Pull Key and Wait 10 seconds
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 281
Likes: 1
From: Springfield MO
Pull Key and Wait 10 seconds
OK, I posted earlier about the battery maybe being the cause of a gremlin. Took the battery out of the car and took it to the shop. They say there is nothing wrong with the battery.
No moisture in the passenger floorboard.
This has only started in the last couple of weeks since I have been driving it daily.
It does not do it every time. Today I started it and drove it eight times and it gave me the pull key twice. Yesterday it did not do it at all.
03 manual with less then 18000 miles.
What else can I be checking?
Greg
No moisture in the passenger floorboard.
This has only started in the last couple of weeks since I have been driving it daily.
It does not do it every time. Today I started it and drove it eight times and it gave me the pull key twice. Yesterday it did not do it at all.
03 manual with less then 18000 miles.
What else can I be checking?
Greg
Instructor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
This happened to my car last week as well. First time it has ever happened. Are you sure it is a car battery issue? I was thinking that it may be a security/fob problem. My fob has been acting up lately. When passive is turned to off it would lock and unlock the car randomly. It has a new battery in it so that's not the issue. I took the fob apart and noticed the battery wasn't pushed all the way in. Mine has not done it since.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 99
From: Southeast, Tennessee
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
it may not be even though that IS the most common cause. if you are covering the "chip" with your finger when you put the key in the ignition switch and turn it, it might happen. in addition, perhaps there is something on the chip itself, hindering the "read range". i had it happen to me shortly after i bought my 04 CE convertible when i had some exhaust work done on it. they backed it out of the garage, and told me it was done (they left the key in the ignition and turned it off). when i got in it, i got the same remove 10 second message. needless to say, i was pissed, and of course i didn't wait the 10 seconds, etc and tried to start it up again. it started and of course immediately stalled out. i pulled the key, waited for what i figured was at least 10 seconds and never had the problem again. (to top it off, i knew that the column lock bypass had already been performed, so i was really initially pissed, lol).
Instructor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
it may not be even though that IS the most common cause. if you are covering the "chip" with your finger when you put the key in the ignition switch and turn it, it might happen. in addition, perhaps there is something on the chip itself, hindering the "read range". i had it happen to me shortly after i bought my 04 CE convertible when i had some exhaust work done on it. they backed it out of the garage, and told me it was done (they left the key in the ignition and turned it off). when i got in it, i got the same remove 10 second message. needless to say, i was pissed, and of course i didn't wait the 10 seconds, etc and tried to start it up again. it started and of course immediately stalled out. i pulled the key, waited for what i figured was at least 10 seconds and never had the problem again. (to top it off, i knew that the column lock bypass had already been performed, so i was really initially pissed, lol).
The key being left in the ignition was the reason you got the "Pull Key.... " message. You can test that your self.
The column lock electronics keeps "state" of the column. When you remove the key from the ignition the BCM senses that and sends a LOCK signal to the lock motor (or CLB if you have that installed) and waits for the "completed" back from the lock motor (or CLB) to keep that state of the column lock correct. If you leave the key in the ignition when you turn the engine off, the State remains as UNLOCKED. When you go to start the car with the key still in the ignition the BCM is unsure of the state of the column lock (it should not be unlocked when you try to start the car) and puts up the "Pull Key.." message. If you remove the key that results in the BCM resync'ing the state that it keeps. If you don't you will encounter the fuel shutoff which you DID.
Try it again and see........
The column lock electronics keeps "state" of the column. When you remove the key from the ignition the BCM senses that and sends a LOCK signal to the lock motor (or CLB if you have that installed) and waits for the "completed" back from the lock motor (or CLB) to keep that state of the column lock correct. If you leave the key in the ignition when you turn the engine off, the State remains as UNLOCKED. When you go to start the car with the key still in the ignition the BCM is unsure of the state of the column lock (it should not be unlocked when you try to start the car) and puts up the "Pull Key.." message. If you remove the key that results in the BCM resync'ing the state that it keeps. If you don't you will encounter the fuel shutoff which you DID.
Try it again and see........
This makes sense in my case then. It happened when I got an inspection done. The tech went to back out of the bay and said this message appeared. I guess he left the key in the ignition. I feel a lot better now
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 281
Likes: 1
From: Springfield MO
Did you have the battery load tested? What is the AMP rating on the load test and what was the voltage??????
Yes on the load test, not sure on the AMP rating, I will call them or take it back up there. My meter said it was 12.2.
Most common cause of the symptoms that you are experiencing is a low or bad battery (common this time of year with the heat taking its toll on battery's) or loose or corroded battery cables.
Check the battery using a DMM directly across the battery posts with the Neg battery cable disconnected. If it is not greater than 12.5 you need to fully charge the battery. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or greater. If yours is at 12.5 or less the column lock electronics will not function properly although you can start the car with as little as 12.2 volts. Dash guage measurements cannot tell you the state of health of the battery so ignore those readings. Use a DMM as I indicated above.
If you are unable to charge the battery to 12.7 volts it is time for a replacement.....
Yes on the load test, not sure on the AMP rating, I will call them or take it back up there. My meter said it was 12.2.
Most common cause of the symptoms that you are experiencing is a low or bad battery (common this time of year with the heat taking its toll on battery's) or loose or corroded battery cables.
