Broken shifter linkage fix with pics!
09-21-2014, 07:03 PM
#21
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Valrico FL
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I pulled the shifter back out and tried to move the cable with just my hand and it bends over on itself (where the plastic broke) and doesn't move back into gear unless I manipulate it kind of holding the guide plastic while pushing the cable in.
I was hoping it wasn't the guide breaking but it was. I just wish there was some way to fix it as opposed to tearing the whole thing apart.
09-21-2014, 09:08 PM
#22
Interesting R2R. I did still put mine back together but it doesn't seem to go into gear (and it never allowed the vehicle to start so I am thinking it isn't engaging the neutral saftey switch.
I pulled the shifter back out and tried to move the cable with just my hand and it bends over on itself (where the plastic broke) and doesn't move back into gear unless I manipulate it kind of holding the guide plastic while pushing the cable in.
I was hoping it wasn't the guide breaking but it was. I just wish there was some way to fix it as opposed to tearing the whole thing apart.
I pulled the shifter back out and tried to move the cable with just my hand and it bends over on itself (where the plastic broke) and doesn't move back into gear unless I manipulate it kind of holding the guide plastic while pushing the cable in.
I was hoping it wasn't the guide breaking but it was. I just wish there was some way to fix it as opposed to tearing the whole thing apart.
09-21-2014, 10:00 PM
#23
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Valrico FL
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So I ordered a cable this evening ($60) and will tackle this next weekend. (Work gets in the way of my playing with cars) I searched for a cable that might be deemed stronger or better than OEM but apparently they don't exist. If they made one with metal guide tubes as opposed to plastic, I'd have gotten one.
I'm dreading getting under the car and pulling the exhaust as I image the bolts won't come off easy. Probably spray the daylights out of them with penetrant and let them set a while before removal.
Too bad there are no mods I want to make under the car or now would be the time. BUT, since I have the dash apart to have removed the shifter, I am going to pull out my cd player and fix it as well as install the ipod cable I have had for over a year in the box yet no time to install.
06-27-2015, 05:42 PM
#24
Not to open old thread again but anyway...I'm new here and I just had this same problem happen yesterday. And did all these steps without knowing about this thread. I popped the bushing into place with a pair of channel locks and popped the shifter into the bushing with a pair of channel locks also. pressed until I heard snap! But I also made the mistake of pulling on the linkage cable to hard upwards and snapped something. I'm assuming its some kind of hard plastic that goes around the linkage or something..anyway.. it still shifts fine.. I didn't take any pics but if I did they would almost look identical to ones posted here.. This was an easy inexpensive fix compared to what I've read the alternative would be..
06-27-2015, 07:28 PM
#25
Not to open old thread again but anyway...I'm new here and I just had this same problem happen yesterday. And did all these steps without knowing about this thread. I popped the bushing into place with a pair of channel locks and popped the shifter into the bushing with a pair of channel locks also. pressed until I heard snap! But I also made the mistake of pulling on the linkage cable to hard upwards and snapped something. I'm assuming its some kind of hard plastic that goes around the linkage or something..anyway.. it still shifts fine.. I didn't take any pics but if I did they would almost look identical to ones posted here.. This was an easy inexpensive fix compared to what I've read the alternative would be..
08-16-2015, 03:29 PM
#26
Advanced
You know sometimes it's good to re-open an old thread.
Just yesterday after I pulled into the drive, put the car in park and UH OH!!!! I'm in reverse and can't get out. Had a bad sinking feeling something really bad has gone wrong. Was able to get into drive and parked in garage.
I then went to my favorite sight to do some research and here was a perfect description of what happened and what to do. Had to do a bit more research on how to open up everything, but this thread and pictures was spot on. Once I disassembled the shifter assembly, looked in and there was the broken bushing.
Trip to AutoZone and $6.50 later my ride is running smoothly again.
Now I need to worry about the Tranny end of the cable. Project for another day when it's a bit cooler outside.
Thanks to all who put this together making for an easy repair.
