I just finished installing my Vararam. I will say this, I am a fully capable mechanic. I can rebuild manual transmissions, engines, and most anything else. I have no fear in tackling any repairs. But this, this I will never do again. Took 5.5 hours. Seriously. I took out a T56 from a 68 Camaro today to reseal the trans and install a twin disk. That took 2 hours to drop, in my garage on jack stands by myself. And installing this intake took me 5.5, I will stay 30 mins of that was because I couldnt read the instructions about the Z06 screens.

The fitment of this intake on my car is HORRID. This may just be specific to my car, Im not sure.


The ram ducts fit good, but the center piece that connects the 2 ducts took a lil work to get the holes lines up, but nothing too drastic. But when trying to fit the radiator shroud back into place, that took 1.5 hours in of itself. The ram tubes keep the shroud from being able to move in the specific angle needed to fit back into its place. I had to bend, fight, twist, scream, and beat the thing into its place and it still doesnt quite fit perfect.

Once that was installed, I went to button up with the Power Duct. That is where the 2nd half of my time was spent. This does not fit the way the instructions say. Even after manipulating the pieces for hours, it still does not fit right, but I have it together and running. I can try to explain the misfitment, but pictures work better. So here are a few I snapped while between fits of anger.

What was on the car when I bought it.


This is how it is suppose to install, with the MAF being at the very end of the Power Duct and right at the Throttle Body.


This is how the MAF is suppose to be according to instructions.


This is the reason for the trouble. The tubing, under no condition, fit the way the instructions say or show. Physically impossible. The bend in the Power Duct does not appear to be enough for my Z. The intake duct that came off had more of a turn back when coming from across the radiator.


So this is the result of 5.5 hours. Note that the setup still doesnt fit very well. You can see that the Throttle body to Power Duct connection is in a bind still. And I had to move the MAF to between the Vararam and the Power Duct. Even in this configuration, the Power Duct is still pushed against the bottom of the hood. But it is together.





I will NEVER buy an intake system like this. Of course this may just be with just my car. I have not read of others with this issue, just me. I typically change out my cars in the 1.5-2.5 year range, and I will say that after this install I will just skip the 30-40hp and stick a blower on the car. It would take less time.

 

Nice pictures. I've got bad news. It's not that your car is different, it's you being frustrated, and not handling it very well. I've done the VRam install twice, and thought it was about a 2 on a 1-10 scale. I'm a poor mechanic, who prefers instructions, to do anything. One tip that you may not be aware of that really helped me, is don't waste time trying to bolt the ducts up to the studs on the air openings. Leaving these loose doesn't make any difference to your air intake, and it's kind of hard to reach those. Everything else is pretty easy. I recently did a clutch installation on my Z, and it was 20 times more difficult, at least. Sorry, I don't mean to be, well, mean, but you way overstate the difficulty. Oh, BTW, I just did a blower installation, and there's no comparison to a simple VRam install.

 

Can the plastic on the powerduct be trimmed to sit lower?? man that sucks.I just installed mine a month ago and did not buy the powerduct because i heard of fittment and code issues and no real big power gain anyhow.my install went well without the powerduct try putting the original bridge backon.
Steve

 

no doubt that I was over blowing the post *slightly* due to my fustration. But I did fight for almost 2 hours alone trying to make the Power Duct fit. It does not line up to the throttle body. As you can see in the pic with the MAF connected to the throttle body per the instructions, there is not enough room between the end of the MAF with couplers and the side of the radiator. Simply put the Power Duct does not come far enough down after crossing over the radiator from the Vararam.

The bolts holding the ram ducts to the bumper were simple, but me having to uninstall and reinstall 3 times because I forgot to flip the clip things for the Z06 screens, then after fixing that, I forgot the clips on the top side of the same screens. That was my fault and added 30 mins to the time.

If the engine was higher by 2-3 inches, or the radiator was lower by 1-2, it would be fine. The intake duct that came off the car curved farther over after crossing the radiator like I discribed, which allows for that pipe to sit even with the throttle body, unlike the Power Duct.

 

If I were not so hard headed in the fact of not getting beat by the install, i would have just installed the the bridge that came off the car. The install all the way up to the point of the Power Duct was easy, except the radiator shroud fiasco.

