[Z06] lowering kits?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
Just lower it using the stock bolts. If you lower it more than that you will be on the bump stops in the back and the car will handle funny.
If you are going to corner weight it you need to lower the front bolts in whole turn increments. That way the front bolts won't "settle out" and screw up your corner weights. Mark the front bolts with a sharpie or paint and then turn each front screw in whole turns until you are about one turn from bottomed out. If you turn the bolts different amounts the plastic heads on the bolts deform and if they are consistent your corner weights will stay. If one bolt deforms more than the other your weights will be off when the screws deform and the car settles out.
In the back the rear bolt on the passenger side should show about 2-3 threads above the nut and the drivers side rear bolt will show about 4 or threads above the nut. After you do turn the bolts as described, drive the car for a couple of blocks to make sure it settles out and then put it on the scales with one front sway bar link detached. Set the corner weights with the rear height bolts, jacking one or the other to dial it in.
You really should have an adjustable end link so that you can reconnect the front bar with no prelaod on it. If you don't have one now you can reattach the sway bar and just do the end link later, just make sure you are on a level surface when you put the new adjustable end link on.
Check the rake and make sure you have a half an inch as measured at the jacking points and you are good to go.
If you are going to corner weight it you need to lower the front bolts in whole turn increments. That way the front bolts won't "settle out" and screw up your corner weights. Mark the front bolts with a sharpie or paint and then turn each front screw in whole turns until you are about one turn from bottomed out. If you turn the bolts different amounts the plastic heads on the bolts deform and if they are consistent your corner weights will stay. If one bolt deforms more than the other your weights will be off when the screws deform and the car settles out.
In the back the rear bolt on the passenger side should show about 2-3 threads above the nut and the drivers side rear bolt will show about 4 or threads above the nut. After you do turn the bolts as described, drive the car for a couple of blocks to make sure it settles out and then put it on the scales with one front sway bar link detached. Set the corner weights with the rear height bolts, jacking one or the other to dial it in.
You really should have an adjustable end link so that you can reconnect the front bar with no prelaod on it. If you don't have one now you can reattach the sway bar and just do the end link later, just make sure you are on a level surface when you put the new adjustable end link on.
Check the rake and make sure you have a half an inch as measured at the jacking points and you are good to go.