Just yesterday after I pulled into the drive, put the car in park and UH OH!!!! I'm in reverse and can't get out. Had a bad sinking feeling something really bad has gone wrong. Was able to get into drive and parked in garage.
I then went to my favorite sight to do some research and here was a perfect description of what happened and what to do. Had to do a bit more research on how to open up everything, but this thread and pictures was spot on. Once I disassembled the shifter assembly, looked in and there was the broken bushing.
Trip to AutoZone and $6.50 later my ride is running smoothly again.
Now I need to worry about the Tranny end of the cable. Project for another day when it's a bit cooler outside.
Thanks to all who put this together making for an easy repair.
08-22-2015, 10:59 PM
#27
This just happened to me today. 73 miles from home, in a hotel parking lot, celebrating the wife's birthday.
I remembered we have roadside with Nationwide. Apparently, 'Plus' coverage. Which covers 100 miles of towing.
The car is currently in the driveway. I have the new bushings in hand. Tomorrow is a new day...
I remembered we have roadside with Nationwide. Apparently, 'Plus' coverage. Which covers 100 miles of towing.
The car is currently in the driveway. I have the new bushings in hand. Tomorrow is a new day...
11-18-2015, 01:56 PM
#29
Melting Slicks
I just did the fix at the bottom of the auto shifter. I viewed a youtube video by 'froggy' to see how to remove all the trim and housing stuff. Straightforward as the video shows where the hidden screws are located. Once you get the trim loose you will need to move the shifter backward to get the big piece of trim out of the way. Once at the shifter just remove the 10mm nuts (4x), you will have to take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry the small cable up and out of its retainer (this is the one that goes toward the front of car)to get to 10mm nut located at the top left. Gently pull the auto shifter up to witness whether the linkage has come off the ball. If so, lift the shifter assy (you do not have to take boot or shift button off) up and out of the way. Pull the shifter cable - big cable with rubber conduit over it - upward and make sure to remove all broken junk out of the socket. NOTE: if you have to move the car you can pull and push this rubber covered cable into any gear you want to start the car and move it. For the fix: Use the next to the smallest bushing from the Dorman 14041 pack. I snapped it, tapered end first into the cable with a pair of pliers and then could not get the shifter ball to snap in place. So, I pried the bushing out with a small screwdriver and promptly dropped it straight down into the torque tube chamber. Long thin electricians screwdriver reached down there and I was able to wiggle it back up to me. So then I snapped the bushing onto the ball end of the shift lever, again with some pliers for leverage, because that dang thing is hard to snap on. Next, I rolled the shift lever down into place and used the pliers again to snap the cable onto the shifter with the bushing on it. About 2 hours total work start to finish. I have new bushing on both ends now. Hope they last another 15 years.
11-18-2015, 02:18 PM
#30
It can be done from the top side. It is a very tight fit. If I remember correctly it is the second to largest bushing. It is very hard to press in the cable end.
I did mine from the top only. Be careful when pulling on the cable from the top side though, if you hear a loud crack or pop....... time for a new cable.
I did mine from the top only. Be careful when pulling on the cable from the top side though, if you hear a loud crack or pop....... time for a new cable.
11-18-2015, 02:25 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
It can be done from the top side. It is a very tight fit. If I remember correctly it is the second to largest bushing. It is very hard to press in the cable end.
I did mine from the top only. Be careful when pulling on the cable from the top side though, if you hear a loud crack or pop....... time for a new cable.
I did mine from the top only. Be careful when pulling on the cable from the top side though, if you hear a loud crack or pop....... time for a new cable.
11-18-2015, 02:30 PM
#32
You're doing it correct, or how I did it anyway. You almost have to set the selector all the way down in the console, slide your right hand in or a long screwdriver to the right of the selector and use leverage to press the cable onto the selector.
Like I said, don't pull up on the cable trying to get it to reach the selector.... don't ask me how I know this.
Like I said, don't pull up on the cable trying to get it to reach the selector.... don't ask me how I know this.
