Replacing wheel studs
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,000
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On the front or rear? Front is easy. Take the rotor and caliper off and turn the hub so the stud will come out the backside. Hit the stud with a mallet till it comes out. Put the new stud in and use a washer and lug nut with a impact to suck it in tight. Make sure to re-check the torque of the lug nuts after driving... Not too sure how to do the rears on these cars as I haven't really looked.
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Race Director
Joined: Jun 2009
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On the front or rear? Front is easy. Take the rotor and caliper off and turn the hub so the stud will come out the backside. Hit the stud with a mallet till it comes out. Put the new stud in and use a washer and lug nut with a impact to suck it in tight. Make sure to re-check the torque of the lug nuts after driving... Not too sure how to do the rears on these cars as I haven't really looked.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,000
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Here's a thread to check out then. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...eel-studs.html It's for longer wheel studs but I would imagine the process is the same since they just don't pop out like the front.
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Great info. Thanks for the links to the procedure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
FYI
I did this last summer and it is a PITA if your going to do it without removing the rear wheel hub assembly. The information provided in the link on how to drill through the backing plate is correct, but what they don't tell you is that it's not a straight shot in and you actually have to tap them on a slight angle due to the spindle blocking the path. If using ARP long studs (like I did) the tensile strength is strong but did manage to slightly flatten the ARP threads. I was able to remedy this by using the APPROPRIATE file that matched the thread size in order to "sharpen" them up again so the lug nut would go on properly.
In order to get a straight shot in you would have to drill a notch out of the spindle and I actually did take a few MM off but did not drill or remove more then that! It might not harm it but I managed to do it without but the choice is up to you. Good luck!
I did this last summer and it is a PITA if your going to do it without removing the rear wheel hub assembly. The information provided in the link on how to drill through the backing plate is correct, but what they don't tell you is that it's not a straight shot in and you actually have to tap them on a slight angle due to the spindle blocking the path. If using ARP long studs (like I did) the tensile strength is strong but did manage to slightly flatten the ARP threads. I was able to remedy this by using the APPROPRIATE file that matched the thread size in order to "sharpen" them up again so the lug nut would go on properly.
In order to get a straight shot in you would have to drill a notch out of the spindle and I actually did take a few MM off but did not drill or remove more then that! It might not harm it but I managed to do it without but the choice is up to you. Good luck!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 19
From: Not far from COTA
depending on the circumstances (at track, at home) I've used the hammer it out approach or used one of these
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7315A-Univ.../dp/B0002SRFOY
I've also removed the front bearing assembly and supported the hub in a vise and hammered out the fronts -- depends on your comfort level of hammering on a bearing assy
and Lou's tip is the only way to put longer studs into a Miata rear so should work fine on vettes too
for replacement studs, NAPA sells same length studs that have threads all the way to the end
stock studs do not have threads for the last 10mm or so
Doug Rippie Motorsports sells 1/2" longer studs that are threaded all the way
and ARP has 1" longer studs
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7315A-Univ.../dp/B0002SRFOY
I've also removed the front bearing assembly and supported the hub in a vise and hammered out the fronts -- depends on your comfort level of hammering on a bearing assy
and Lou's tip is the only way to put longer studs into a Miata rear so should work fine on vettes too
for replacement studs, NAPA sells same length studs that have threads all the way to the end
stock studs do not have threads for the last 10mm or so
Doug Rippie Motorsports sells 1/2" longer studs that are threaded all the way
and ARP has 1" longer studs
