My car has an k&n intake, bbk long tube headers, no cats, and B&B Bullets. Not looking to go towards cam or heads. Should i buy a intake manifold before the dyno, after, or not at all? And what kind of gain could i expect?

 

What year C5 do you have?

Darion

 

If you have a 2001 or newer, you should have the LS6 intake. Leave it alone.

As for the dyno tune, nothing but a bunch of hype and a misnomer. Dyno's don't tune anything. An experienced LSx tuner knows what to do w/o wasting your money on dyno time. On the other hand, it makes the unknowing feel all warm & gooey knowing they've been "dyno tuned".

As for gains, it depends on which year your car is. The older LS1 PCM has very aggressive WOT timing oem. One of the better gains comes from eliminating the pig rich factory PE setting and cat overtemp protection.

 

So you prefer street tune? Or are you saying no tune? How would you go about eliminating the pig rich factory setting?

Darion

 

Sorry my car is a 98 manual. I'm so confused about all this. What can I do to reach close to 400 rwhp without cams or heads.

 

Nitrous maybe?

 

I said very clearly that an experienced LSx tuner would know what to do w/o wasting your money on dyno time. I guess I need to interpret. That means an experienced tuner knows from experieince what changes are necessary to accomplish the owner's goals - sans dyno.

The way I do it is I take my trusty Gateway notebook and EFILive to the car in question and I turn my computer on, then I plug the EFI hardware into a USB slot. Then I open EFI, plug the hardware into the OBD port on the driver's side of the car, turn the ignition on, & download the existing tune....

Anyhow, among other things, I change the parameters in B3618 from the oem setting that gets around 11.8:1 so we're shooting for about 13.0:1 AFR. Ya gotta remember that if you're running 10% ethanol, & most places do, stoic should change from 14.68 to 14.1 - thats B3601.

Then, among other things, I go to parameter B0701 and change cat protection from Enable to Disable.

I save the tune, reconnect to the car, and upload the tune.

Now then, if you have a car that you're racing and you need to wrench every last bit of torque and peak HP out of a car, a dyno is a good place to start, but the likelyhood of the track conditions being exactly what you had at the shop are pretty remote, so if you're racing seriously, you need to be able to make adjustments at the track.

For a basic street car (that doesn't even have a cam), an experienced turner can get you darn close to an optimum tune w/o all of the sales BS surrounding Dyno Tuning or even messing around on the street.

Don't get me wrong, dyno days can be fun events and help speed shops pay for the dynos they need for serious racers - and quite often to sell their basic tuning services because it's easier to charge for dyno time than to try to explain that you really don't need it.

 

You've got a '98. I would agree that w/o doing H/C, nitrous could get you there.

A LS6 intake will get you a good increase for the money.

The '98 has an aggressive timing/spark advance table right out of the box.

 

Ok, just asking..... thanks for clarifying a dyno tune can be a valuable tool. Chill

 

I've been looking into an intake manifold. Should I upgrade to ls6 or a fast 90