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So i'v read through alot with no definite answers. Some people say its just the spring underneath the peddle. Some say its the pressure plate. The slave cylinder..... I can't really find any for sure answer to fix this problem. There was also some 1/8th drilling out the line. I'v tried with just cleaning my clutch fluid alot, doesn't seem to help one bit.
Thanks -Matt
No offense, but you must not have read too many threads. I know there's dozens of threads that directly relate to your problem, but the consensus of what to do is also in most of those threads. There's several areas that affect clutch performance, and if you've done the "Ranger method" with no help, then you're gonna need to replace some parts. Bad news, but our clutches are a common trouble area. It's so difficult to replace every component, except the master, that the person with a sticky clutch usually ends up with a new, aftermarket clutch, and all new hydraulics. The only possibility of avoiding a complete clutch replacement would be to install a new master, which may or may not fix the problem. A Tick brand adjustable master gives you a better chance at curing the problem, but if you want a sure-fire cure, you need to replace everything with better components.
Pull the line, drill it put it back. It WILL be fixed, even with stock everything on the car. The problem with the internet are most people will post about 20 threads about what to fix, how to fix it, and such, but NEVER go outside and actually fix it. The problem is the restrictor. What sucks is you have to pull the transmission to drill it.
No offense, but you must not have read too many threads. I know there's dozens of threads that directly relate to your problem, but the consensus of what to do is also in most of those threads.
No offense, but this tad bit helps about as much as all the threads i'v read. Everyone has a different fix, most is replace every single part and cross your fingers. I'm surprised there isn't a sticky with about every car out there with this issue.
Originally Posted by p1bz
Pull the line, drill it put it back. It WILL be fixed, even with stock everything on the car.
Guess i'll be looking into reading this method more. But more opinions would be helpful. Don't feel like doing a lot of bs, and wasting time and money like most people on here with no avail. Car is 8 years old, i should of found one sure fire fix but guess going through 20 pages of threads wasn't enough.
No offense, but this tad bit helps about as much as all the threads i'v read. Everyone has a different fix, most is replace every single part and cross your fingers. I'm surprised there isn't a sticky with about every car out there with this issue.
Guess i'll be looking into reading this method more. But more opinions would be helpful. Don't feel like doing a lot of bs, and wasting time and money like most people on here with no avail. Car is 8 years old, i should of found one sure fire fix but guess going through 20 pages of threads wasn't enough.
I can tell you think you've read all the threads, but it would appear that you couldn't tell the forest for the trees. In other words, solutions to your problem have been in alot of those threads, you're just not able to understand them fully. Sorry, but there's no one way to fix this problem. All the components in your clutch system are a possible source of your problem; the trick is finding out which one. If you take nothing from this reply, please take the last sentence. Good luck.
I can tell you think you've read all the threads, but it would appear that you couldn't tell the forest for the trees. In other words, solutions to your problem have been in alot of those threads, you're just not able to understand them fully. Sorry, but there's no one way to fix this problem. All the components in your clutch system are a possible source of your problem; the trick is finding out which one. If you take nothing from this reply, please take the last sentence. Good luck.
I can tell your not fully understanding the systems issue. End. Please don't reply with anything but valuable information towards the situation.
The guys are a little touchy about search here on the forum. I don't think they mean anything offensive by it.
I had a similiar issue, did the RANGER method (still do to keep things clean), but I removed the clutch spring located on the clutch pedal. It helped A LOT! If you have not done this, try it, it is worth a shot.
Before I removed it...in stop and go traffic, it would get sticky and after a couple of WOT pulls in the lower gears it would stick. I removed the spring and it is a little stiff, but I do not have this problem anymore.
Another thing I do is, keep the clutch dis-engaged at traffic lights. Holding the clutch pedal in is both, tire-some and causes it to get sticky.
OK; BTW you spell it pedal. That's gotta be helpful. Not to mention volatile. You're so stupid, you can't tell when you're being helped. I'm done.
Sorry, Auto-corrected is kinda a pain sometimes.
Your so smart, you've noticed i have spelled my name with 7 letters instead of 8.... it could never be a licensed plate.. NO WAY! You've just blown my mind sir. I think your a productive man/women to this forum. Keep it up!
Originally Posted by mph1972
The guys are a little touchy about search here on the forum. I don't think they mean anything offensive by it.
