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Very happy with my ACAs/HIDs. I matched my 4300 temp up with similar temp fog lights and I have great road coverage. I kept my highs halogen (Silverstar) because I pretty much use them as flash to pass only.
One suggestion is to keep the headlight bezels off until after you aim your lights. Odds are you will need to aim them and the fogs (if you also upgrade those to HIDs). The OEM Halogens, especially the fogs, are so weak you probably never realized that they weren't aimed correctly. Also, make sure you lube up the golden aiming rods as well as possible before hand.
From: Reno is so close to Hell you can see Sparks , State Of Confusion
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
I am very happy with mine, Install was easy, There is one thing that you have to do and that is to remove a rib from each mounting bracket, If you don't you will run into issues when you go to adjust your lights.
Mr.Bill
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
when you go to remove that one rib Bill is talking about, if you put the bracket in a vise, be real careful not to crack the bracket while you are removing material...ask me how I know about this one! $80 for a replacement.....
Also, when you are all done, aim your beams a little lower than recommended to avoid getting flashed, or even worse, having an oncoming blinded driver come into your lane...had that happen too!
Pull the trigger and don't look back. Take your time with the install, and be carefule with the manual adjustment *****. These can be frozen up over time and made need some penetrating lube to get them to turn. Gently get them turning if they feel stuck, you don't want to break them off. They are the long brass rods which turn to aim the headlights.
Good luck
Just a tip but not necessary. I mounted the ballasts under the headlights against the inner wheel well with the self tapping screws and double sided tape that were provided, however I didn't like the fact the screws were penetrating into the wheel well, and decided to replace them with a threaded stainless screw and nut for a cleaner look. They aren't visible from looking into the wheel well. If you need a beter explanation or don't have the slightest clue what I'm talking about when you get the kit pm me.
Last edited by MG RED 99; Jun 17, 2011 at 09:39 AM.