Clutch install question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Nevada City CA
Clutch install question
Getting ready to replace my clutch. The standard method is to remove and reinstall the dif/tranny/torque tube as a unit. It seems the reinstall is awkward/difficult to say the least. I did read one guy suggested disconnecting the driveshaft from the tranny before reinserting it into the clutch, then reconnect to the tranny.
Anyone tried this method?
Anyone tried this method?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
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From: Belleville Mich.
Scottydog, I would use the method that you described .
Set your p/plate, pilot bearing, clutch, , then t/tube & then the tranny/diff.
Less chance of messing up the p/bearing & easier to align/slide every thing together. Especially if working by yourself.
Good luck.
Set your p/plate, pilot bearing, clutch, , then t/tube & then the tranny/diff.
Less chance of messing up the p/bearing & easier to align/slide every thing together. Especially if working by yourself.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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From: Nevada City CA
I'm going to replace the couplers so yea doing the separate install may be the way to go. Is a coupler swap any big deal, since "I'm gonna be there anyway"?
Last edited by scottydog; Jun 20, 2011 at 04:41 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Rockledge FL
i helped a buddy do the clutch in his z06. it took us 3 days of trying to wrestle the torque tube attached attached to the transmission to make the decision to separate them. The torque tube went in the first time and then it took another 10 minutes to reattach the transmission.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Scottydog, here is a little write up by Steve Doten in regards to replacing those t/tube couplers.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577142882-post1.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1577142882-post1.html
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Nevada City CA
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 539
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From: Nevada City CA
OK moving right along. The cannon is out.
And look what I found. Chad and Tammy Jean of Bowling Green are probably on their 2nd or 3rd child by now...
Now I plan on replacing the couplers. Any tricks to opening the torque tube?
And look what I found. Chad and Tammy Jean of Bowling Green are probably on their 2nd or 3rd child by now...
Now I plan on replacing the couplers. Any tricks to opening the torque tube?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
how did you pull that rear cradle without removing the hard brake lines that run under the axles? 
Big snap ring pliers will get the TT apart
Shifter box still in? you must've been close to those fuel lines?
Only 2 nuts holding that rear cradle to the diff, removing that makes the job easier
Big snap ring pliers will get the TT apart
Shifter box still in? you must've been close to those fuel lines?
Only 2 nuts holding that rear cradle to the diff, removing that makes the job easier
Last edited by SteveDoten; Jun 24, 2011 at 08:13 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 539
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From: Nevada City CA
how did you pull that rear cradle without removing the hard brake lines that run under the axles?
Big snap ring pliers will get the TT apart
Shifter box still in? you must've been close to those fuel lines?
Only 2 nuts holding that rear cradle to the diff, removing that makes the job easier
Big snap ring pliers will get the TT apart
Shifter box still in? you must've been close to those fuel lines?
Only 2 nuts holding that rear cradle to the diff, removing that makes the job easier
I wonder if it's worth going into the TT to replace the couplers. They aren't making any noise, and the vehicle has 68k now.
How would removing the cradle help matters?
One thing that the DIY threads don't mention much is the importance of getting the engine and the TT as level as possible before removing and reinstall. I had to adjust the jacks to do this, plus adjusting the engine height etc.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
take a flat screwdriver and hit the axle near the seal, of course be sure to be on the outer part of the seal(the outer is the steal part, won't damage)
this 'pops' the axle out of the diff, retainer rings just need a nudge
no brake bleed needed
I drop the cradle prior to pulling the TT/trans/diff, allows me to better control the assy and keep less weight off input shaft
If you have questions give me a call during daylight hours Sat.
this 'pops' the axle out of the diff, retainer rings just need a nudge
no brake bleed needed
I drop the cradle prior to pulling the TT/trans/diff, allows me to better control the assy and keep less weight off input shaft
If you have questions give me a call during daylight hours Sat.
Thread Starter
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From: Nevada City CA
Steve I was able by yanking on the UCA to pop the axles half out of the dif, but couldn't figure out how to get enough clearance to get the shafts fully out. I thought pulling the brakes, rotors etc was too much of a PIA.
All this for a clutch...
All this for a clutch...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
I do the same UCA's, pull the 2 nuts on the diff and remove cradle with axles, L/UCA's and knuckles
