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I just got the right rear fender and rear bumper cover back from the paint shop. They did an ok job - not perfect, by any means. But I bought this salvage vehicle as a daily driver and wasn't looking to put together a show car - function is more important to me than form! Anyway, here's a few pictures of what it looks like - there are some pictures on the forum of what it looked like before the parts were hung. I still need to find a passenger side muffler .
Here's another picture from the side. Considering that the parts were painted off of the vehicle, the color match was better than I expected. I just finished hanging everything about an hour ago. Can't wait to get it registered! Unfortunately, the salvage yard has yet to send me the title - I'm hoping it'll be here next week.
Thanks BLKWDWZZ06 - My next goal, after I get it inspected and registered, is to change the valve springs and put C6 shocks on her. As much as I enjoy staring at the vehicle (I still can't believe I finally own one), I think I enjoy working on it even more. It's been over 30 years since I've owned a V8. My mechanical skills have been focused upon Saab turbos during that time. GM wasted its' opportunity with Saab. I've worked on plenty of different vehicles and in my opinion a there is no better or safer designed family sedan than a Saab 9000. Their engines were engineering marvels, as much so as the LS6, I'd have to say. With only software, larger injectors, intercooler and 3" downpipe, I was able to get 315 hp from a 2.3 liter 4 cylinder. I have friends who get over 410 hp with the stock pistons - Saab built very robust engines and pretty much wrote the book on state of the art turbo and engine management systems. So, when Saab stopped building the 9000 (thanks GM), my Saab days were numbered. In my pantheon of "great cars", the 9000 will always be fondly remembered. The 9000 was
killed by "bean counters" - in the end, it was too expensive to manufacture. Hopefully, Corvette will never suffer that fate, but then again, I never say never!
Thanks Darryl - I live near a few interstates, here in MA, and while they are relatively long, they're in p***poor condition from an abnormally bad winter and lack of maintenance. But, besides the title and long roads, I think I'm also going to "need" a set of headers and a few other goodies, before I'll be satisfied. I'll stay with the stock mufflers - I think they're brilliant: not too loud, robust, and light (just like my girlfriend!)
Thanks Darryl - I live near a few interstates, here in MA, and while they are relatively long, they're in p***poor condition from an abnormally bad winter and lack of maintenance. But, besides the title and long roads, I think I'm also going to "need" a set of headers and a few other goodies, before I'll be satisfied. I'll stay with the stock mufflers - I think they're brilliant: not too loud, robust, and light (just like my girlfriend!)
Thanks BLKWDWZZ06 - My next goal, after I get it inspected and registered, is to change the valve springs and put C6 shocks on her. As much as I enjoy staring at the vehicle (I still can't believe I finally own one), I think I enjoy working on it even more. It's been over 30 years since I've owned a V8. My mechanical skills have been focused upon Saab turbos during that time. GM wasted its' opportunity with Saab. I've worked on plenty of different vehicles and in my opinion a there is no better or safer designed family sedan than a Saab 9000. Their engines were engineering marvels, as much so as the LS6, I'd have to say. With only software, larger injectors, intercooler and 3" downpipe, I was able to get 315 hp from a 2.3 liter 4 cylinder. I have friends who get over 410 hp with the stock pistons - Saab built very robust engines and pretty much wrote the book on state of the art turbo and engine management systems. So, when Saab stopped building the 9000 (thanks GM), my Saab days were numbered. In my pantheon of "great cars", the 9000 will always be fondly remembered. The 9000 was
killed by "bean counters" - in the end, it was too expensive to manufacture. Hopefully, Corvette will never suffer that fate, but then again, I never say never!
I do miss the 9000 myself, very cool car. Do you think the turbo tech was put into the ecotec turbos and diesel turbo setups.
Well BLKWDZ06, it depends on what you mean by turbo tech - if you mean hardware, I don't think Stryker is using ball bearing turbos or variable vane turbos (damn beancounters!) on the Saab, but I do know that there have been several new iterations of engine managment (software) for the Trionic. I often wondered what ever happened with the variable compression engine design or the work that was done with Orbital Engineering (Australian subsidiary to GM). Diesel turbos are a very efficient arrangement - it's too bad that they aren't more widely used here in the US. Maybe Saab should have combined their turbo experience with Yanmar!
Thanks Darryl - I live near a few interstates, here in MA, and while they are relatively long, they're in p***poor condition from an abnormally bad winter and lack of maintenance.
