, remove the two screws that holds the door panel to the door.



Step 3: Using a flat blade screw driver, pry up on the window/door lock control panel. Lift up from the front as shown. Remove wiring connector and set the control panel somewhere safe.



Step 4: Using a flat blade screw driver, pop out the plastic piece that surrounds the door handle.



Step 5: Now, we are ready to remove the door panel.



Using the fork like tool



start at the rear of the door panel where the two halves meet.



Insert the fork like tool in and pry the panel away from the door. Work your way around to the front top part of the door panel. There are 6 pins that fit into little sockets in the door. Now, lift up on the door panel and remove it.



Step 6: Use a number 15 Torx drive and remove the two screws that hold the door control module in place.



Step 7: Remove the wiring connectors that attach to the door control module. Now, look at the edge of the enclosure and pop open the tabs that hold it closed and remove the circuit board.




Look at this last picture and it will show you which relay control the windows and door locks.



Step 8: After pre-heating your soldering iron, use the soldering iron and solder sucker to unsolder the 5 pins from the relay you want to replace. Everything on the circuit board is coated with a plastic film, you will have to use a small knife blade, or small blade screw driver, and cut around the relay before you try to pry the relay off of the circuit board. I found the same film on the solder side of the board as well. If you scrape off some of that plastic film before you apply the soldering iron, you will have better success at unsoldering the pins.

Step 9: After the relay is replaced, re-assemble everything. Be sure to note where the wiring connectors plug back into. The plastic housing is marked for the correct color of the wiring plug.

The Digi-Key part number for the door relay is 255-1240-ND and you can find it at www.digiking,com. Last time I looked, they had 1100 in stock.

I hope this helps you guys that have intermittent door locks or you can hear a clicking sound but the window doesn’t go up or down. From start to finish, this project took me about an hour. Heck, it took me longer to do this write up than it did fixing my door lock. But, hey, that is what Corvette Forum buddies are for. If you have any questions, send me a PM. Good luck.


This added by Bill Curlee:

There is a very common issue with both door control wiring harnesses. It will cause one or both doors to malfunction. The symptoms vary but if you have any door control issues, here is a quick and easy check and a fix:

There are TWO wiring harnesses in each door and they connect to connectors inside the door frame through the accordion tube. The accordion tube can be easily removed (it just pops in and out) and the harnesses and connectors can be pulled up and out of the door frame. If your door control modules ever stop working, grab the black accordion tube and shake it while you hold the window up or down button. If it fixes the issue, you need to inspect the harness connectors. If id doesnt fix the issue, it still a good idea to pop the harness out and see if yours is faulty.

What normally happens is the serial buss wire sheaf pulls out of the connector and the bare wire grounds out.

Here are pictures of the accordion tube removed on both ends and the harness with the bare wire:





You can pull the sheaf back down and tape it in place.

 

I followed his directions and the part cost me $1.16 to fix. Good luck

 

PM sent

 

do you mean digikey.com for purchasing the relay?

 

digi-key doesn't have those relays. I haven't been able to find them any place that doesn't sell in bulk. If you find them, please let me know too. Thanks

 

Try again here: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...0-nd&WT.srch=1

Shows 12,005 available. $1.67 each.

 

It sure does. I'll have the electronics tech try and order them again tomorrow. I don't think it was my module now though. My car is throwing codes left and right. The whole door goes dead. Some of the codes says data shorted to ground, date shorted to hot, among others. So far I haven't found anything that I could say that was it. After I drove to work today I only have 2 codes so I must be helping .

 

subscribed!

 

My fob only works when it wants to. The button inside work fine

 

That link doesn't work post #32 is "Popping rear axle fix" .here is what you need
http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#DCM Thanks to Lucky for his post from another thread

 

Hello Everyone

I realize this is an old thread but it applies to the problem I have.
In my situation both driver and the passenger door will lock using the remote or driver and passenger power lock buttons.
The passenger door will NOT unlock using the remote or power door unlock buttons on the driver and passenger doors.

Why doesnt the unlock work?
Could there be a module on the door electrical board that has failed?


Thank you