11-18-2015, 04:18 PM
#33
Melting Slicks
You're doing it correct, or how I did it anyway. You almost have to set the selector all the way down in the console, slide your right hand in or a long screwdriver to the right of the selector and use leverage to press the cable onto the selector.
Like I said, don't pull up on the cable trying to get it to reach the selector.... don't ask me how I know this.
Like I said, don't pull up on the cable trying to get it to reach the selector.... don't ask me how I know this.
11-18-2015, 04:24 PM
#34
I must admit, I just realized this is in the C5 forum.... I have a C6. I'm guessing there is a difference somewhere?????
Sorry if I misled you.
Sorry if I misled you.
11-18-2015, 05:23 PM
#35
Melting Slicks
11-18-2015, 09:58 PM
#36
Advanced
I did same thing not long ago. I struggled at first trying to figure out how to get the leverage to press it on. Took me a bit but finally figured out using an old wood handle off a garden tool to press/snap it on.
It was about 1 inch by 1 inch and foot long. I carefully lined up the cable with the bushing held against the shifter. Took some work but found the right angle and used the wood to press the cable against it until I heard/felt it snap in place. You will have some trials trying to figure it out, but it can be done.
You must be very careful during all this and not lift or bend the cable. If you do and hear a snap - time for a new cable.
Wish you luck and a fast repair.
11-18-2015, 10:29 PM
#37
it was a really big pain in the rear for me as well. The car sat all week in the drive way with me trying to get that plastic and socket snapped together a little every day. I ended up crushing the socket side a little in the process and had to 5 minute epoxy the plastic piece into the ball end. I took some vice grips and pulled the cable up until I was afraid to pull anymore and held it in place. Then i took some 6" channel lock adjustable pliers and snapped the ball end into the socket. I don't remember but I think its easiest with the car in either park or 1st it slides the lever back farthest towards you.
11-21-2015, 10:11 PM
#38
Melting Slicks
Well I got the linkage at the front fixed today. I had to drop the pipes & heat plate to get to the POS (used 2 wheel ramps & jack stands on the back end so I could get my creaky *** body under there) It was pretty straight forward. Got it all buttoned up THAN go to start & message "Pull key & wait 10 seconds". shut it off & key would not come out off ignition switch. Played with the shift **** & bingo out it comes , happened again. Pulled shift **** off & back to normal. I find that the post that comes out of center of shifter doesn't spring back high enough & it thinks its still in park. I loaded it with silicon spray and jiggled the chit out of it, but still an issue. Any ideas why this thing is hanging up on me like that? I will need to pull out the plastic covers again & boot cover and see if anything is physically causing it to do this. Its an C5 A4 auto . I have the after market shift **** thingamajig that will let use change shift ***** like a stick. Had it on for several years without any problems??
11-22-2015, 11:33 AM
#39
Melting Slicks
Update
Well I got the linkage at the front fixed today. I had to drop the pipes & heat plate to get to the POS (used 2 wheel ramps & jack stands on the back end so I could get my creaky *** body under there) It was pretty straight forward. Got it all buttoned up THAN go to start & message "Pull key & wait 10 seconds". shut it off & key would not come out off ignition switch. Played with the shift **** & bingo out it comes , happened again. Pulled shift **** off & back to normal. I find that the post that comes out of center of shifter doesn't spring back high enough & it thinks its still in park. I loaded it with silicon spray and jiggled the chit out of it, but still an issue. Any ideas why this thing is hanging up on me like that? I will need to pull out the plastic covers again & boot cover and see if anything is physically causing it to do this. Its an C5 A4 auto . I have the after market shift **** thingamajig that will let use change shift ***** like a stick. Had it on for several years without any problems??
11-23-2015, 09:18 AM
#40
Burning Brakes
The HVAC panel illumination bulbs are a separate issue from the display panel. IIRC there are 14 tiny incandescent bulbs for button illumination, plus 5-6 amber LED bulbs that light up to indicate which function is active, e.g. AC on, recirc, etc. Check the LED interior bulb thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...od-thread.html