 

We take the front facia off the car when we put them in. They are aPITA to put in and get rt. Another thing.On a C6 you get about 1/2 the amount of parts and it costs more and is a PITA to put in also.

 

It's been a while since I last did an install, but I remember I moved the MAF up to right off the TB on my install. I think I had to trim the silicone tubing to get the air bridge aligned right, for hood clearance. I also would get lean codes after I installed the air bridge/moved MAF, and after getting tired of resetting, got one of those MAF screens from Halltech. I think I attached the MAF directly to one end of the new airbridge, and it being REALLY tight. Still, maybe I don't have overly high expectations, because every mod I've done, has been "off the sheet" from instructions provided. For some reasons, most aftermarket manufacturers don't spend enough time engineering their products before bringing them to market. From other posts I've read over the years, the only complete CAI system available that fits well enough for the perfectionists, is the Callaway Honker. IMHO, though good, it's not quite the performer that the VRam is.

 

I think the power duct causes many problems as I don't have it and had no issues up top before I took it off for engine work, have not put back on yet as I don't like a oiled filter and am trying to find a paper filter for daily driving.

 

Has anyone ever dynod with and with out the powerduct to see what the gains are or has anyone been able to feel the difference, To me it seems like the powerduct is not worth the aggrivation, unless your talking 500hp and up motors were you are looking for every possible pony. they say high flow cats rob 1 to 2 hp, will this power duct even give you that much. again i dont have one based on opinions posted that i have read on the forum, but never really knew what im lossing by not running it.

Steve

 

Just use the stock bridge and accordian. The optional duct is not going to make a difference anyway, it will probably run better with the stock bridge.

 

DITTO--just do it--

 

I have heard both good and bad about the install.I have not done it yet though.

 

WOW, my VR has not yet been installed - still in the box. I have read a lot of post relative to how difficult they are to install and I guess that's why I have not tackled it yet

As tight and bound as your install looks can you still access the filter to clean and replace - do you think the filter box still seals properly to keep crap out of the intake ?

 

hahaha, yeah. If you only have the Vararam and not the power duct, you should be fine. That part was a breeze to install.

If I ever have to change the filter I will let ya know I dont plan on taking it apart again. I have to basically use 2 hands to pull towards the hood (hands going between the bumper and the hood) on the ram tubes to get the filter housing to slide far enough down to clamp onto the ram tubes.

As for sealling good, I honestly dont know yet. I bought a can of starting fluid to spray arround it to check it. I also had to make a plug of sorts for the nice whole in the corner of the filter housing. I guess that is for the air pump? I dont know, mine has a lil filter on the end of it.


Oh to the guys who recomend using the stock tube and stuff, I dont have it. car had some other bridge on it. I may see if that bridge works better this weekend or not. Depending on if I want to fight with it again. I think Id rather pull the clutch instead, tho to be honest

 

Thanks for the feedback - keep me apprised on how well the filter box seals when you findout

 

Hey Zee read through the directions a few times while out by the car and understand as much as you can because the directions are not the best but with some reading though it I had no issues at all, install went well!! do not tighten things up untill you see how things are fitting. Agian I DID NOT install the powerduct based on the views of alot of the forum members , Ihave seen a few theads on here were guys have removed them. my box sealed up fine but i domt have alot of miles on it yet either

Steve

 

Thank you SIR

 

Mine sealed great, but I did have to peel the weatherstripping off and re-align it to get perfect. The filter is VERY easy to get to/change. About 10 seconds to remove it, which is much easier than on a stock system. And to MachZ's comment on the VRam "power duct", I agree. It was harder to get it right than it should have been. I bought one way after I'd had the VRam on using a Halltech plastic air bridge I already had, because it looked cool, was cheap, and it moved the MAF to a better (IMO) location. Most of which I discovered was BS, or I could have done anyway.

 

I will be putting my Z up on stands in a couple of weeks to change ALLLLLLLLL of the fluids and install the VR. If I have an unusually difficult time with the VR install I will chime back in with my thoughts

 

If you dont have the Power Duct, I doubt you will have much issue other than trying to reinstall the radiator shroud.