Well more of the hydraulic system for it... the car is yet to come out of storage this year, cannot wait til april 1st! On the other hand I am partially dreading it because for the life of me I cannot figure out this clutch situation, I have done countless searches for the fix and some helped but I'm stumped. Here goes.

Right before I stored the car (late November) the pedal got really bad and a few times stuck to the floor and required me pulling it up manually

when its chilly out, (sub 50) within the first 20-30 minutes of first starting my car, the clutch engagement point is really close to the floor, not necessary spongy feeling but a lot softer and lower than after the car heats up. After that the engagement point is a lot higher and the clutch pedal feels stiffer

On hot days 70+ the clutch is stiff and engagement is high right from the start. which leads me to believe thermal expansion has something to do with it. Is that even possible with clutch fluid?

I've bled it numerous times with very slight improvements and regularly do the "ranger method" of fluid change at the first sign of a dirty reservoir.

I have read about the "drill bit" mod in the past where ?? the restrictor is modified?? (I believe that's the purpose) and I am curious to try it.

Any thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated, thanks for all the help!

--Chris

 

I went through the same problem first of the year. Tried all the easy fixes no luck. Just bit the bullet and R&R'd the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and slave cylinder...problem solved.
Mine was a 98 coupe and had 90,000 miles so it was needed.

 

Your clutch is toast. Put in a remote bleeder when you have the clutch replaced.

 

If your clutch is stiff your pressure plate is done, I had a similar problem early this year with my honda si, I tried replacing the all hydraulics with the same problem when done.

I didn't want to pull mine apart either but in the end I had to.

Make sure you do it right and replace everything other than the flywheel, if it's nice, but I would have it cut if you don't want to spring for new.

 

agreed - I changed out my clutch. I was quite suprised at the disc and to see so little wear. What was done however was the pressure plate and slave cylinder. the master cylinder didn’t hold any vacuum when I tested it. So I replaced the OEM clutch with a Luk clutch kit. I also bought a new master cylinder from Napa in Blaine (the closest part to Vancouver was in Montreal and was nearly $1K). under $100 for the part in napa. I also ordered a remote clutch bleeder and slave cylinder from tick performance. I bought the camaro one because I needed to change my fittings anyway. So long story short, it all worked great.

and not to cause a controversy, the parts in the clutch kit all came balanced - so I made sure to transfer my old (three) weights from the flywheel to the new part to compensate for the balance in the engine. (yes the net result was to put the new clutch out of balance with the old weights). I was careful to note where (what positions) the 3 weights came from. the end result was silky smooth revs. Had it not worked out, it would have been too easy to take a punch and tap out the 3 weights..........

I took the entire driveline apart in under 4hrs. it took me over three hours to cut out the outer race of the pilot bearing (the remainder of the needle bearings/inner race) were no longer in the engine). and likely was the tapping noise I heard when it all came apart. I installed the driveline singlehandedly in under five hours. and that was taking my time.

when it all came apart - I chose to remove the cradle separately from the driveline. and also install it separately. one of my better decisions........

Don

 

Well, dirty fluid certainly does not help clutch pedal engaugement and height issues as well as the factory master cylinder. If I were a betting man I'd say the Tickshift Mastercylinder along with new fluid would cure all your problems. Ask me how I know.

 

Did you use ramps and jack stands or did you have a lift? Also where did you purchase you service manual.

 

I dont think ramps would be sufficient to raise the car high enough. I used truck jack stands at work. I studied (memorized) three threads on this site - which provided excellent step by step pictorials on how to do the job. coupeled with my extensive mechanical experience, it wasnt that tough.

Keep in mind, you can only lift the car so high. the critical thing is to not drop the rear transmission/differential lower than the bottom pan of the trunk. this means you draw an imaginary line across the top of the transmission, and when it clears the bottom of the trunk pan - you have gone low enough.

I also would disconnect the fuel and vapour lines (i dont remember reading about this). ofcourse the engine gets disconnected from the air filter - and all else is good (the engine tilts front and back on its mounts).

msg me your email - and I can send you the step by step instructions your way

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...placement.html

 

Just get a tick master and problem solved

 

I drag race my z and my clutch stuck to the floor at almost every pass there at the end. I pulled it out, drilled the line, and put it back. I did not replace anything and the problem was solved. That may not work for you, but did for me. I think that when you shove the pedal down quickly fluid is bypassing the master, that is why the pedal sticks to the floor. Fluid is on the back side of the plunger. It is an umbrella seal and that is why when you pull it back up, it works fine again. This is my logic and why I chose the course of action that I did.