When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My best suggestion is to visit "LS1Tech.com" those guys over there are cam guru's. I just ordered a Texas Speed 228R cam. It's 228/228 .588/.588 @ 112 LSA. There is a bunch of YouTube videos of every cam on the market. I spend hours on YouTube and LS1Tech, in fact I'm still reading threads over at LS1Tech. There's just so much information about cam change outs. My cam is not a very big cam, I wanted to keep driveability. Anyway I think I made the right choice of going with Texas Speed, there's a lot of good reviews on their cams. Good Luck.
I have a RapTR from Thunder Racing and have about .050 PTV clearance. You can go with their TRex and get around .030-.050 PTV. That's well into the RED for what is recommended for PTV. But people are running them with stock heads and no fly-cutting.
I know it's been said before, but you don't need a big cam to make big power. It's about the combo, and your driving habits. A tune is needed regardless of cam size, but the bigger the cam, the more important the quality of tune becomes. When I was NA, with H/C, and about every bolt-on, my Z had 483/432 SAE corrected, with only a 228-232 cam.
I know it's been said before, but you don't need a big cam to make big power. It's about the combo, and your driving habits. A tune is needed regardless of cam size, but the bigger the cam, the more important the quality of tune becomes. When I was NA, with H/C, and about every bolt-on, my Z had 483/432 SAE corrected, with only a 228-232 cam.
I have done dozens of hours of internet researching the last couple weeks. Viewed well over a hundred of dyno print outs. The common engineering of a 346 ci LS engine shows time and time again that it seems to hit a wall, sort of speak at anything much over 230-232 degrees of duration @ .050. Its called a saturation level. All the guys that run huge cams are just for sound and idle. If you just "live" at 5000-7500 rpms and dont care about drivability and/or overlap "stink" fumes then go for it. Like zeevette said earlier, 228-232 seems to be the sweet spot for a LS1/LS6 motor. I have found plenty of real good numbers with LS1 346 motors with excellent H/C combos in the 460-480 range. Funny thing is thats where MS3 and MS4 like cams seem to dyno as well. Exept for a few "big" cam combos in general that seem to magically hit that 500 RWHP mark, the " 236/240 and up" cams just dont seem to back up the numbers when all is said and done. Even with all the bolt ons and aftermarket heads, ported FAST etc. I'll gladly give up 5-7 hp at 6500 rpm for an extra 30 lbs of torque between 3000-5500 rpm any day if the week.
So how does it pull between idle and 4200 rpm with 3.42's ??
Not knocking smaller cams, because it has been proven that the smaller cams work extremely well on stock 241/243 cars.
My Car made 435/405 with a mid 230 cam from EG, and made more hp/tq from 2800rpm till redline.
As far as racing from idle and getting a dyno on it, well, I have never done that, so I wouldn't know. Most tuners don't dyno cars from idle to 2500rpms to see what is faster, because that has no bearing on any type of racing.
lets face it if you really want a bigger cam like a MS4, raptor or t-rex you will need either gears for a M6 or a stall and gears for auto. then you have all of that low end torque and it screams up top! I have the MS4 with 4.10's and it SCREAMS from idle to 6800.
For me, I dont want really any fuel stink from too much overlap. Been there done that. Theres a fine line on a 346 once you start getting in the 230's eh?