Clutch Issues
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: oak harbor wa
Clutch Issues
Hi all. I just recently came back from a month long boat boat det. When I took the vette out after not driving it for over a month the clutch seemed extremely light. I don't know if it's just me. My wife's Dad took it out a couple times while I was gone, but he's not really the wild type. What could be causing this issue, if there even is one. I drove her hard today to make sure it wasn't slipping and engaging properly, but everything seems to work. Comments Please!! Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
The larger question is if its staying fully engaged while under heavy load...in other words, is it slipping? At what point in pedal travel on the way out, does it fully engage?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: oak harbor wa
I changed the fluid in the reservoir and pumped the clutch 30 times. I opened it back up and the fluid looked good. My dad said the clutch felt pretty stiff to him, but I still think it feels funny. Thanks for the replies
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 491
Likes: 2
From: AZ
My clutch started feeling like that right before it started slipping badly. I tried the ranger method about 150x, and it didn't help at all. I would say try to bleed the clutch properly. If that doesn't help, it's probably time for a new clutch.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: oak harbor wa
The vette has 28k. I don't think it's slipping yet. Ugh that doesn't sound good mx597turbo. I will try and do a proper bleed this weekend, maybe start shopping around for a new clutch 
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 426
After not driving mine for a few weeks my slave cylinder started leaking. I dragged it around all winter like that but in the spring I had to bite the bullet and change the slave.
My clutch was fine so I just did the slave and saved a day of labor and around $600.
Hope the fluid change fixes it for ya.
My clutch was fine so I just did the slave and saved a day of labor and around $600.
Hope the fluid change fixes it for ya.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 491
Likes: 2
From: AZ
After not driving mine for a few weeks my slave cylinder started leaking. I dragged it around all winter like that but in the spring I had to bite the bullet and change the slave.
My clutch was fine so I just did the slave and saved a day of labor and around $600.
Hope the fluid change fixes it for ya.
My clutch was fine so I just did the slave and saved a day of labor and around $600.
Hope the fluid change fixes it for ya.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 426
I'll call you next time.
It looked like another day of knuckle busting-dirt in the eye screwing around on my back. The $600 is the cost of the new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel kit. BTW-you also get to change the pilot bearing since you are in there. Too much fun for me.
There was nothing wrong with the clutch then and a year later there still isn't.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
I have a different suggestion. Just swap the content of the reservoir right after the next 5-10 times you drive the car. Use DOT4 brake fluid such as Prestone. Total cost is about $6. I'd sure do that before further steps and $$$.
At 28K on the OD with stock power, clutch itself and actuator (slave) should be fine. If the fluid has not been maintained, cleaning that up is the first step. The reservoir is the easiest path. A "full bleed" is cumbersome, expensive if a dealer does it, and it will not rid the pockets of accumulated crud that follow lack of fluid maintenance. Also the dealer will usually introduce air into the hydraulics during the "full bleed." Another headache to get rid of that.
Changes in pedal feel usually stem from corrupt fluid or master cylinder seals that are abraded by clutch dust accumulation in the hydraulics. You can easily change the master cylinder, should that prove a necessary second step, for $125 or less in parts and an hour's labor, more or less.
Ranger
At 28K on the OD with stock power, clutch itself and actuator (slave) should be fine. If the fluid has not been maintained, cleaning that up is the first step. The reservoir is the easiest path. A "full bleed" is cumbersome, expensive if a dealer does it, and it will not rid the pockets of accumulated crud that follow lack of fluid maintenance. Also the dealer will usually introduce air into the hydraulics during the "full bleed." Another headache to get rid of that.
Changes in pedal feel usually stem from corrupt fluid or master cylinder seals that are abraded by clutch dust accumulation in the hydraulics. You can easily change the master cylinder, should that prove a necessary second step, for $125 or less in parts and an hour's labor, more or less.
Ranger
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
