mulalleybs

Was driving, haven't been in my car in awhilearound today car seemed pretty good. when I go wot on the other hand though the car will be alright up until 60 or so then it will get sluggish and you can hear quite a bit off back firing as well as the cel flashing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mr.Bill

The first and formost thing to do is retrive your codes from the DIC.
That will tell you a lot.
Mr.Bill

Turn the key to the ON position, but don't start the engine. Clear any present messages by pressing the RESET button. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a history code (something that has occured in the past) but is fine now. Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES".

To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays "NO CODES". Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps in this paragraph until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules. NOTE !! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this.

Double G

Low fuel pressure is a good guess after reading codes like Mr. Bill said. Plugged fuel line filter, plugged tank pick up, weak pump pressure, tank to tank transfer. You got the idea. Just what I would do first.

tommie

if the check engine light is flashing, it usually means that you currently have an engine misfire of 50% or more on one or more cylinders, and that damage to the cat converters can occur if you keep driving.....

pull the codes and check it out....

phils C5 vette

I have my adaptive idle and my under/oversteer spark set to make my cam sound lumpier ( larger) that it really is.

I love the way the car rocks side to side at idle, but i was getting a flashing CEL which indictes some misfiring. So I had to add 2 degrees of spark at idle to clean up the misfiring, but it still sounds like a race car. Click below for my 450+ RWHP 228R on a 114

mulalleybs

Mk here are the codes.. There are a lot

B 2283
B 2284
B 2282
B 2285
U 1255
C1276
U1096
U1064
B3091
B2593
B2592
B2588

Btw my mods are ecs sc600, lg pro headers with cat delete, electric cut outs, me th injection, kb bap, yada yada

Mr.Bill

Are they C or H codes?

mulalleybs

H codes

Mr.Bill

If they are all H codes I would delete all the codes and drive it and see what if any comes back, H means history and are no longer active, C means current issues.

mulalleybs

the car drives normally it only has the flashing cel when I go wot.

tommie

have you checked the spark plugs? i had one that was cracked (believe during install) and it would cause problems like you described (1st post) when the engine was under load...popping, bucking, misfire

Mr.Bill

Like I said, Clear all the codes and drive the car @ WOT and see what codes you get, This should help narrow it down a bit.

Mr.Bill

Have you had any battery issues lately?

mulalleybs

Nope, it could be because of my flip drive. My ac belt squeals pretty bad on start up

mulalleybs

Can that cause reduced engine power during wot?

herZ06

That happened to me once time, I am not of much help but I was told it was a misfire issue. I was running nitrous at the time though, and we found out the nitrous kept blowing the spark out on 150 shot... took nitrous off, installed a supercharger & new plugs, all is good.

So the answer is, you should install a supercharger.

In all seriousness though, good luck with your issue!

mulalleybs

I alreadyhave a super charger. lol

herZ06

Hmm, well, not sure what else to say then! But hopefully you get it figured out.