Nice looking car. I grew up in Ashby so I know of some good roads north of you. Head west on Rte 2 and then up 91 to Rte 9 in VT. Take 9 east through Keene where it turns into 101. Keep on 101 to 31, which goes down through Wilton and into Mass. 31 eventually brings you down through Fitchburg and then back to Rte 2. If you want a longer ride, take 2 all the way out to Williamstown and then go up 7 to Bennington. 9 between Bennington and Keene is a fantastic road to drive. I used to go that way back and forth to college outside Albany.
Hi Scooter - I know and have travelled those roads. I'm in Lancaster, which is within 8 miles of routes 2, 190 (only 2 miles from my driveway), and 495. I used to commute to Amherst when I attended U. Mass. (route 2 to 202) and have used 101 many times in my travels to Manchester, NH. I drove up 91 when I picked up my John Deere from a fellow in Swanton, Vt., way up by Lake Champlain - beautiful country up there. Better roads than Massachusetts, too.
I gather this was hit in the rear towards the right side. I may be mistaken, but the right rear tire looks like it's sitting too far forward in the wheel well. You may want to really inspect the rear suspension components...especially the A-arms and their mounts to the frame.
Thanks and good eyes MTPZ06 - you're right. It was hit on the right rear corner. It looked like the passenger muffler absorbed most of the impact. The bumper beam was bent slightly in towards the tub but only at the far right end. Where the beam attaches to the passenger side frame rail, there appears to be no damage. The muffler was pushed forward and into the right rear wheel - not enough to do any damage to the wheel or tire. I looked at the frame rail, the A-arms and where they mount to the frame and rear cradle, but there didn't appear to be any damage. The wheel was turning inwards - which I readjusted with a few turns of the toe-rod to bring the wheel back to
what appears to be "normal". I tried to take measurements from side to side and though my methods weren't precise, the measurements appeared to have a 1/2" difference between the two sides (center to center, front to back). I'll attach a picture so you'll get a little better idea of the hit it took. I would think that if the A-arms suffer damage, they would crack, not bend - or am I wrong in assuming this?
MTPZ06 - You seem to have experience w/damaged 'Vettes? I have a question for you. I looked at the suspension components very closely and at the frame where they attach. I could see no damage to either the frame or the A-arms. My thinking is that the damage was sustained at the wheel end of the suspension components. Specifically, the upper and lower ball joints could have been bent. As I said before, the wheel and tire did not get damaged, at all. But the muffler was pushed into the inside edge of the rear tire. Whatever force that the wheel absorbed was centered on that inside edge and was directed towards the front. What do you think?
I definately think A-arms can bend without breaking. I would check to see if those arms have changed in geometry from stock measurments. Don't know a real good way to do that without laying them over a good set. Maybe get the car up on a lift and take some measurements from both sides? You may want to check that the wheel is true as well...a simple spin balance machine will show that pretty quick.
Years ago I had an F-body car ('89 Turbo T/A), and I was cornering hard and slammed into a pot hole. It bent my left front spindle...severely. You couldn't tell anything was wrong with it by looking at it though. I had to replace the spindle, but luckily the A-arm, steering compnants and my Koni shock were fine.
Well, being very careful I remeasured front to back, side to side. There's a 1/4" difference in the wheelbase. I really don't think the A-arms are bent. I have a theory, but I think I'll have to wait until it's taken for a 4-wheel alignment before having enough evidence to support my claims. Here's my forensic "theory" - the tire/wheel, when struck, was pushed inward, as if turning to the left. The wheel pivots at two point: the upper and lower ball joint. It can turn inward at only two points: the camber bolt on the bottom A-arm and the toe-rod. I don't think the toe-rod can be lengthened without loosening the locking nut at the adjustable toe-rod end. However, I have read reports on this forum where the camber-bolt did move during heavy auto-x, racing, etc. I think the only other explanation would be the ball-joints being bent, as they are the weak-links when compared to the A-arms, or other suspension items that could bend. Anyway, I'm going to bring it in for alignment as soon as I get my title - hopefully, before the end of this week and I will post the results when I get them.
I definately think A-arms can bend without breaking. I would check to see if those arms have changed in geometry from stock measurments. Don't know a real good way to do that without laying them over a good set. Maybe get the car up on a lift and take some measurements from both sides? You may want to check that the wheel is true as well...a simple spin balance machine will show that pretty quick.
Years ago I had an F-body car ('89 Turbo T/A), and I was cornering hard and slammed into a pot hole. It bent my left front spindle...severely. You couldn't tell anything was wrong with it by looking at it though. I had to replace the spindle, but luckily the A-arm, steering compnants and my Koni shock were fine.
Good luck!
Steel control arms yes, Aluminum control arms will typically crack or break before they bend. But the arms are mounted with an eccentric bolt so it's possible you managed to nudge the bolt to a new position. The tie rods are steel, they'll definitely bend.
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