I had a similiar issue, did the RANGER method (still do to keep things clean), but I removed the clutch spring located on the clutch pedal. It helped A LOT! If you have not done this, try it, it is worth a shot.
Before I removed it...in stop and go traffic, it would get sticky and after a couple of WOT pulls in the lower gears it would stick. I removed the spring and it is a little stiff, but I do not have this problem anymore.
Another thing I do is, keep the clutch dis-engaged at traffic lights. Holding the clutch pedal in is both, tire-some and causes it to get sticky.
Hope these little tips help.
Micah
Thank you very much.
As this spring does seem to allow the peddle to not stick, i think i'm just going to drill the lines out also. Seems like most people end up doing that, same with the f-body guys. I'll do a test run with and without the spring at the drag strip to see if it changed after i do the drill out mod.
I didn't try the "Ranger Method", rather I bled my system completely and it helped a slight bit but basically didn't fix it - still pretty sticky pedal (not peddle). Yesterday I removed the helper spring on the clutch pedal and it seems to have helped further but not completely because my pedal still feels a little weird/sticky when I'm driving the car hard. It's not however sticking down like it had been. If it keeps performing like it is now, I can probably live with it (if I'm just street driving). My guess is it will get worse again and I'll have to try the "Ranger Method".
If I continue to have the problem however, it seems I'm doomed to the big clutch/master cylinder upgrade...big $$.
I didn't try the "Ranger Method", rather I bled my system completely and it helped a slight bit but basically didn't fix it - still pretty sticky pedal (not peddle). Yesterday I removed the helper spring on the clutch pedal and it seems to have helped further but not completely because my pedal still feels a little weird/sticky when I'm driving the car hard. It's not however sticking down like it had been. If it keeps performing like it is now, I can probably live with it (if I'm just street driving). My guess is it will get worse again and I'll have to try the "Ranger Method".
If I continue to have the problem however, it seems I'm doomed to the big clutch/master cylinder upgrade...big $$.
Good luck.
I posted on your thread about the pedal issue you had. Removing the spring helped me out a bit, not a permanent fix, but it was cheap to do...FREE! Not a huge headache either. I typically do the RANGER clutch swap at least once a month, if not more often. It takes a few minutes and it keeps things somewhat cleaner than not doing it at all.
I posted on your thread about the pedal issue you had. Removing the spring helped me out a bit, not a permanent fix, but it was cheap to do...FREE! Not a huge headache either. I typically do the RANGER clutch swap at least once a month, if not more often. It takes a few minutes and it keeps things somewhat cleaner than not doing it at all.
Guys, don't buy anything, just drill the line. That's it, that fixes it. BAM, done. No mas, problemo.
Isn't this basically the same thing as installing a new master (but cheaper)? A Tick master would allow more volume of fluid to move through the system, no?
Some guys claim after a new master install, they still are having problems...is this a situation where the fix simply isn't the same for all people/cars?
Isn't this basically the same thing as installing a new master (but cheaper)? A Tick master would allow more volume of fluid to move through the system, no?
Some guys claim after a new master install, they still are having problems...is this a situation where the fix simply isn't the same for all people/cars?
Could be a driver issue too. Some people are just not good clutch drivers. Not picking or pointing at anyone, just stating that folks can be hard on the clutch and driving conditions (stop and go traffic) can be an issue also.
Isn't this basically the same thing as installing a new master (but cheaper)? A Tick master would allow more volume of fluid to move through the system, no?
Some guys claim after a new master install, they still are having problems...is this a situation where the fix simply isn't the same for all people/cars?
Exactly. The OP seems to be searching for a magic bullet, one item fixes all clutch problem, and it always boils down to be that no one thing works every time. He will no doubt flame me for what seems obvious to most, because it's not the answer he wants.
Exactly. The OP seems to be searching for a magic bullet, one item fixes all clutch problem, and it always boils down to be that no one thing works every time. He will no doubt flame me for what seems obvious to most, because it's not the answer he wants.
There is a magic bullet that fixed sticking clutches. It is a 1/16th drill bit. Guys, I'm not telling you because I'm bored, I'm telling you because that fixes the problem.
The tick master cylinder would be no good without the new line that it comes with. They go ahead and get rid of the restriction for you and sell you a master in the process.