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Eletrical problem update

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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:58 AM
  #1  
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Default Eletrical problem update

First off, thank you for the excellent suggestions yesterday and today regarding my electrical issues. I never knew how to pull codes on this car before. I used to use a paper clip to pull the codes on my Grand National.

A recap - I replaced the battery in my car after it died completely while sitting in my garage unused for about 8 months. I have never been able to get either key fob to sync with the car since replacing the battery. Yesterday, while driving, the gauges would go to zero and then do the full sweep as if the car had just been started. The car never stalled.

I pulled the codes:
10-PCM No Codes

28-TCS C1236H

40-BCM No Codes

58-SDM B1001H

60-IPC No Codes

80-Radio No Codes

99-HVAC No Codes

A0-LDCM B2282H
B2284H
B2262H
U1064H

A1-RCDM B2283H
B2285H
B2265H
U1064H

A6-SCM No Codes

B0-RFA U1096H
U1064H
U1016H

I'm certainly no expert, but they all look like electrical issues and loss of communication of the fobs. One suggestion was to check the torque on the battery cable bolts and I did so and was able to turn each one about 1/4 turn. I used an adjustable wrench when I installed the battery and was afraid to put too much torque on them for fear of rounding the heads off. I went and got an 8mm wrench like I should have before and torqued them good. I cleared all the codes.

What's next? Drive the car and see if it all comes back? Is my car fixed? Should I do anything else (besides not letting the car sit for so long without driving it)?

Again, I would like to thank everyone for helping me out. I don't know what I would do without such a fine support group for these fine automobiles. I'm sure the dealer would have bent me over and robbed me blind.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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Update.

After tightening the battery bolts I have run the car about 15 miles. Still cannot get either fob to sync and the tire pressure indicators still aren't communicating. Does it just need more time?
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #3  
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The Fobs and the TPS need to be programmed to the car. Not sure why the fobs would de-program, but if you do a search you will find how to program your TPS sensors.

You'll need some form of magnet in order to program the tps as it will go on the valve stem during programming. Any decent sized magnet will work.

This will sound stupid but did you check the batteries in the fobs to make sure they aren't dead?
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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Now that you have cleared the codes, drive the car a bit and then check and see what codes come back. No, clearing codes does not fix the problem. It simply erases the records of the problems that have occurred since you replaced the battery.

Have any of the other symptoms reoccurred?

Have you checked the wires in the rubber accordian tubes to see if there are any bare ones? (link I sent in your earlier post) Check both doors.

Are the battery cable connectors clean? If not disconnect them and clean them up.

The RFA is the remote receiver for the door remotes and the tire pressure sensors. The loss of communications between it and the BCM (U1064) and PCM (U1016) are why the remotes will not reprogram. You cannot retrain the sensors until that issue is corrected and you also won't be able to reprogram your remotes until then. You can check ground G104 (on the frame next to the battery) to make sure that it is making good contact. That is the ground point for (among other things) the remote receiver. Clean the grounds as needed.

Post back the codes that return.


Originally Posted by tikiman
First off, thank you for the excellent suggestions yesterday and today regarding my electrical issues. I never knew how to pull codes on this car before. I used to use a paper clip to pull the codes on my Grand National.

A recap - I replaced the battery in my car after it died completely while sitting in my garage unused for about 8 months. I have never been able to get either key fob to sync with the car since replacing the battery. Yesterday, while driving, the gauges would go to zero and then do the full sweep as if the car had just been started. The car never stalled.

I pulled the codes:
10-PCM No Codes

28-TCS C1236H

40-BCM No Codes

58-SDM B1001H

60-IPC No Codes

80-Radio No Codes

99-HVAC No Codes

A0-LDCM B2282H
B2284H
B2262H
U1064H

A1-RCDM B2283H
B2285H
B2265H
U1064H

A6-SCM No Codes

B0-RFA U1096H
U1064H
U1016H

I'm certainly no expert, but they all look like electrical issues and loss of communication of the fobs. One suggestion was to check the torque on the battery cable bolts and I did so and was able to turn each one about 1/4 turn. I used an adjustable wrench when I installed the battery and was afraid to put too much torque on them for fear of rounding the heads off. I went and got an 8mm wrench like I should have before and torqued them good. I cleared all the codes.

What's next? Drive the car and see if it all comes back? Is my car fixed? Should I do anything else (besides not letting the car sit for so long without driving it)?

Again, I would like to thank everyone for helping me out. I don't know what I would do without such a fine support group for these fine automobiles. I'm sure the dealer would have bent me over and robbed me blind.
Reply
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 01:55 PM
  #5  
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if the car sat for 8 months chances are that the majority of the time it was sitting with that bad battery. in addition to all the great suggestions above, i would be certain to check the chassis ground connection to corrosion (inside the coupling) and make certain it was as clean as possible.

the fobs probably quit because you eventually lost event the standby power to all the electronics and the stored memory probably was lost, this is corrected by reprogramming the fobs. the tire sensors definitely need to be reprogrammed. the procedure for that can be found in many different places on the forum boards.
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