Well it figures seems like everything is going to need some work at once...

1) The car doesn't start sometimes...I crank it, it turns over, the exhuast booms, and then it dies out. It always starts on the second try (a couple of times though it did it on the second too, and had to crank it the third. Basically if I hold the key in the start position longer it is less likely to happen. I believe it is an easy fix, something like an air flow sensor or something....I have no idea I am a car rookie. Any ideas?

2) Have to get the E-Brake fixed, it only engages all the way up, any less and it rolls, so I leave it in gear, not too hilly around here but still I'd like to have the piece of mind. I researched this, it looks like the brackets are going to need bending back in place, the pull three times going backwards doesn't work.

3) Need some new tires, probably going to just get the stock size f1's...tread is probably 35-45% but they're supposedly the original tires from 2001 soo...

4) Oil change...

5) Serpantine belt needs replacing (what exactly is this lol?) I was just told by the mechanic when I had it checked out it was going to need replacing along with the brake and steering fluid

6) It rained today and I realized on TOP of it all...I need to replace my wipers, they are starting to come apart...LOL thats something I can do myself.

I am probably just going to to go to a Chevy dealer and just get it all done, however are there any good places you'd recommend in Southern California near Camp Pendleton or San Diego you'd recommend I could take it? I'd like to take it to someone who is familiar with Vettes for problems like the e-brake and such.

Other than that though I am very Happy, had the car a month now and it's been all smiles, car it pretty much mint condition except some paint oxidation I am going to have to buff out I had't realized was there since I cleaned her up last weekend.

 

First of all, congrats on the new (to you) Z. Starting problem, could just need tune up. E-brake, not that great to not leave it in gear at all times when parked, even when set correctly. F1's are great if you never drive in rain or below 40 degrees. The serpentine belt is your main drive belt. Not hard to change, but you may want to change the idler and also the AC belt at the same time. Claybar and Zaino it and you will be good to go!!! Enjoy!!!

 

Find a local Corvette club and I'm sure someone will offer to help you with them. Your problems are fairly simple...serpentine belt is an easy change once you have done it a couple times..

Tires wear out on the INSIDE first so if you get down and look at the inside tread they are probably much worse than you think.

Fill out your profile as to where you live, someone may see it and offer up assistance. I know I would...

 

1.) Pull the codes and post up. You can pull the codes by doing this:
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

2.) E-brake sucks. Mine does the same thing. Needs to be up all the way. If you have a manual, pull the e-brake all the way up and leave your car in gear.

3.) Change the tires. They are prob hard as hell and they are very old. If you do spirited driving with them, Id change them pronto. Hankook and toyo make a good prices tire. Get away from the runflats as they tend to be a ruffer ride.

4.) You can do the oil change by going here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHCqJQ8K4g0

Personally, I bring it to the dealership so that it is in the system and my time is money. That and I pass the liability to them if I have an issue.

5.) The belt is easy to change, believe its a 15 MM socket (dot quote me, its been a while) on the tensioner pulley. Put the socket on there and tigheten it. It will pull the pulley down and you can remove the serpentine belt. Just remember how it ran and replace it in the same manner. its a 5 min job.

6.) You can change the wipers, easy to do. If you cant figure it out (very easy) buy the wipers from autozone and tell them to put it on.

Everything you can do! The dealership will screw you over with labor fees.

 

There are two belts in fact. Use Goodyear Gatorback belts as they won't squeak. If you use any other belt, in about a year and a half you'll get an annoying chirp chirp chirp sound from the belts. This trick has worked on all three of my cars.

 

Finally got around to check the codes, no codes except a couple of history codes for the left, right, and seat control modules (all which work btw).


Hopefully it does just need a tune. It dies out like on a carburated car where you need to give it gas...it never seems to do it if I treat it like this, but will giving it gas with the key in the start position (cranking the engine, giving it gas only after it starts), do any harm? Maybe just a dirty filter or something?

 

USMC, well you found this forum. You will get the best advice here, just hang in.

 

you are not supposed to touch the throttle when starting a fuel injected vehicle.

 

1) I had a similar problem when I first got my z, I would start it up and it would die. I figured out when I was releasing my key I was actually turning it off (kind of stupid on my part) but its never happened to me in any other car. I dont know if its the same issue that you are having just pay attention next time and see what happens.

 

All of the above, I think most of us Z owners have had these issues. Not real major. The starting issue, I would first get a can of Seafoam and put 93+ octane in the tank and try to get a few days of spirited driving in and see if that will solve the starting issue. You will probably need a tune-up eventually but these cars have been known to go well over 100,000 mi before new plugs go in, so its possible the fuel injection needs a good cleaning (Seafoam). See if this works.

 

techron.

 

Try taking the car to the hobby shop on base. They have lifts there so you can easily get under the car for oil changes, and they have any tool you could ever need, and the Marines that hang out there are pretty knowledgeable.

 

I would have someone do a fuel pressure check. Sounds like a weak fuel pump could be causing your starting problem.

Try cycling the key on and off three times before you actualy start it and see if it starts right up.

Could also be a leaky injector.

Fuel pressure test would tell the tale.

 

Yea, my employer couldn't figure out why his work trucks were often tough to start, and I discovered he was pumping the accelerator on deisel injected trucks before and during startup. I had a good bit of fun at his expense after that.

 

from owners manual:


1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn the
ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let
go of the key. The idle speed will go down as your
engine gets warm.

2. If it doesn’t start within 10 seconds, push the
accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, while you
hold the ignition key in START. When the engine
starts, let go of the key and let up on the accelerator
pedal. Wait about 15 seconds between each try.

When starting your engine in very cold weather
(below 0
F or -18
C), do this:

1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn the
ignition key to START and hold it there. When the
engine starts, let go of the key. Use the accelerator
pedal to maintain engine speed, if you have to, until
your engine has run for a while.

2. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then stops),
it could be flooded with too much gasoline. Try pushing
your accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and
holding it there as you hold the key in START for about
three seconds. When the engine starts, let go of the key
and accelerator. If the vehicle starts briefly but then
stops again, do the same thing, but this time keep the
pedal down for five or six seconds. This clears the extra
gasoline from the engine.

 

I'm not so crazy about taking the car to the Chevy dealer, even for an oil change. I got lazy last weekend and took mine to the dealer. Greasy fingerprints on the hood and windshield and as if that wasn't enough, it was 2 quarts low. I had my drivers side window regulator replaced and they screwed up the window alignment so it didn't seal right anymore. Better to do it yourself or locate a reputable corvette mechanic in your area.

When I start my car I turn the key to on first. The DIC will display the welcome message and the gauges will calibrate. Then turn the key to start. This only takes a few seconds but it lets the fuel pump run up to pressure before starting.

 

Cunningham Motorsports (CMS)...they're in Murrieta. Highly recommended on here, and many folks will drive up from SD to go there.

 

Old diesels needed a little throttle on colder mornings, at least my 97 12 valve Cummins did.

 

Not the 03+ Fords, just warm the glow plug, turn the ignition and don't touch the throttle or you may be cranking for a while, and a big cloud of soot when it does fire.

 

Yup, any computer controlled engine diesel or gas, leave throttle alone. You should see my wife's little 07 Grand Cherokee diesel start, it's amazing. -12 F at 6,000' elevation, sat all night long, glow plugs come on for less than 5 seconds, cranks for less than 2 seconds and it springs to life.