Check the battery using a DMM directly across the battery posts with the Neg battery cable disconnected. If it is not greater than 12.5 you need to fully charge the battery. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or greater. If yours is at 12.5 or less the column lock electronics will not function properly although you can start the car with as little as 12.2 volts. Dash guage measurements cannot tell you the state of health of the battery so ignore those readings. Use a DMM as I indicated above.
If you are unable to charge the battery to 12.7 volts it is time for a replacement.....
I will try the other key. Just have one key. All connections are clean and tight. I think I will quit using the FOB. I just started using it recently and maybe it could be causing a problem?
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 14,358
Likes: 1
From: Medford NJ
Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 511
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
I was getting the PULL KEY WAIT s##t all the time,,, I had the tuner set the fuel shut off to 256 mph, 3 weeks gone by and not once have I seen it ( knock on wood ) ... does you car cut off when you try to drive it??? if not your ok, I use to disconnect neg. battery cable and wait 10 min. recconect and go... Pain in thee a$$...but now I have no problems.Thanks to the CF guys sharing info and my tuner..good luck and wish I could help you more..
Never has my steering locked on me..
Never has my steering locked on me..
Last edited by Ole Blaster; Jul 22, 2011 at 02:20 PM. Reason: forgot something
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Life moves pretty fast... if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it!
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Zuti
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 83
From: . New York
Just a quick PSA and opinion for those who may not have been here reading for a few years; this topic comes up a lot and while it may be a little arcane to the uninitiated its pretty straight forward.
In fact, it comes up enough that over time you see people who have what could be considered a complete understanding of the systems involved and very sound experience in quickly diagnosing and solving the problem. We're fortunate that they take the time to answer when it comes up.
8vette7 is one of those people on this issue.
In fact, it comes up enough that over time you see people who have what could be considered a complete understanding of the systems involved and very sound experience in quickly diagnosing and solving the problem. We're fortunate that they take the time to answer when it comes up.
8vette7 is one of those people on this issue.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 14,358
Likes: 1
From: Medford NJ
I did the CLB on my last car because I had heard too many stories of people getting the recall done and the prblem coming back. Current car has had in "tuned" out and thus far (knock on wood) no problems.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 281
Likes: 1
From: Springfield MO
Took the car back to Orielly's. Had them test the battery again. He said it was a load test and that the battery is perfect. 12.65 volts with the battery in the car hooked up.
FOB is not a passive version so I guess it's not that?
I think I will get a hold of the dealership and see what fix was done..
Any thoughts?
FOB is not a passive version so I guess it's not that?
I think I will get a hold of the dealership and see what fix was done..
Any thoughts?
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Had a similar problem but it was the contacts on the chip. They were not making a good connection and would cause the problem. Had to get a new key made. Worked for a while until all the tumblers in the ignition switch got misaligned and nothing worked. They said I had too many keys on my key chain and it could not handle the weight. On had a house key, car key and FOB.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 281
Likes: 1
From: Springfield MO
Not likely that who ever did the Recall service put which variation was done into the GMVIS report but you can ask or get a copy of the GMVIS and look for yourself. Usually you have to back into the answer. One clue is the date that the recall service was done. 04006 came out in Jan 2004. 04006A came out in Aug 2004. 04006B came out in Nov 2004. 04006C did not come out until Feb 2006.
From those dates and assuming that the dealer did the most current variation of the recall service available (not necessarily a valid assumption) and further assuming they did the service correctly and if there was no previous owner of the vehicle that may have attempted to correct column lock problems after the recall service on their own, you can guesstimate what has been done to the car. ie no guaranees.........
From those dates and assuming that the dealer did the most current variation of the recall service available (not necessarily a valid assumption) and further assuming they did the service correctly and if there was no previous owner of the vehicle that may have attempted to correct column lock problems after the recall service on their own, you can guesstimate what has been done to the car. ie no guaranees.........
The car does die at 2mph and says pull key and wait 10 seconds, it does not do it all the time. The steering wheel has never locked nor does it give the steering wheel warning.
So, do I remove the Harness and install a column lock bypass or install a column lock bypass with the harness in place?
OR
A6 If you get the "Pull Key and Wait 10 Seconds" message but no "Service Column Lock" message, it can sometimes be a symptom of your security system and related to your key pellet. (found this info from antoher post)
Thanks for helping me work this problem.
Greg
Last edited by gwalker; Jul 24, 2011 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Found more information
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 281
Likes: 1
From: Springfield MO
Disconnect BOTH ends of the GM K Harness and put the Male connector of the CLB into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash!!
If you connect the CLB to the female connector of the K Harness it will NOT work correctly.
I still recommend you measure the battery voltage with the Neg battery cable disconnected. The column lock symptoms nearly ALWAYS start with a low or bad battery or loose or corroded battery cables. The components don't fail unless there is a starting cause and the battery is that cause.
If you connect the CLB to the female connector of the K Harness it will NOT work correctly.
I still recommend you measure the battery voltage with the Neg battery cable disconnected. The column lock symptoms nearly ALWAYS start with a low or bad battery or loose or corroded battery cables. The components don't fail unless there is a starting cause and the battery is that cause.
Also, any legs to the answer 6 that I posted about the pellet?
Thanks again.
Greg
